| john38coupe | -- 11-01-2011 @ 5:07 AM |
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After a complete chassis restoration, I'm reinstalling the front and rear springs. The frame is setting on jack stands in garage and I've used a spreader bar to install the shackle bars to both spring and perch....no problem. I have taken the springs to a spring shop to press and install the tie bolt so I know the leaves are tight. My problem is when cranking the U-bolt nuts, they are cranking hard and I still have a ways to go before I can get a cotter pin in. I'm scared of stripping the nut or U-bolt. Should I wait till the body weight is on the frame to complete U-bolt installation or am I doing something wrong. I even used the old spring pads as new ones are so thick. They came out easy, so I just assumed they would go back the same way.
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| alanwoodieman | -- 11-01-2011 @ 6:19 AM |
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you will need to wait until the body/engine are installed, makes it easier and safer-less strain on the u-bolts
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| supereal | -- 11-01-2011 @ 10:15 AM |
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The U-bolts that hold the springs to the cross member should have clean threads, with no damage from the clip. If there is damage, the threads should be chased with a die, or the U-bolts replaced. New nuts are available. The old pad between the frame and the spring is probably compressed from years of use, and I'd use new ones. The heads of the tie bolts (center of the spring) must be in the hole provided in the cross members as the U-bolts are tightened. A jack under the center of the axle will help keep the spring in place, and assist in tightening the bolts. Just be sure that the jack stands remain in place for safety.
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| 37 Coupe | -- 11-01-2011 @ 1:45 PM |
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Did this the last time about 10 years ago,found out same thing wait until body and engine weight are in place and tag or make sure you remember to go back and do this. Also this I found out may be one of the most hurtfull stresses on the body,not on the U-bolts as much as on the nuts and I don't mean the Ford ones.Next day I was getting schedule for hernia surgery. It is a tough job to do,position wise on the body.
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| kubes40 | -- 11-01-2011 @ 5:04 PM |
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I have installed more springs than I can recall. What i CAN recall is the fact I have never had the trouble you are describing. I have installed NOS springs in both bare chassis and complete cars with NO trouble. I must ask, the springs you are installing, are they the EXACT ones you removed? If so, did you place spring liners between the leaves? If you are installing the springs you removed without any change to the width, I'd suggest your problem is with the threads as Super advised. As you already have the spring attached at the perches, placing weight on the chassis will make no difference.
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| john38coupe | -- 11-01-2011 @ 7:19 PM |
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I disassembled the spring leaves, blasted lightly and painted each leaf. That is the only change from what I took out. I'm thinking possibly the U-bolt threads and nuts should be run through a tap and die to clean up and retry. Also, I was using a 10 inch rachette (1/2 inch drive)to tighten the u-bolt nuts which I assumed was adquate enough. I wouldn't think the paint would be making the difference so I will try as you suggest to clean up the threads and give it a second try. I assume spreading the spring, hooking up the shackle bars is the first step then address the U-bolts is the correct procedure. Thanks, first time dealing with springs
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| parrish | -- 11-01-2011 @ 7:26 PM |
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You might consider using a true chaser when "chasing the threads", as cleaning with a die will weaken the original threads. This message was edited by parrish on 11-1-11 @ 7:27 PM
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| parrish | -- 11-01-2011 @ 7:28 PM |
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You might consider using a true chaser when "chasing the threads", as tapping with a die will weaken the original threads.
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| john38coupe | -- 11-01-2011 @ 7:55 PM |
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Can I purchase a "true chaser" at a hardware store, Sears or Harbor Freight?
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| supereal | -- 11-01-2011 @ 8:07 PM |
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Chasers are specialized tools, much like a die, but don't recut the threads. Remove any paint, etc, from the threads and carefully use a regular die to clear them. The size and pitch of the threads will not be damaged if the die isn't forced. The chances are that when you reach the portion that formerly held the nuts, little effort will be required.
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