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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Won't Start

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Won't Start -- page: 1 2 3 4 5     Dream38v8 06-12-2024 @ 7:36 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 178 Joined: May 2016 Tom, very interesting. Is your '37 still 6v +ground? How is your coil connected to the distributor? Are you still using the standard '37 distributor? Ray same 06-12-2024 @ 9:11 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 92 Joined: Jun 2020 Ray,'37 is still 6volt +grnd like i had said prev owner had the oe 3 bolt tall coil mounted to helmet oe dist. the modern can style coil i still have mounted on left/drivers side cyl. head with wire from top side of helmet coil to + post on modern can coil. wire from - post of modern coil goes to dash to ignition switch. the high tention center connector on can coil goes into through hole on top of orig coil on top of helmet dist. this sytem seems to work. has the same points which i havn't replaced in 4+yrs and 7,000mi. i drive pretty much every day. like i said same ign. set up newre hotter can coil and luck with better condenser. its a cr*p shoot with condensers,most members on here or the ford barn would agree. iv'e had better luck with standard motor products mexico built than the napa eichlin condenser china built now.its important to get the correct mfd rated condenser so as keep from arcing and pitting the points. withe the latest FD-72 smp cond. and the new smp blue streak can coil combo the motor starts right away. sure hopes this makes some sense Ray. Tom. I will add that the pev owner had or did the ign. conversion i'm not sure how long ago. i'm the 3rd owner of'37 and the old gent before me had owned since 1956.allways garaged i know that much as i can tell by condition of the car. iv'e been around and under the car allot in 4yrs iv'e owned it.I do think the ign.conversion took place before speedway or others came up with a block off cover plate to fit on top of orig helmet dist.to use remote can coil. This message was edited by same on 6-12-24 @ 9:33 AM Dream38v8 06-12-2024 @ 2:43 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 178 Joined: May 2016 Tom, your solution works for you, but is a little to complicated for me. I leaning towards the ignition resistor and / or the coil. By connecting the coil directly to the battery I removed the resistor (from the electrical circuit) and the car did start, but would not continue to run. DrBrown, you mentioned testing the resistance of the condenser with an analog voltmeter. As I've mentioned I am not electrically knowledgeable. Therefore where do I connect the leads on the condenser? One on the ground connector and the other where it fastens to the distributor? If the condenser is bad I will purchase a 33mfd magneto condenser from Hunt's. Thanks, Ray carcrazy 06-12-2024 @ 4:50 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1667 Joined: Oct 2009 If this were my car and I wanted it to run reliably, this is what I would do: Use a Coil Adapter Kit P.N. 78-12035K (for 1937-41 Ford V-8's) from Van Pelt Sales. This kit includes the condenser and the coil wire. Use an Internally Resisted Coil from 5th Avenue P.N. 954156C. This is a 6 volt coil with an internal resistor so no external resistor is required. Note that this is not the cheapest coil available. My experience with $20 to $30 coils has been dismal, when you only have to buy 1 coil at $80 it seems like a bargain! Since your electrical system is 6V positive ground, connect the + terminal of your coil to the distributor. The - terminal of your coil will be connected directly to your ignition switch without any resistor. This message was edited by carcrazy on 6-12-24 @ 8:06 PM Dream38v8 06-14-2024 @ 7:56 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 178 Joined: May 2016 Carcarzy, as you read this you will understand why your solution maybe good but, why I will not implement it. After ready these posts I started thinking how I connected the condenser. I grounded the condenser, but did not connect it to the coil. After correcting this stupid mistake the car still would not start. I tested the voltage to the coil with the ignition on (1.59V). Next I tested the coil wire voltage not connected to the coil (6+V). I've ordered a new ignition resistor. Do I also need a new coil? What about the ignition switch? Thanks, Ray carcrazy 06-14-2024 @ 8:17 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1667 Joined: Oct 2009 Are you using an original 1938 Ford coil? If so, you will have to use an external ignition resistor. If you are using an aftermarket tubular coil with an internal resistor, you will not need an external resistor. Dream38v8 06-14-2024 @ 4:31 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 178 Joined: May 2016 I'm running a Skip Haney coil since mid 2016. Ignition resistor ordered today. Ray 40 Coupe 06-15-2024 @ 4:56 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1678 Joined: Oct 2009 You can measure the resistance of the resistors with your meter should be about 0.5 ohm. Having good clean and tight electrical connections is important. Remove any corrosion on the electrical terminals, screws nuts and lock washers It would be good to take the ignition switch apart and clean the contacts and reassemble. 1.5V at the coil is a bit low, 2. to 3. V is much better. When in service the resistor gets extremely HOT make sure it is mounted clear of any combustibles. The original Ford mount is good. This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 6-15-24 @ 5:07 AM Dream38v8 06-15-2024 @ 7:28 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 178 Joined: May 2016 40 Coupe, as I explained in an earlier post I am electrical illiterate. I do clean all contact as I work with them. You mention testing resistor resistance. Which resistors? With the ignition on or off? I've order a new ignition resistor from Midwest Early Ford which is scheduled to arrive Monday. Ray ford38v8 06-15-2024 @ 8:02 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2763 Joined: Oct 2009 Dream, you have found your problem. Voltage at the coil is too low. You have excess resistance in the system, which is coming from multiple unwanted sources. To locate those sources for correction, measure voltage at every juncture from battery to coil. Each reading will tell the story. As you have cleaned and tightened all connections, my guess would be the ignition switch itself. Your purchase of a new resistor may help, or may not, I much prefer the original Ford resistors to anything found on today’s marketplace. Alan

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