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Discussion Topic:
Radiator cap for 1939 V8 Deluxe
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1939ute |
02-07-2011 @ 1:15 PM
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Member
Posts: 80
Joined: Apr 2010
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Thanks Tom, I'm out and about today, I'll get the cap checked and source some distilled water. Cheers, John
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TomO |
02-07-2011 @ 8:02 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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Jon, do not use rain water. It has too many contaminants in it and may be very acidic. Use steam distilled water. A good radiator shop should be able to check your radiator cap pressure.
Tom
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kubes40 |
02-06-2011 @ 1:04 PM
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Senior
Posts: 3406
Joined: Oct 2009
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I'll have to search it out. I have quite literally one room dedicated to the 40 book. While I am quite organized, once a draft is composed, I have a tendency to put the requisite reference materials away. If I didn't, you could only imagine the mess that would soon ensue!
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dwj39 |
02-06-2011 @ 9:39 AM
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To Kubes40: Thanks for the info. Any way you can email me a copy of the engineering release?
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kubes40 |
02-06-2011 @ 5:53 AM
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The engineering release depicts the 91A quite clearly. Whether or not in reality all caps got this??? Definitely should be a brass rivet in the center as the steel one wasn't used until much later. After WWII as i recall. I'd have to check the notes to get the exact date once again. NO other markings should be on the cap.
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dwj39 |
02-06-2011 @ 4:49 AM
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Member
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To kubes40: Is the 91A on the nib original? There seems to be some disagreement as to whether or not there were any markings on the Stant caps. Every time my car was judged this seemed to be a topic of discussion.
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1939ute |
02-05-2011 @ 6:07 PM
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Member
Posts: 80
Joined: Apr 2010
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Hello supereal, thanks for that, I don't have the low temps down here so I will try rainwater and inhibitor and see how that goes! I will, if I can work out how to do it, get the cap release pressure! Cheers, John
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1939ute |
02-05-2011 @ 6:01 PM
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Member
Posts: 80
Joined: Apr 2010
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Hello TomO, thanks for your input and no, I haven't checked the cap pressure; not sure how I would do that either! I might leave it go and see if the leaking ceases and go from there! As I have already explained, it's only slight and only when hot! I will get some inhibitor and drain the coolant and mix it in also.
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supereal |
02-05-2011 @ 9:56 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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John: TomO covered your question. Antifreeze is, as said, less efficient than plain water, but here, in Iowa, we run antifreeze, also Sierra in my case, year around lest we forget to drain the system before the winter arrives. If you do use plain, or distilled/demineralized water, be sure to add anti rust to protect the cast iron and lube the water pump seals.
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TomO |
02-05-2011 @ 6:54 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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John, the water pump sea;s should be able to stand 4 lbs pressure easily. Have you had your cap checked to see if it does relieve the pressure at 4 lbs? Your water pump seal may seat after a few hundred more miles. If it doesn't seat by the time you have 1,000 miles on it, you need to have it rebuilt again. Coolant will leak in spots that water will not. Water with rust inhibitor will cool slightly better that a 50/50 mix of coolant. In the USA, a lot of us use the Sierra brand of antifreeze due to the low foaming characteristics of the product. Your pressure cap should keep the foaming to a minimum. So, my recommendation is to use what ever works best for you.
Tom
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