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Henryat1140
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-- 11-05-2011 @ 3:31 PM
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I'm getting ready to have the transmission inspected for refurbish and repair. 1936 Car totaly stock.
I've not done this in years, and have a couple of questions:
1. Is it better to leave the rear wheels on so the rear can be moved back while still on the tires? Or is it better to remove the wheels and let it 'skid' back on the brake drums?
2. About how far do I have to move the rear back to have enough room to remove the transmission? Reason For asking is, I may have a slight clearance problem with the garage door at the rear of the car I'd like to leave the car on the jack stands in place with the rear pulled back while the trans is off being looked at.
3. I'll be working over a pit, and will have the option of pulling the trans out through the top or down out the bottom. Is there a strong reason to do it one way or the other?
I may have couple more questions but for now, could you guys help me out with these.
Thanks in advance
Henry
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kubes40
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-- 11-05-2011 @ 4:49 PM
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There's no reason you need to roll the rear assembly back more than 6" or so. I like to leave the
tires / rims on and simply roll the entire unit back.
I am not certain on a 36 but on a 39 & 40 the transmission must come out of the top.
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Stroker
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-- 11-05-2011 @ 5:06 PM
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For most of my life, I've had access to a pit. If I were pulling a trans today, even with a pit, I'd opt for lifting it up and out simply because it is so much easier to lift it by the shift lever, than it is to hold it over your head in a pit. The exception would be if you have some sort of transmission jack on a rolling stand in the pit. The nice thing about EV8 transmissions is that they are very light. I've pulled big, heavy Fuller 10-speeds out the top as well, with come-a-long hooked to a beam installed through the window openings. I think it is safer to lift up, than to be underneath unless you have a transmission jack.
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ford38v8
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-- 11-05-2011 @ 6:07 PM
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Henry, I agree, remove it from the top. I don't agree about leaving the shift tower on. With the tranny drained, the open top covered with rags, you have a lighter, more compact package to deal with. Do not fail to protect your interior against stains.
I like my wheels off, as with them off, you have more options of differfential placement after removal. Safety can be an issue also, as the wheels would still be within the wheelwells.
Alan
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flatheadfan
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-- 11-06-2011 @ 2:51 AM
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Henry-
The rear bearing retainer/mount of a '36 transmission sets on two frame-mounted platforms. As a result, there is no way the transmission can be removed from below.
Second, I like to leave the wheels on as it allows for easier in and out of the torque tube assembly and makes reassembly alignment easier.
Finally, in order to get the torque assembly back enough to clear the u-joint you will need to remove a some floorpan bolts and wedge a couple pieces of wood between the floor pan and the frame. This probably makes no sense now but you will see what I am referring to when you attempt to pull the torque tube assembly back enough to remove the transmission. You will find the floor pan will prevent the torque tube assembly from moving back!
Hope this helps.
Tom
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supereal
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-- 11-06-2011 @ 10:09 AM
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When we pull a rear end, we place the frame on jack stands, put a floor jack under the center of the axle, raise it, and remove the wheels. This allows us to pull the axle with greater clearance by then lowering it enough to clear, and rolling it back on the jack. This doesn't apply to working over a pit, of course, but few, if any, of us have that situation. To reinstall the axle, simply reverse this process.
This message was edited by supereal on 11-6-11 @ 10:10 AM
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Billc
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-- 11-06-2011 @ 12:53 PM
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I have never done this before but it is in my future. I have a 36 pickup, are there any differences between that and a car? Tom, you talk about wedging the floor pan up, is the seat stand in the pickup in the way too? I don't think it moves at all.
Bill
36 pickup 47 COE
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flatheadfan
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-- 11-07-2011 @ 5:33 AM
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Billc-
I can't speak directly about the truck situation but for cars the "wedging" is done in front of the seat/seat frame.
Tom
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v8teditor
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-- 11-07-2011 @ 8:12 AM
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It's been awhile, like 20+ years and my memory ain't what it once was, but I also believe one has to place a jack or other support under the engine as the engine/tranny are ONE unit when in the car. Engine/tranny supported from front of engine and rear of tranny. To remove tranny one has to unbolt it from the engine as well as the drive shaft for removal. I agree with the removal from the top.
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Stroker
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-- 11-07-2011 @ 8:44 AM
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V8teditor:
Glad you brought that up. Some of us just "assume". I like to pad the oil pan with a
2x6 block to prevent the jack from denting the pan as well.
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TomO
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-- 11-07-2011 @ 9:33 AM
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I remove the wheels. I disconnect the spring from the U-bolts and lower the rear end with my floor jack until the spring can clear the frame and gas tank, then pull it back with the floor jack. Leaving the wheels on, would mean raising the car higher than my jack stands can safely support the car.
Tom
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supereal
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-- 11-07-2011 @ 4:21 PM
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The frame prevents pulling the transmission from below on old Fords. I learned a trick long ago to make the job easier for one man. We used a large metal hook, much like a bale hook, for my fellow old timers, with your floorboards out, the seat back, and your legs straddling the transmission, you place the hook in the inspection hole, and yank it back and up. The same tool helps you lower the box into place so you can push it home into the clutch disk and pilot bearing. For first timers, be sure you have the clutch disk centered in the pressure plate with the proper tool, if you change the clutch, a recommended item while you have the transmission out. Be sure to support the rear of the engine with a jack and block because the rear mounts will be removed.
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Henryat1140
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-- 11-08-2011 @ 5:21 AM
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Thanks so much for all the suggestions and support. It's Tuesday morning and we are going to do the deed today. JMSedan and another buddy will be here. I'll report on how it went.
Thanks Again,
Henry
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Henryat1140
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-- 11-09-2011 @ 7:22 PM
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Wednesday morning.
We got the car apart, didn't break anything. JMSedan was the brains and a friend of mine who is strong was the muscle.
I don't know if it was the angle or what, but we didn't need to raise the floorpan, the rear slid back about 6-8" and we had enough clearance.
We did remove the rear transmission mount because doing so allowed a lesser angle on the rear of the transmission, thus putting less strain on the front motor mounts.
We used a rope sling and lifted it out from above, after moving the convertible top back halfway.
I now have a number of small tasks to do before re-assembly and will be hitting you guys with a few more requests for guidance.
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JM
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-- 11-09-2011 @ 9:26 PM
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Henry, You should be more careful about who you let work on your nice '36 Ford Phaeton. Those two guys look like recent escapees from the Harford Co. Detention Center who have recently been caught posing as Early Ford V8 mechanics. They would probably do most anything to get a free lunch!!  LOL
JM
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Henryat1140
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-- 11-10-2011 @ 6:43 AM
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Wonder if that's the reason my snap-on tools are missing?
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