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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Fuel vapor lock

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Discussion Topic: Fuel vapor lock -- page: 1 2

rustedorrotting

03-26-2023 @ 8:44 AM

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Posts: 124
Joined: Mar 2010

years ago i was the mechanic who helped rebuild a 65 galaxy 6 cyl. While I was working on the engine, the rest of the shop worked on the rest of the car. When it was done the service manager/ owner drove it home only to find it died on the way. While I was working on engine, he replaced the gas cap. Guess what the problem was.

pauls39coupe

03-15-2023 @ 4:41 PM

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Posts: 205
Joined: Jul 2014

Looks like you found the problem, another bad coil, or it is mounted in a high heat area. 1942 stock coils were mounted away from contact with the head and up in the air stream behind the fan. On the other hand many coils from "the land of almost right" are short lived.
As others have recommended send an original coil to Skip Haney for a rebuild. If you want to use a round can type coil , buy one from a reliable source , and mount it as far as possible from the engine heat.

Jacques1960

03-15-2023 @ 5:40 AM

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I agree with Kubes, having experienced identical symptoms with my ‘36 Phaeton. A “trip to Skip” solved the issue.

RAK402

03-14-2023 @ 5:26 PM

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I have seen references to, and had people warn me about vapor lock for the last 48 years (since I purchased my 1940 Ford Sedan).

I live in Southern California where it can get very hot, but have never experienced vapor lock.

I have had the car fail to start for various reasons (bad repro coil several times, poor ground, etc.), but never vapor lock.

This message was edited by RAK402 on 3-14-23 @ 5:29 PM

Larry Lange

03-14-2023 @ 11:06 AM

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Try using a Standard brand "Blue Streak" UC-14 coil. It helped solve my problem.

Larry Lange
Puget Sound Regional Group 18

Larry Lange

03-13-2023 @ 9:55 AM

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Try a Standard brand UC 14 coil.

Larry Lange / Puget Sound Regional Group 18

TomO

03-11-2023 @ 1:41 PM

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Joined: Oct 2009

Changing parts without performing a few tests to determine the source of the problem can lead to making the problem more complicated to fix.

Start your engine with one spark plug wire disconnected from the spark plug and connected to a spark tester

( https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER606?impressionRank=5 ).

The spark should jump the 20,000 volt gap, be blue in color and steady in operation. If the spark is orange in color or intermittent failure, the cause of your failure is in the ignition system.

Let the engine run long enough for the coil and condenser to heat up. If the spark deteriorates to orange in color or intermittent failure, the cause of your failure is in the ignition system .

If the spark fails this test, I would suspect the condenser, because it is the last thing you replaced and the new symptom of backfire. If you still have the original coil that sits on top of the distributor, I would remove it and the distributor and send them to Skip Haney in Florida. ( Skip@fordsrus.com ). He can check out the coil, condenser and point dwell for you as well as repair any problems.

If the engine passes this test, check for fuel delivery by operating the accelerator linkage as suggested by Jay.

Let us know how you made out.

Tom

MittieLee1935

03-11-2023 @ 11:52 AM

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Okay here is update. I changed out condenser and all 8 spark plugs. I got in car about a hour ago and drove for 20 minutes. Air temperature today is 75 degrees. Just as I made it within 500 feet of my driveway the car started missing and for the first time backfired twice. I turned into my driveway and it died. Last year when it did this except it didn’t backfire I put ice on my coil and it started back up. This last winter I changed out that coil for one with oil sleeve and internal resistor. When the new coil gets cool car will start. I’m worried about backfire. I know thats not so good.

37RAGTOPMAN

03-09-2023 @ 6:48 AM

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Posts: 1962
Joined: Oct 2009

FOR testing the coil and condensor on the car,
drive the car till it cuts out, or will not restart
then use a bag of ice on the coil and see if it will starts, if it does the coil is at falt, or possible condensor
techs checking out circuits in electronics use a cold spray in a can to check condensors and others electronics
hope this helps
37Ragtopman
if the coil is bad send the complete distributer to SKIP for a rebuild , and be sure do the coil also,
your PROBLEMS will be GONE,

dean333

03-08-2023 @ 8:50 AM

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Posts: 258
Joined: May 2012

Send your coil to Skip Haney, problem solved!

TIM CARLIG

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