| 1939ute | -- 02-03-2011 @ 5:52 PM |
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Could anyone tell me the correct cap and relief pressure of a 1939 Ford V8 Deluxe (twin core type radiator)please ? I have looked at specs from all over the place but haven't been able to satisfy myself that I have it right! Some say 3&1/2pound to 4&1/2 pound and others say up to 9 & 1/2 pounds! Thanks. Cheers, John
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| 40guy | -- 02-03-2011 @ 6:11 PM |
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About 4 lbs.
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| 1939ute | -- 02-03-2011 @ 6:21 PM |
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Thanks 40guy. Cheers, John
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| alanwoodieman | -- 02-03-2011 @ 8:18 PM |
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originally there was just a cap-no pressure rating at all, just an overflow, the overflow tube goes out an original radiator on the top and the cap is on the DS top of the tank on the slope, if you want to run pressure you must plug up the overflow and put some sort of overflow on the cap location, or you can get one of the pressure valves that go on the overflow tube -I think those are the 3 lb type, later replacement Ford radiators have the cap on the top and can be easily fitted with a 4-7 lb cap
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| kubes40 | -- 02-04-2011 @ 6:06 AM |
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Alan is quite correct. NO pressure. Attached is a photo of a correct cap. The photo is black & white so you can't easily determine that the center rivet is brass. Steel rivet caps were service parts, manufactured after WWII.
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| supereal | -- 02-04-2011 @ 10:50 AM |
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Skip Haney makes a valve that fits on the end of the overflow tube and converts an open system to pressure. Anything over four lbs is asking for trouble.
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| 1939ute | -- 02-04-2011 @ 9:09 PM |
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Hello alanwoodieman, thanks for your reply; I think I might need to work this out as I had a new core fitted while I was restoring the radiator and I put the best of all the radiator bits back on the top and bottom tanks! In doing that, I ended up with the filler at the top, not on an angle on the side and the overflow is for the pressure type (I think)! I fitted a 4Lb (Mexico#4, available at Mac's) pressure cap! The reason I asked the question was because I have noticed a small spray mark on the inner fender on the right hand side and I think it's coming from the water pump! It's not leaking when it's cold but I think it's happening while driving when it gets hot. That made me wonder if I have put too much pressure on the pump seals? Both water pumps were recondition during the restoration and have only done about 200Mls max! My thinking was/is, while it doesn't seem to get any hotter the 190/200 , could the pressure be too high? I'm running coolant in the system and thought it would be better for keeping it cool and I wouldn't loose the coolant! Maybe I should put inhibitor in it and a non pressured cap! Any thoughts? I do thank everyone for their replies! Cheers, John
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| 1939ute | -- 02-04-2011 @ 9:18 PM |
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Hello kubes40, thanks for your reply with the attached photo! I have explained my reason for asking the question in the reply to alanwoodieman above and hope you wouldn't mind referring to that to understand better what I'm about here? Simply, should I run without coolant and a non pressure cap or coolant with a 4lb max pressure cap? Thanks again for your input. Cheers,John
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| 1939ute | -- 02-04-2011 @ 9:30 PM |
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Hello supereal, thanks for your reply, if I have fitted a (Mexico #4 cap) which is ratted at 4Lb, would I be doing the same thing as you have suggested or am I missing something here? Please refer to my reply above to alanwoodieman. Thanks for your help, I always appreciate the input I receive from this forum! Cheers, John
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| TomO | -- 02-05-2011 @ 6:54 AM |
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John, the water pump sea;s should be able to stand 4 lbs pressure easily. Have you had your cap checked to see if it does relieve the pressure at 4 lbs? Your water pump seal may seat after a few hundred more miles. If it doesn't seat by the time you have 1,000 miles on it, you need to have it rebuilt again. Coolant will leak in spots that water will not. Water with rust inhibitor will cool slightly better that a 50/50 mix of coolant. In the USA, a lot of us use the Sierra brand of antifreeze due to the low foaming characteristics of the product. Your pressure cap should keep the foaming to a minimum. So, my recommendation is to use what ever works best for you. Tom
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| supereal | -- 02-05-2011 @ 9:56 AM |
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John: TomO covered your question. Antifreeze is, as said, less efficient than plain water, but here, in Iowa, we run antifreeze, also Sierra in my case, year around lest we forget to drain the system before the winter arrives. If you do use plain, or distilled/demineralized water, be sure to add anti rust to protect the cast iron and lube the water pump seals.
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| 1939ute | -- 02-05-2011 @ 6:01 PM |
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Hello TomO, thanks for your input and no, I haven't checked the cap pressure; not sure how I would do that either! I might leave it go and see if the leaking ceases and go from there! As I have already explained, it's only slight and only when hot! I will get some inhibitor and drain the coolant and mix it in also.
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| 1939ute | -- 02-05-2011 @ 6:07 PM |
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Hello supereal, thanks for that, I don't have the low temps down here so I will try rainwater and inhibitor and see how that goes! I will, if I can work out how to do it, get the cap release pressure! Cheers, John
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| dwj39 | -- 02-06-2011 @ 4:49 AM |
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To kubes40: Is the 91A on the nib original? There seems to be some disagreement as to whether or not there were any markings on the Stant caps. Every time my car was judged this seemed to be a topic of discussion.
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| kubes40 | -- 02-06-2011 @ 5:53 AM |
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The engineering release depicts the 91A quite clearly. Whether or not in reality all caps got this??? Definitely should be a brass rivet in the center as the steel one wasn't used until much later. After WWII as i recall. I'd have to check the notes to get the exact date once again. NO other markings should be on the cap.
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| dwj39 | -- 02-06-2011 @ 9:39 AM |
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To Kubes40: Thanks for the info. Any way you can email me a copy of the engineering release?
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| kubes40 | -- 02-06-2011 @ 1:04 PM |
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I'll have to search it out. I have quite literally one room dedicated to the 40 book. While I am quite organized, once a draft is composed, I have a tendency to put the requisite reference materials away. If I didn't, you could only imagine the mess that would soon ensue!
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| TomO | -- 02-07-2011 @ 8:02 AM |
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Jon, do not use rain water. It has too many contaminants in it and may be very acidic. Use steam distilled water. A good radiator shop should be able to check your radiator cap pressure. Tom
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| 1939ute | -- 02-07-2011 @ 1:15 PM |
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Thanks Tom, I'm out and about today, I'll get the cap checked and source some distilled water. Cheers, John
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