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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / leaking 2nd new wheel cylinder

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Posted By Discussion Topic: leaking 2nd new wheel cylinder -- page: 1 2     fredster 08-25-2010 @ 8:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 6 Joined: Aug 2010 I bought all new wheel cylinders '39-'48at sacramento vintage ford 4 yrs ago. installed them in jan.this year and the left front leaks.i removed and inspected them had a friend check it out and he said the new wheel cylinder looked fine.I reinstalled and same thing, it leaks. i pulled the cylinder out again but it sat on my shop table for a few months and the inside of the cylinder got surface rust and some rust pits in them.I went to sac vintage and the parts tech guy said the rust pits caused the leak.So I bought a new one and installed it and it leaked.!Same left front.Wrong brake shoes? that pushing the piston pass the seal? HELP!!!!!!!!!! b29fred sturgis 39 08-26-2010 @ 4:29 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 74 Joined: Nov 2009 MAYBE THE CONNECTION IS THE CAUSE OF THE LEAK.SOMEONE TOLD ME NOT TO USE SILICONE BRAKE FLUID IN OLD CARS. THIS DOES NOT EXPLAIN JUST ONE CYLINDER LEAKING.I HAVE NEVER BOUGHT NEW CYLINDERS. THEY SELL KITS AND THEY ARE EASY TO INSTALL. BUY A HONE AND HOOK UP THE ELECTRIC DRILL AND HAVE FUN. THE SEALS AND PISTON RUBBERS DO NOT LIKE OIL.I HOPE SOMEONE WILL HAVE A BETTER SOLUTION.I HAVE HAD BAD BLEEDER VALVES AND I DO NOT KNOW IF YOU GET NEW ONES WITH NEW CYLINDERS. 37RAGTOPMAN 08-26-2010 @ 5:26 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1959 Joined: Oct 2009 The piston bore might be overbored causing this leak,I had the same thing from MACS a number of years ago, SENT THEM BACK, I bought NEW ones from a AUTO PARTS HOUSE, NOT CHEAP. but NO LEAKS.... WHITE POST RESTORATIONS also rebuild all kinds of cylinders,from any make of auto,by reboring the cylinders and installing brass sleeves in them, NO MORE RUST,EVER. the rubber parts in the cylinders are very common and just about any auto part store will have kits with the same sizes ,and you can try to install new seals in them. not a hard job, and a learning experience., BUY A HONE,,,make sure there are no pits near the end were the seal rides, in the center of the cylinder were the seal does not ride, should be ok,if it has a few pits,cause it does not wear the seal out, ALSO.....NAPA AUTO PARTS SELLS a lube that you install behind the rubber boots.this makes a seal to keep water out,well worth the few bucks, Hope this helps,. 37RAGTOPMAN,an KEEP ON TRUCKIN,,,!! TomO 08-26-2010 @ 7:32 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7252 Joined: Oct 2009 I prefer to buy all of my brake parts from a local auto parts store. They handle Wagner, Raybestos and Dorman products. I have not had any problem with these parts and the price is competitive with quality parts form C&G and other vendors. The Raybestos part numbers for wheel cylinders are: Left Front WC8264, RF WC8265, LR WC8266 and RR WC8267. The Master Cylinder P/N is MC1050. Use a good quality dial or digital calipers to measure both bores of the cylinders. They should be 1" and 1 1/8 inch + .003" -.0". Tom deuce_roadster 08-26-2010 @ 9:40 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 284 Joined: Oct 2009 I had this exact same problem with 2 different cars both with NAPA parts. Both times it was the thickness of the new lining pushing the piston too far in the cyl and the lip of the rubber was going just past the entrance hole for the brake lining. There really was no problem with the cylinder. I think this is more an issue with the front cylinders because I think the line is coming in at an angle. Anyway it was VERY frustrating, I ended up taking about 1/16 inch off the ends of the shoes where they contact the piston and the problem went away. deuce_roadster 08-26-2010 @ 9:42 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 284 Joined: Oct 2009 Oops, make that the entrance hole for the brake FLUID in the previous post. (It is h*ll getting old) supereal 08-26-2010 @ 10:01 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Are the wheel cylinders correctly positioned with the large end facing the front of the car, and the secondary (short) shoe end of the cylinder facing toward the reverse shoe? Does your master cylinder have at least one inch of free play at the pedal so the system pressure is fully relieved when the pedal is released? Is the brake hose to that wheel in good condition with no kinks? It is unusual for a new brake cylinder to become pitted in a short time, especially out on the bench. Pitting is caused by water in the fluid. Brake fluid is "hydroscopic". That means it has an affinity for water, which collects in the cylinders as beads on the bottom surface of the bore. Only fresh, never before opened, containers of brake fluid should be used. We flush and replace all conventional brake fluid in our cars every couple of years, and avoid silicone (DOT5) fluid because it tends to leak even in otherwise good systems. 37RAGTOPMAN 08-26-2010 @ 5:23 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1959 Joined: Oct 2009 only time I saw that silicone brake fluid work is in a closed brake system like a motorcycle, used it twice,and had problems both times 1962 MERCEDES BENZ 190-D EVERTHING NEW,!!!! 1948 CHEVROLET STATION WAGON,did a complete brake system , everything new, everything new, and about 1 year later had problems, went back to the original brake fluid. I have good results with VALOLINE SYNTHEIC BRAKE FLUID. 37RAGTOPMAN an KEEP ON TRUCKIN,,,, 37RAGTOPMAN 08-26-2010 @ 5:30 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1959 Joined: Oct 2009 deuce roadster. on the brake relined brake shoes,? were the shoes repros? with new lining? or original shoes,with new lining? it always to play safe. and AWAYS COMPARE REPROS to the ORIGINALS, I suspect that the shoes were repros and were just a little longer then the originals. just my 3 cents worth, but really would like to know. 37RAGTOPMAN deuce_roadster 08-26-2010 @ 9:10 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 284 Joined: Oct 2009 37Ragtopman, Shoes were Ford script but yes, they had been relined locally in the Seattle area (bonded) and arced to drums. Drums were less then .050 wear. Don't know how you would check to see if the lining is too thick, maybe I should have used worse drums (not really!) But this was definitely the problem here as everything else was new. Pistons being pushed too far back.

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