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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / high oil pressure - 37 85hp

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Posted By Discussion Topic: high oil pressure - 37 85hp -- page: 1 2     supereal 05-03-2012 @ 10:07 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The "new" water pumps sold by major vendors don't require oiling via a passage from the timing gear cover. They have sealed bearings. As said above, don't worry about oil presure until you have checked it with a mechanical gauge. That will tell you if the problem is a failing sender, wiring, or the gauge, itself. TomO 05-03-2012 @ 8:26 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Tev, First of all are you sure that your oil pressure is high? Have you measured it with a mechanical gauge? If the passages from the oil gallery to the water pumps are plugged, it should not raise the oil pressure. The oil pressure relief valve should control the pressure. The only way that you can be certain that the water pump bushings are getting enough oil is to remove the pumps and check for oil in the passage. I have found that after a while, pumps rebuilt by Skip will spatter the frame and engine compartment with oil. If you are a member of the V-8 Club, look in your Roster for a member near you. They may be able to discuss your issues or direct you to someone that can. If you are not a member, you can join for as little as $15 with the Roster and NO V-8 Times. Tom Tev 05-02-2012 @ 3:41 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 24 Joined: Nov 2009 supereal, thanks again. this is not the smoking issue - that cleared up. my father laughed at me when I asked about high oil pressure - he said they were always trying to get pressure up on old flatheads. I have other questions, but the one I'm wondering most about is if the rebuilt skip haney pumps aren't getting oil, would that make the pressure higher post-install? the haney instructions call for making sure air passes through the water pump oil passage before installing his pump by blowing into the fuel pump oil insert (as I recall). I don't think we did that when we installed the pumps. easier said than written. supereal 05-02-2012 @ 2:17 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The usual reason for the appearance of blue smoke in the exhaust is overfilling the oil pan. I know the books say 5 quarts, but without an oil filter, the correct fill is 4 quarts. Most 85 HP engines don't have a filter. If you didn't change the oil pump, or the sender, the pressure is likely just a coincidence. Most old Ford owners worry about low oil pressure. I'd just drive it after checking the oil level in the pan. It is very likely the problem will go away. Tev 05-02-2012 @ 10:51 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 24 Joined: Nov 2009 I'm wondering if anyone would be willing to talk on the phone about some issues with my 37? It's so much easier to quickly talk through things on the phone. I'm also located in Austin, so if any central Texas flathead owners would like to talk or swing by I'd appreciate it. Just send me a PM or email at: tevickery@gmail.com. Tev 09-04-2011 @ 12:52 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 24 Joined: Nov 2009 Thanks Tom. Will do. TomO 09-03-2011 @ 7:07 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Tev, the oil pressure relief valve on a 37 V-8 is under the intake manifold at the front of the engine. There is no need to pull the pan to replace it. Check the wiring going to the oil pressure sending unit, if it is grounded the dash unit will read over 50#. Jacking the engine may have moved the wire to where it is grounded. Borrow or buy a mechanical pressure gauge to get an accurate reading of the oi pressure. Once you know how your dash gauge and sending unit reacts, you can use it to determine if your oil pressure is within normal range. Tom Tev 09-01-2011 @ 8:12 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 24 Joined: Nov 2009 The minor work was just cleaning and repainting one head, swapping old junky looking spark plug wires for correct ones from Macs, and installing new motor mounts (front and rear). The header pipes and exhaust manifold were left on. Now, the front of the engine was jacked up a bit with the rear left in place - maybe that's it. Since 40 Coupe and MG both say there's no harm in running it to see if the pressure comes down, I'll do that and report back. I'm a novice with these cars. I love original equipment, but I'm afraid of doing damage due to ignorance. Thanks and more after I run it a bit this weekned. Tev 09-01-2011 @ 4:47 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 24 Joined: Nov 2009 The minor work was just cleaning and repainting one head, swapping old junky looking spark plug wires for correct ones from Macs, and installing new motor mounts (front and rear). The header pipes and exhaust manifold were left on. Now, the front of the engine was jacked up a bit with the rear left in place - maybe that's it. Since 40 Coupe and MG both say there's no harm in running it to see if the pressure comes down, I'll do that and report back. I'm a novice with these cars. I love original equipment, but I'm afraid of doing damage due to ignorance. Thanks and more after I run it a bit this weekned. MG 09-01-2011 @ 3:58 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1254 Joined: Nov 2009 Tev, You said you did some "minor work" in your opening post. What minor work did you do? When you removed the water pumps and the radiator, was the car/engine jacked at a radical angle? Did you disconnect the header pipes or exhaust manifold while working on the car? If you haven't, I'm thinking you might want to drive the car for awhile to see if it corrects itself before pulling the pan. This message was edited by MG on 9-1-11 @ 10:15 PM

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