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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Won't Start

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Dream38v8
05-25-2024 @ 11:07 AM
New Member
Posts: 177
Joined: May 2016
          
Jay, I've been running a set of Autolite 216s since 2016. I checked them earlier this year to regap. They looked dirty full of carbon. Should I switch to a hotter plug?

Thanks

Ray

same
05-25-2024 @ 12:35 PM
Member
Posts: 90
Joined: Jun 2020
          
Ray, i wouldnt go with a hotter plug yet. you may have to adjust your air/fuel mixture. runnin a little rich. you say carboned up-can you scr*pe a layer of carbon off the land of the plugs at end of threads?. Tom.

Dream38v8
05-25-2024 @ 6:18 PM
New Member
Posts: 177
Joined: May 2016
          
Yes,I did scr*p off the excess carbon the best I could.

Ray

carcrazy
05-25-2024 @ 9:40 PM
Senior
Posts: 1650
Joined: Oct 2009
          
If you want to stick with approximately the same heat range as the Champion H-10 but want to go with a different brand, a couple of options are the NGK B6L listed under Van Pelt part number 7RA-12405N or the Motorcraft plugs listed under C&G part number 7RA-12405.

Dream38v8
05-29-2024 @ 2:19 PM
New Member
Posts: 177
Joined: May 2016
          
Here we go again. NAPA replaced my initial condenser (FA49) today. Their original one failed after 15 minute drive and approximately 20 seconds run the next day. NAPA replace the condenser today. I started the car and it ran for less than 5 seconds. Are these NAPA condensers from a bad manufacturing batch? What can cause a condenser to fail?

37Ragtopman I connected a test light to the coil terminal and it lit up. Since NAPA replaced the defective on at no cost I thought I would give them a second chance.

If everyone agrees I ran into a bad batch of condensers I will buy a Hunt's 33mfd magneto condenser. The Hunt's magneto condenser route was recommended by "Kube". My concern is that something else is causing the condenser to fail.

Thanks,

Ray

carcrazy
05-29-2024 @ 5:03 PM
Senior
Posts: 1650
Joined: Oct 2009
          
What voltage is being delivered to your coil? Are you running a coil adapter to allow the use of a remote cylindrical coil? If you are using an original coil, the voltage at the coil should be reduced from 6V to approximately 3V by the resistor mounted under the instrument panel. If you are using an external remote 6V coil with an internal resistor, you will want to have 6V at the coil.

Dream38v8
05-29-2024 @ 6:04 PM
New Member
Posts: 177
Joined: May 2016
          
Carcrazy, I'm using a standard coil rebuilt by Skip. Not being an electrical guy how do I test for 3V at the coil?

Ray

same
05-29-2024 @ 7:16 PM
Member
Posts: 90
Joined: Jun 2020
          
Ray, you say youv'e been running the same set of autolite 216s since 2016? its prolly time to for a new set. i buy my autolites at oreilly auto parts. i happen to use 386 in my '37 it takes an 18mm plug. are your drives limited to short ones?if your not getting the eng temp up to 180deg the motor will carbon up quicker especially in colder weather. i still think you need to ckeck your air/ fuel mix with the two brass screws at base of carb facing the firewall. sounds like more carbon deposit on plugs than worth cleaning. the failing coil and condenser will contribute to incomplete burn of air/fuel mix=lots of carbon. good luck ,,Tom.

Dream38v8
05-29-2024 @ 8:33 PM
New Member
Posts: 177
Joined: May 2016
          
Same, I have a new set of 216s to install. I wanted to get the condenser issue working first. Once the car is running I'll adjust the carb.

Ray

carcrazy
05-29-2024 @ 9:23 PM
Senior
Posts: 1650
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Ray,

To check for voltage at the coil, use a voltmeter (or multimeter in the volts reading range) and connect the + wire of the voltmeter to ground and the - wire of the voltmeter to the terminal on the top of the coil with the ignition switch turned on.

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