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Discussion Topic:
1948 rear hub puller
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supereal |
09-19-2010 @ 3:25 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Glad the Winfield KRW puller worked as recommended. The only problem I have with mine is getting it back when it is borrowed. Using a knockoff on the axle, or running the nut out to the end, then whacking it was the way we did it years ago. If you scr*w*d up the end of the axle by forgetting to have the other side wheel off the ground, junkyards were full of replacements. No more. We still pull flywheels off small engines by tapping the end of the crank with a brass mallet, but given the way almost all old Ford hubs are stuck to the taper, the KRW usually pays for itself the first time you use it.
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rdove |
09-19-2010 @ 11:22 AM
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Member
Posts: 61
Joined: Jan 2010
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I highly recommend the Wilson puller. It worked great. Thanks!
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EdB |
09-12-2010 @ 5:30 AM
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Member
Posts: 47
Joined: Nov 2009
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here is a link to a Ford Barn thread, Model A page, that has a couple of homemade pullers: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4918&highlight=drum+puller
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keith oh |
09-11-2010 @ 7:52 PM
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New Member
Posts: 116
Joined: May 2010
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Alan, I guess all the drums and small engine flywheels I have removed this way were not" properly installed". Have never had to remove any shrapnel either.
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ford38v8 |
09-11-2010 @ 7:01 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2758
Joined: Oct 2009
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Kieth, I agree that your method sounds crude! I believe that any drum that had been correctly installed would require quite a bit more persuasion than your method could normally produce. Also, your admonition to wear eye protection should extend to using body armor if two hammer faces are to meet. I recently had hammer shrapnel removed from my body that had been "installed" 50 years ago.
Alan
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keith oh |
09-11-2010 @ 12:15 PM
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New Member
Posts: 116
Joined: May 2010
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This may sound crude but it works most of the time. Place a couple of large screwdrivers between the Drum and backplate and apply pressure. Place a large balpeen hammer against the loosened nut,one or two threads, and hit it(the hammer)with another large hammer. This gives a double shock action. Wear eye protection.
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Kens 36 |
09-11-2010 @ 6:17 AM
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Member
Posts: 343
Joined: Oct 2009
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rdove, Bill Wzorek took over Louis Trinque's shock rebuilding business in Massachusetts. He is in Florence. Phone: 413-586-5324 E-mail: WPWZ@COMCAST.NET Ken
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rdove |
09-11-2010 @ 5:34 AM
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Member
Posts: 61
Joined: Jan 2010
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Thanks John, How do I contact Bill Wzorek. I assume he does excellent rebuilds.
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rdove |
09-11-2010 @ 5:33 AM
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Member
Posts: 61
Joined: Jan 2010
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Thanks to all for the great advice. I've ordered a hub puller from Winfield. I'm sure I will have more questions has this restoration continues.
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supereal |
09-10-2010 @ 9:09 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The risk in using a puller that grips the studs or the rim, rather than the hub itself, is that the drum will be distorted or broken in the process, particularly if the hub is bonded to the axle. The KRW type has a cap that fits over the threaded end of the axle to prevent swedging if, as is often required, some "persuasion" with a hammer is called for.
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