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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Frame paint

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Frame paint -- page: 1 2     gmcbuffalo 08-02-2011 @ 11:48 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 72 Joined: Jul 2011 Thanks for your help Greg Meiling 1935 3 Window Coupe ford38v8 08-02-2011 @ 9:47 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2788 Joined: Oct 2009 Greg, Your frame is not a single piece of iron, but rather, is multiple pieces, riveted and welded together. There is no sandblaster in the world that can access all the nooks and crannies of your frame. Phospho and similar coatings are water thin, able to penetrate by capillary attraction, something no paint can do. You have a good product there, it being perfect for penetration, and first defense against surface rust which is going on while we play on the computer tonight. Rust is not a good base for paint, but Phosphoric acid is, as also is iron oxide, the result of using Phospho. Alan gmcbuffalo 08-02-2011 @ 9:19 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 72 Joined: Jul 2011 There was a NW chapter of model A club here in Wilsonville, OR. I look and talked many could not understand why I was using OSPHO. Am I doing the right thing OSPHO light scrub and then paint? Greg Meiling 1935 3 Window Coupe ford38v8 08-02-2011 @ 8:37 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2788 Joined: Oct 2009 Tex, the correct degree of gloss is known today as "semi-gloss black". The gloss black your book referred to may have bee the drivetrain components after the transmission, wishbones, shocks, and other parts added to the chassis. M-1713-D Air Dry Chassis Black Enamel or M-660 Chassis Black Pyroxylin, the two different paints used on the frames themselves, were both Semi-Gloss Black. Alan supereal 08-02-2011 @ 7:57 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I don't have much appreciation for Rust O Leum, either, but my experience with POR isn't any better on rusty metal, which is much more expensive. Almost all all of it has peeled off eventually, in spite of careful application, and it is really expensive, to say the least. It is always best to topcoat with the same brand of paint as the primer, in any case. gmcbuffalo 08-02-2011 @ 7:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 72 Joined: Jul 2011 Ok I got the frame back from the media blaster and blow all the dust off of it them sprayed it with OSPHO. So I should be able to green pad rub it and spray on a frame paint and it looks like from the EV8 book that is a glossy black. Am I on the right track here? Greg Meiling 1935 3 Window Coupe TomO 07-21-2011 @ 6:52 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7271 Joined: Oct 2009 Alan, epoxy paint does not have to have the "wet" look or high gloss associated with 2 part paints. It can be mixed to give a semi-gloss sheen and is more resistant to abrasion then Eastwood's chassis paint. Rustolem primers can give problems with any other manufacturers top coat, even years after they have been applied. I found out this the hard way. Tom 51f1 07-21-2011 @ 6:33 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 573 Joined: Oct 2009 You have to be careful with Rustoleum products as many of them use fish oil and automotive paints don't stick to oils very well. However, some Rustolueum products are compatible with automotive paints. Just check to be sure. My 2 cents worth: I used POR 15. It's very good if it is applied properly, and you use 2 coats. Top it with their chassis coat black. I never had much luck with Eastwood paints. Richard supereal 07-21-2011 @ 5:09 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Alan: I don't think we have been off the track, unless the virtues of mayonaisse vs. Miracle Whip are considered. I think the earlier advice regarding forming a goal as to how high the caliber of the "restoration" should be was right on the money, no pun intended. It seems many well intended projects lie abandoned because expectations were too high, or the amount of resources available were insufficient. In my experience over the years, I learned that regardless of what we expected, surprises, not all pleasant, arise. Old cars as a hobby can be a wonderful thing, and often the most frustrating in the world. On that, I'm sure we all agree! ford38v8 07-20-2011 @ 11:41 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2788 Joined: Oct 2009 Bob, I'm glad We're back on track again, I was concerned! We should make something clear regarding rust before we are shouted down by others: Rust is just not a good thing to find on any hunk of iron, even a C###y.If you can get at it, get rid of it, but the thing about rust is that it seeks the tight spots, the seams, the most inaccessible places. You just have to do the best you can to get rid of it, and rely on chemical tools to do what you can't do. Rustmort, and dozens of other similar products, have as a not so secret ingredient, Phosphoric Acid. This watery liquid saturates rust and chemically converts it to iron oxide. Excess product is left on the iron as Phosphate, ready and able to prevent future rust. Auto bodies used to be dipped in a phosphate solution and would come out a ghostly grey. They would be referred to at that point as being "in the white". These same car bodies years later are sometimes dipped to strip old paint, Problem is, the dip strips out phosphate from seams that had previously protected the bodies, leaving them unprotected. If encapsulated, these seams will be just fine, but difficult to protect as well as they had been prior to the dipping. Not the end of story, though, as both iron oxide and phosphate need a topcoat to permanently exclude oxygen, the mother of rust. Alan

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