Posted By |
Discussion Topic:
1948 rear hub puller
-- page:
1
2
|
|
rdove |
09-09-2010 @ 1:54 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 61
Joined: Jan 2010
|
Gentleman, What is the best and gentlest puller to use to remove the rear hub and drum from my '48 Tudor and what kind of puller do I use to remove the shock absorber link from the shock arm? The old girl has been in a barn since 1968 and I'm starting restoration. Thanks
|
supereal |
09-09-2010 @ 2:20 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
The very best rear hub puller is the KRW AVP-156 repro made by the Winfield Tool Works. It costs $130 for the puller, plus $15 S&H. If you want the nice wooden box to keep it in, add another $15. The order number is 631/928-3316. That may sound expensive, but it removes the most difficult hubs without damage. We have used one for many years without a failure. You can see it on page 83 of the latest V8 TIMES.
|
supereal |
09-09-2010 @ 2:20 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
The very best rear hub puller is the KRW AVP-156 repro made by the Winfield Tool Works. It costs $130 for the puller, plus $15 S&H. If you want the nice wooden box to keep it in, add another $15. The order number is 631/928-3316. That may sound expensive, but it removes the most difficult hubs without damage. We have used one for many years without a failure. You can see it on page 83 of the latest V8 TIMES.
|
oldford2 |
09-09-2010 @ 2:43 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 275
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Dove, If you have to remove the rear drums from a car that has been in storage for over 40 years, it is not a "gentle" thing to watch. Much sweating, swearing, BFH's. Now that you understand that, the concensus is that the K R Wilson type of puller is best approach. Winfield Tool Works makes and sells them and MAC's has a similar type in their catalog. Not cheap so check out your regional/local EFV8 club to see if someone has one to loan. These guys are helpful. If the shock is off the car you can support the arm on a big vise or anvil and drive it out with a piece of brass or copper. If it on the car it is not too easy (Hey! you wanted to fix a Ford!). A pickle type fork or tie rod end puller might work but the sure way is to remove the wheel so you can take off the nut at the bottom of the link and drive the taper out. Then remove the shock (easy) and put the arm on an anvil or heavy vise and drive out the taper at the top link. Good time to send the shocks to Bill Wzorek (sp?) for rebuilding. Different folks have different strokes so maybe you will get more ideas. John
|
40guy |
09-09-2010 @ 4:58 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 270
Joined: Oct 2009
|
I have the kind of hub puller with 3 arms that attach to the studs and secured with the lug nuts. I know some people don't like this kind, but it has never failed to remove a hub for me; and for the occassional "hobby" user is a lot cheaper. I've seen them at swap meets for as little as 15 bucks. However, many years ago I took mine to a machine shop and had a nipple put on the end so it would stay put in the axle. I strongly recommend that with this type puller.
|
parrish |
09-10-2010 @ 9:02 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009
|
just remember to back the shoes in as far as possible
|
parrish |
09-10-2010 @ 9:02 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 349
Joined: Oct 2009
|
just remember to back the shoes in as far as possible
|
supereal |
09-10-2010 @ 9:09 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
|
The risk in using a puller that grips the studs or the rim, rather than the hub itself, is that the drum will be distorted or broken in the process, particularly if the hub is bonded to the axle. The KRW type has a cap that fits over the threaded end of the axle to prevent swedging if, as is often required, some "persuasion" with a hammer is called for.
|
rdove |
09-11-2010 @ 5:33 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 61
Joined: Jan 2010
|
Thanks to all for the great advice. I've ordered a hub puller from Winfield. I'm sure I will have more questions has this restoration continues.
|
rdove |
09-11-2010 @ 5:34 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 61
Joined: Jan 2010
|
Thanks John, How do I contact Bill Wzorek. I assume he does excellent rebuilds.
|