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carcrazy |
06-30-2024 @ 8:13 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1667
Joined: Oct 2009
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Hi Ray, Glad to hear that you have gotten your '38 to start and run reliably. Summer is now here so it is time to take your Flathead out and enjoy driving it. Be sure to bring EFV8 Club membership information with you. It is in driving our old Fords that we can generate enthusiasm within our communities for these often times forgotten beauties.
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Dream38v8 |
06-30-2024 @ 6:57 AM
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New Member
Posts: 178
Joined: May 2016
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I haven't touched the car since my last update. Got back at it yesterday. Here's the latest: The voltage drop across the battery is 6.2V (without the charger connected). I keep the battery on a trickle charger when I will not be using the car for a week or more. After installing the tested coil and condenser the car would not start. I jumped the solenoid to the coil. The car started. I went for a 15 mile test drive. AOK. When I turned the ignition off the car continued to run. Not a good work around or solution. The jumper has been removed. I let the car sit about an hour. It started without the solenoid jumper. Next the car sat overnight and went back this morning. The car started, but took a few cranks to actually fire and run (no jumper). I was using the choke as always. Ever since I owned the car it never started on first crank. It’s always taken a few cranks and playing with the choke to get it going. I let the car sit for about an hour. Went back out and it started right away (battery charger was not connected). Voltage at the coil is 3.2V. It seems the car is back to where is was prior to the starting issue. Here’s what I’ve done since the issue started: 1) Installed new ignition resistor 2) Installed to H10 plugs 3) Installed different distributor with new points 4) Had coil and condenser tested (OK) 5) Cleaned every connection I’ve worked with 6) Tighten a loose connection on the solenoid The car is also running a little rich. I will readjust the it later today. Thank you to everyone on the forum. You all continue to amaze me with the deep knowledge of our beloved Ford V8.
Ray
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ford38v8 |
06-21-2024 @ 10:24 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2763
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ray, Have you actually tested voltage at each juncture? I wouldn't dismantle or replace anything on guesswork before testing shows a fault. Your battery voltage across the terminals will be your starting point, and you should expect a very small voltage drop down the line, almost not measurable. The first point to measure is at your solenoid, then at the ignition switch. If your ignition switch drops voltage say, ½ volt, clean it or replace it. Your inline resistor is needed to protect the coil, and will drop about 2 volts. You need over 3 volts at the coil to start easily and run smoothly. I'd try Third Gen for a replacement ignition switch if yours tests bad. A very easy temporary fix, even easier than your jumper wire, is to release the starter and hope the engine kicks for you. This may do it, but may also require several tries to kick, and of course requires a good fuel charge and maybe half a choke if cold. The point here is to remove the starter's electrical draw from the equation to allow that voltage use for the ignition only. There are more fixes to the problem, but one thing at a time here, if this doesn't work for you, come on back and learn how your jumper wire can help you or if used continuously can hurt you. Alan
This message was edited by ford38v8 on 6-21-24 @ 10:26 PM
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Dream38v8 |
06-21-2024 @ 5:25 AM
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New Member
Posts: 178
Joined: May 2016
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Alan, I replaced the resistor and the car still wouldn't start. Next I jumped the battery directly to the coil. The car started rough, but smoothed out in a few. After the car started I removed the jumper wire. The car continued to run. The car ran for over five minutes. Next I removed the coil for a fellow V8 member to test. The coil is good. So now I am probably down to the ignition switch. I plan to jump the ignition switch. If the car starts I located the problem. What should I know about removing the switch and cleaning it? Thanks to everyone on the Forum for guidance and assistance.
Ray
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ford38v8 |
06-15-2024 @ 8:02 AM
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Senior
Posts: 2763
Joined: Oct 2009
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Dream, you have found your problem. Voltage at the coil is too low. You have excess resistance in the system, which is coming from multiple unwanted sources. To locate those sources for correction, measure voltage at every juncture from battery to coil. Each reading will tell the story. As you have cleaned and tightened all connections, my guess would be the ignition switch itself. Your purchase of a new resistor may help, or may not, I much prefer the original Ford resistors to anything found on today’s marketplace.
Alan
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Dream38v8 |
06-15-2024 @ 7:28 AM
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New Member
Posts: 178
Joined: May 2016
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40 Coupe, as I explained in an earlier post I am electrical illiterate. I do clean all contact as I work with them. You mention testing resistor resistance. Which resistors? With the ignition on or off? I've order a new ignition resistor from Midwest Early Ford which is scheduled to arrive Monday.
Ray
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40 Coupe |
06-15-2024 @ 4:56 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1678
Joined: Oct 2009
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You can measure the resistance of the resistors with your meter should be about 0.5 ohm. Having good clean and tight electrical connections is important. Remove any corrosion on the electrical terminals, screws nuts and lock washers It would be good to take the ignition switch apart and clean the contacts and reassemble. 1.5V at the coil is a bit low, 2. to 3. V is much better. When in service the resistor gets extremely HOT make sure it is mounted clear of any combustibles. The original Ford mount is good.
This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 6-15-24 @ 5:07 AM
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Dream38v8 |
06-14-2024 @ 4:31 PM
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New Member
Posts: 178
Joined: May 2016
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I'm running a Skip Haney coil since mid 2016. Ignition resistor ordered today.
Ray
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carcrazy |
06-14-2024 @ 8:17 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1667
Joined: Oct 2009
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Are you using an original 1938 Ford coil? If so, you will have to use an external ignition resistor. If you are using an aftermarket tubular coil with an internal resistor, you will not need an external resistor.
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Dream38v8 |
06-14-2024 @ 7:56 AM
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New Member
Posts: 178
Joined: May 2016
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Carcarzy, as you read this you will understand why your solution maybe good but, why I will not implement it. After ready these posts I started thinking how I connected the condenser. I grounded the condenser, but did not connect it to the coil. After correcting this stupid mistake the car still would not start. I tested the voltage to the coil with the ignition on (1.59V). Next I tested the coil wire voltage not connected to the coil (6+V). I've ordered a new ignition resistor. Do I also need a new coil? What about the ignition switch? Thanks,
Ray
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