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Posted By Discussion Topic: coil/condenser -- page: 1 2 3     swmddo 06-26-2011 @ 4:10 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Possibly so, but in examining the new set of points in the distributor, they appeared to be doing what they were supposed to do. very frustrating. UPDATE: I get a spark, albeit a weak one, from a high tension test wire from the coil. That indicates to me that the points are working. Could be now, a condenser, OR coil problem. Steve This message was edited by swmddo on 6-27-11 @ 6:08 AM supereal 06-26-2011 @ 12:11 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I suspect that one of the point sets is not closing. One set "makes" the circuit, the other "breaks" it. If only one set is making contact, you will see the needle on an ohmmeter jump as it makes contact, but there is no saturation of the coil to produce the spark. As for the horn, it is alway "hot", and should blow as long as the battery is connected. The shock you feel is from the horn relay. When you release the horn button or ring, the magnetic field around the relay coil collapes and generates a spike that is transmitted back to the horn ring. Many manufacturers used a wire with a builtin resistor in the wire to eliminate the shock. It can also be done by placing a small resistor between the wire to the relay and the relay itself. swmddo 06-26-2011 @ 11:26 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Deluxe40, thanks. I was about to that point, but it helps when you get some additional insight. Thanks to all Steve deluxe40 06-26-2011 @ 10:40 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 413 Joined: Oct 2009 SWMDDO - In my opinion, it's time to package up the coil, condenser and distributor and send them off to Skip (or another vendor with a distributor machine) to be set up properly and tested. You might have a weak coil and/or condenser and you probably have either a bad set of new points or a mis-assembled distributor. In any case, it is hard to set the dwell properly without a distributor machine. You might be able to get the car to run again, but it won't be optimal. ( I also wouldn't go on tour again without a coil rebuilt by Skip). I think your horn problem is unrelated. There is voltage on the horn wire that runs from the horn relay up the steering column even when the key and engine are off. When you push the horn button this wire is grounded, closing the horn relay and honking the horn. If the insulation between the inside part of the horn ring that makes the ground connection and the part you touch is gone, you become another path to ground and get a slight shock. This message was edited by deluxe40 on 6-26-11 @ 10:55 AM swmddo 06-26-2011 @ 8:50 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Points work now, but still no spark. The resistance goes up and down with jumper between distributor and coil. I have other issues, too. The horn shouldn't honk unless the engine is running, right? I get a shock when beeping the horn, too. I am frustrated, as I don't believe I've changed any of the wiring connections from when it ran fine. Do I have a polarity problem, possibly? Would that prevent the coil from working? Maybe I need a new coil...I hate to spend $$ when I don't know what's wrong. Steve swmddo 06-25-2011 @ 4:01 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 I think I've found the problem! The small retaining ring around the shaft under the lobes is out of round, thus preventing the plate from seating down all the way. I am trying to figure a way using just needle nose pliers to get that ring back in without getting it out of round again. UPDATE: The small ring was messed up when I took the plate off to replace the points. I was unable to get it back in place and have it tight enough to allow the plate to go over it. Seeing as this is a pretty much closed piece, with the timing screw and the large ring, I opted to leave the small ring out. Steve This message was edited by swmddo on 6-25-11 @ 4:29 PM swmddo 06-25-2011 @ 2:41 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks to all. My coil reads 3.4-3.5 volts with the ignition switch on. However, I just realized that the new/replacement base of the points (the stationary one) may be THINNER than the old ones, thus causing the binding of the screws...will have to check it out. Steve supereal 06-25-2011 @ 7:37 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 To determine whether a non stock coil needs a resistor, place a voltmeter between the input terminal of the coil and ground. Turn on the ignition and watch the meter. With the points closed, the reading should not exceed about 3.5 volts (not amps). If the reading is higher, a resistor is needed. If the reading is within range, the coil has a built-in resistor. The resistor is important as a sort of voltage regulator to prevent point burning as the system voltage rise at speed. I mention the condenser check to aid in determining what actually happened when the engine quit. Replacement is usually done, but given the uneven quality of today's parts, if you have a good one, reuse it. 40 Coupe 06-25-2011 @ 4:23 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1683 Joined: Oct 2009 If the screws used for mounting the new points are too long they will interfere with the mechanical advance mechanism, under the point plate and cause binding and the point plate will not fit correctly. When trying to test a condenser that you suspect is failing under heat,to see if it is good, you have to heat it before testing it on any meter. Unless you truly understand what you are doing and looking at with the meter I would suggest just changing the condenser. Because a coil is marked "no resistor needed" does not mean you should remove the resistor. The coil may draw excessive current for the points causing premature damage to them from arcing. The Ford distributor points are only good for about 3 amps load, if you want them to last. To change out the Ford coil to a modern style I suggest you see several of "Bubbas" postings on fordbarn.com he explains this very well. swmddo 06-24-2011 @ 6:20 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 The locking ring is not seating properly, and that is keeping the plate slightly off center, and that is what is making it tight. It seems there is a very fine line between getting the plate in properly and not. So far, I've found out how NOT to get it in... Steve

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