| rdove | -- 09-09-2010 @ 1:54 PM |
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Gentleman, What is the best and gentlest puller to use to remove the rear hub and drum from my '48 Tudor and what kind of puller do I use to remove the shock absorber link from the shock arm? The old girl has been in a barn since 1968 and I'm starting restoration. Thanks
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| supereal | -- 09-09-2010 @ 2:20 PM |
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The very best rear hub puller is the KRW AVP-156 repro made by the Winfield Tool Works. It costs $130 for the puller, plus $15 S&H. If you want the nice wooden box to keep it in, add another $15. The order number is 631/928-3316. That may sound expensive, but it removes the most difficult hubs without damage. We have used one for many years without a failure. You can see it on page 83 of the latest V8 TIMES.
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| supereal | -- 09-09-2010 @ 2:20 PM |
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The very best rear hub puller is the KRW AVP-156 repro made by the Winfield Tool Works. It costs $130 for the puller, plus $15 S&H. If you want the nice wooden box to keep it in, add another $15. The order number is 631/928-3316. That may sound expensive, but it removes the most difficult hubs without damage. We have used one for many years without a failure. You can see it on page 83 of the latest V8 TIMES.
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| oldford2 | -- 09-09-2010 @ 2:43 PM |
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Dove, If you have to remove the rear drums from a car that has been in storage for over 40 years, it is not a "gentle" thing to watch. Much sweating, swearing, BFH's. Now that you understand that, the concensus is that the K R Wilson type of puller is best approach. Winfield Tool Works makes and sells them and MAC's has a similar type in their catalog. Not cheap so check out your regional/local EFV8 club to see if someone has one to loan. These guys are helpful. If the shock is off the car you can support the arm on a big vise or anvil and drive it out with a piece of brass or copper. If it on the car it is not too easy (Hey! you wanted to fix a Ford!). A pickle type fork or tie rod end puller might work but the sure way is to remove the wheel so you can take off the nut at the bottom of the link and drive the taper out. Then remove the shock (easy) and put the arm on an anvil or heavy vise and drive out the taper at the top link. Good time to send the shocks to Bill Wzorek (sp?) for rebuilding. Different folks have different strokes so maybe you will get more ideas. John
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| 40guy | -- 09-09-2010 @ 4:58 PM |
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I have the kind of hub puller with 3 arms that attach to the studs and secured with the lug nuts. I know some people don't like this kind, but it has never failed to remove a hub for me; and for the occassional "hobby" user is a lot cheaper. I've seen them at swap meets for as little as 15 bucks. However, many years ago I took mine to a machine shop and had a nipple put on the end so it would stay put in the axle. I strongly recommend that with this type puller.
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| parrish | -- 09-10-2010 @ 9:02 AM |
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just remember to back the shoes in as far as possible
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| parrish | -- 09-10-2010 @ 9:02 AM |
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just remember to back the shoes in as far as possible
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| supereal | -- 09-10-2010 @ 9:09 AM |
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The risk in using a puller that grips the studs or the rim, rather than the hub itself, is that the drum will be distorted or broken in the process, particularly if the hub is bonded to the axle. The KRW type has a cap that fits over the threaded end of the axle to prevent swedging if, as is often required, some "persuasion" with a hammer is called for.
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| rdove | -- 09-11-2010 @ 5:33 AM |
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Thanks to all for the great advice. I've ordered a hub puller from Winfield. I'm sure I will have more questions has this restoration continues.
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| rdove | -- 09-11-2010 @ 5:34 AM |
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Thanks John, How do I contact Bill Wzorek. I assume he does excellent rebuilds.
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| Kens 36 | -- 09-11-2010 @ 6:17 AM |
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rdove, Bill Wzorek took over Louis Trinque's shock rebuilding business in Massachusetts. He is in Florence. Phone: 413-586-5324 E-mail: WPWZ@COMCAST.NET Ken
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| keith oh | -- 09-11-2010 @ 12:15 PM |
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This may sound crude but it works most of the time. Place a couple of large screwdrivers between the Drum and backplate and apply pressure. Place a large balpeen hammer against the loosened nut,one or two threads, and hit it(the hammer)with another large hammer. This gives a double shock action. Wear eye protection.
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| ford38v8 | -- 09-11-2010 @ 7:01 PM |
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Kieth, I agree that your method sounds crude! I believe that any drum that had been correctly installed would require quite a bit more persuasion than your method could normally produce. Also, your admonition to wear eye protection should extend to using body armor if two hammer faces are to meet. I recently had hammer shrapnel removed from my body that had been "installed" 50 years ago. Alan
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| keith oh | -- 09-11-2010 @ 7:52 PM |
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Alan, I guess all the drums and small engine flywheels I have removed this way were not" properly installed". Have never had to remove any shrapnel either.
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| EdB | -- 09-12-2010 @ 5:30 AM |
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here is a link to a Ford Barn thread, Model A page, that has a couple of homemade pullers: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4918&highlight=drum+puller
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| rdove | -- 09-19-2010 @ 11:22 AM |
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I highly recommend the Wilson puller. It worked great. Thanks!
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| supereal | -- 09-19-2010 @ 3:25 PM |
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Glad the Winfield KRW puller worked as recommended. The only problem I have with mine is getting it back when it is borrowed. Using a knockoff on the axle, or running the nut out to the end, then whacking it was the way we did it years ago. If you scr*w*d up the end of the axle by forgetting to have the other side wheel off the ground, junkyards were full of replacements. No more. We still pull flywheels off small engines by tapping the end of the crank with a brass mallet, but given the way almost all old Ford hubs are stuck to the taper, the KRW usually pays for itself the first time you use it.
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