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Posted By Discussion Topic: Frame paint -- page: 1 2     gmcbuffalo 07-20-2011 @ 12:43 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 72 Joined: Jul 2011 I'm cleaning up the frame on my 35-3window coupe and notice the frame under the chassis is green. What was the original color of the frame? The car was painted Vintage green. I was going to paint it with either a 2 part epoxy or acrylic, but should it be green, or black semi gloss or black gloss paint? Tx trjford8 07-20-2011 @ 7:55 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4236 Joined: Oct 2009 It should be "chassis black" which is a semi-gloss black. supereal 07-20-2011 @ 1:13 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Whichever type of top coat you select, be sure to apply primer after you have throughly cleaned the frame of dirt, grease, and rust. We usually use an iron oxide primer such as that made by Rustoleum. Another product is Eastwood's "Rust Encapsulator". Old frames are almost always rusted, often in places hard to reach. An aerosol can, along with brush-on paint makes the job easier. The Eastwood site is www.eastwood.com They also sell the correct "chassis black". ford38v8 07-20-2011 @ 7:59 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2788 Joined: Oct 2009 Tx, I disagree with Bob regarding Rustoleum. I wouldn't put that stuff on my garbage can, let alone my V8. Start, as Bob advises, by a thorough cleaning of dirt and grease. Remove rust scale also, but stop there, do not clean to bright shiny steel. Wash with plain water, let dry for several days, to allow any bare areas to acquire surface rust. Rustmort, a product available at any paint store, thrives on rust! It chemically changes rust into iron oxide, after which, apply the paint of your choice, which in this case should be Eastwood Chassis Black. Your plan to epoxy paint your frame may result in over-restoration, which is not the currently popular way to go. Frames were sprayed quickly, many times leaving bare spots, and were sometimes spot sprayed again on the assembly line. The EFV8CA has always, and now also some other clubs follow suit, in frowning on over-restoration by subtracting points when these cars show up to be point judged on the Concourse. Alan supereal 07-20-2011 @ 8:22 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I don't have much love of Rustoleum, eitherr, Alan. The iron oxide primer is the only product we use, in most cases. Their topcoats tend to "lift". I mentioned that primer, as not everyone wants to pay for more effective products , such as Eastwood. That is why I mentioned it. There seems to be some interest in powder coating frames today, but most l've seen have not been impressive, or durable, because it is virtually impossible to reach all parts to get them really clean. Any unremoved dirt or rust will usually pop in the oven, making it look as if it was painted in a sandstorm. And, of course, it does result in the dreaded "over restoration". This message was edited by supereal on 7-20-11 @ 8:29 PM gmcbuffalo 07-20-2011 @ 10:48 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 72 Joined: Jul 2011 Thanks guys I will follow your leads on this. I have been wire wheeling the rust and then painting with Ophos or Phosphoric acid. I will get some Eastmans paint. There is a Sherman Williams auto paint store close to me would their products be OK? Greg ford38v8 07-20-2011 @ 11:41 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2788 Joined: Oct 2009 Bob, I'm glad We're back on track again, I was concerned! We should make something clear regarding rust before we are shouted down by others: Rust is just not a good thing to find on any hunk of iron, even a C###y.If you can get at it, get rid of it, but the thing about rust is that it seeks the tight spots, the seams, the most inaccessible places. You just have to do the best you can to get rid of it, and rely on chemical tools to do what you can't do. Rustmort, and dozens of other similar products, have as a not so secret ingredient, Phosphoric Acid. This watery liquid saturates rust and chemically converts it to iron oxide. Excess product is left on the iron as Phosphate, ready and able to prevent future rust. Auto bodies used to be dipped in a phosphate solution and would come out a ghostly grey. They would be referred to at that point as being "in the white". These same car bodies years later are sometimes dipped to strip old paint, Problem is, the dip strips out phosphate from seams that had previously protected the bodies, leaving them unprotected. If encapsulated, these seams will be just fine, but difficult to protect as well as they had been prior to the dipping. Not the end of story, though, as both iron oxide and phosphate need a topcoat to permanently exclude oxygen, the mother of rust. Alan supereal 07-21-2011 @ 5:09 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Alan: I don't think we have been off the track, unless the virtues of mayonaisse vs. Miracle Whip are considered. I think the earlier advice regarding forming a goal as to how high the caliber of the "restoration" should be was right on the money, no pun intended. It seems many well intended projects lie abandoned because expectations were too high, or the amount of resources available were insufficient. In my experience over the years, I learned that regardless of what we expected, surprises, not all pleasant, arise. Old cars as a hobby can be a wonderful thing, and often the most frustrating in the world. On that, I'm sure we all agree! 51f1 07-21-2011 @ 6:33 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 573 Joined: Oct 2009 You have to be careful with Rustoleum products as many of them use fish oil and automotive paints don't stick to oils very well. However, some Rustolueum products are compatible with automotive paints. Just check to be sure. My 2 cents worth: I used POR 15. It's very good if it is applied properly, and you use 2 coats. Top it with their chassis coat black. I never had much luck with Eastwood paints. Richard TomO 07-21-2011 @ 6:52 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7271 Joined: Oct 2009 Alan, epoxy paint does not have to have the "wet" look or high gloss associated with 2 part paints. It can be mixed to give a semi-gloss sheen and is more resistant to abrasion then Eastwood's chassis paint. Rustolem primers can give problems with any other manufacturers top coat, even years after they have been applied. I found out this the hard way. Tom

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