LOGIN
  • Post to the EFV-8 Forum
  • Post Classified Ads
  • Shop the Online Store
User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!



(Forgot your Password?)
Remember me on this computer

Not registered yet?
REGISTER NOW!

Back to Home Page Show Forum Rules

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

  1. All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
  2. You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
  3. Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
  4. Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
  5. No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
  6. No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
  7. VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
  8. EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

    http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

    Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
  9. HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 38 Spring Reinstallation

   Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: 38 Spring Reinstallation

Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts first

supereal
11-01-2011 @ 8:07 PM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Chasers are specialized tools, much like a die, but don't recut the threads. Remove any paint, etc, from the threads and carefully use a regular die to clear them. The size and pitch of the threads will not be damaged if the die isn't forced. The chances are that when you reach the portion that formerly held the nuts, little effort will be required.

john38coupe
11-01-2011 @ 7:55 PM
New Member
Posts: 130
Joined: Jan 2011
          
Can I purchase a "true chaser" at a hardware store, Sears or Harbor Freight?

parrish
11-01-2011 @ 7:28 PM
Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009
          
You might consider using a true chaser when "chasing the threads", as tapping with a die will weaken the original threads.

parrish
11-01-2011 @ 7:26 PM
Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009
          
You might consider using a true chaser when "chasing the threads", as cleaning with a die will weaken the original threads.

This message was edited by parrish on 11-1-11 @ 7:27 PM

john38coupe
11-01-2011 @ 7:19 PM
New Member
Posts: 130
Joined: Jan 2011
          
I disassembled the spring leaves, blasted lightly and painted each leaf. That is the only change from what I took out. I'm thinking possibly the U-bolt threads and nuts should be run through a tap and die to clean up and retry. Also, I was using a 10 inch rachette (1/2 inch drive)to tighten the u-bolt nuts which I assumed was adquate enough. I wouldn't think the paint would be making the difference so I will try as you suggest to clean up the threads and give it a second try. I assume spreading the spring, hooking up the shackle bars is the first step then address the U-bolts is the correct procedure. Thanks, first time dealing with springs

kubes40
11-01-2011 @ 5:04 PM
Senior
Posts: 3408
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I have installed more springs than I can recall. What i CAN recall is the fact I have never had the trouble you are describing. I have installed NOS springs in both bare chassis and complete cars with NO trouble. I must ask, the springs you are installing, are they the EXACT ones you removed? If so, did you place spring liners between the leaves?
If you are installing the springs you removed without any change to the width, I'd suggest your problem is with the threads as Super advised.
As you already have the spring attached at the perches, placing weight on the chassis will make no difference.

37 Coupe
11-01-2011 @ 1:45 PM
Member
Posts: 362
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Did this the last time about 10 years ago,found out same thing wait until body and engine weight are in place and tag or make sure you remember to go back and do this. Also this I found out may be one of the most hurtfull stresses on the body,not on the U-bolts as much as on the nuts and I don't mean the Ford ones.Next day I was getting schedule for hernia surgery. It is a tough job to do,position wise on the body.

supereal
11-01-2011 @ 10:15 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The U-bolts that hold the springs to the cross member should have clean threads, with no damage from the clip. If there is damage, the threads should be chased with a die, or the U-bolts replaced. New nuts are available. The old pad between the frame and the spring is probably compressed from years of use, and I'd use new ones. The heads of the tie bolts (center of the spring) must be in the hole provided in the cross members as the U-bolts are tightened. A jack under the center of the axle will help keep the spring in place, and assist in tightening the bolts. Just be sure that the jack stands remain in place for safety.

alanwoodieman
11-01-2011 @ 6:19 AM
Senior
Posts: 868
Joined: Oct 2009
          
you will need to wait until the body/engine are installed, makes it easier and safer-less strain on the u-bolts

john38coupe
11-01-2011 @ 5:07 AM
New Member
Posts: 130
Joined: Jan 2011
          
After a complete chassis restoration, I'm reinstalling the front and rear springs. The frame is setting on jack stands in garage and I've used a spreader bar to install the shackle bars to both spring and perch....no problem. I have taken the springs to a spring shop to press and install the tie bolt so I know the leaves are tight. My problem is when cranking the U-bolt nuts, they are cranking hard and I still have a ways to go before I can get a cotter pin in. I'm scared of stripping the nut or U-bolt. Should I wait till the body weight is on the frame to complete U-bolt installation or am I doing something wrong. I even used the old spring pads as new ones are so thick. They came out easy, so I just assumed they would go back the same way.

<< previous || next >> 


NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.


EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1