| MittieLee1935 | -- 02-20-2023 @ 2:27 PM |
|
My 1935 Ford starts just fine but after driving for 20 minutes quits running. After letting engine cool down it starts and runs fine for another 15 minutes then dies again and will not start until it cools down again. I thought it was the ignition coil getting hot so I bought one surrounded in oil but alas did not fix problem. I am thinking fuel is boiling in line and vapor locking.
|
|
| kubes40 | -- 02-20-2023 @ 4:31 PM |
|
Doesn't sound anything like the so called "vapor lock" to me. I'd suggest you have the authentic (Ford oem) coil rebuilt and obtain a known good quality condenser. I prefer Hunt's Magnetos for my condensers. About $30 but unlike the "hit or miss" quality of the ones you get at napa, etc., well worth it. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
|
|
| carcrazy | -- 02-20-2023 @ 4:47 PM |
|
What you are experiencing is most likely a coil problem. I have bought new coils from various vendors and had them fail within 10 minutes of running. One thing you can do is buy a brand new Bosch coil for a 6 Volt VW Beetle and wire it up properly for your Ford 6V positive ground electrical system , plus (+) terminal to Distributor and minus (-) terminal to Ignition Switch.
|
|
| trjford8 | -- 02-21-2023 @ 7:31 AM |
|
It's a good possibility it is your coil. but I would also check to see if you have any crud in your gas tank. I had a similiar problem and it turned out to be a small piece of the hardening type Permatex floating around in the tank.
|
|
| JayChicago | -- 02-21-2023 @ 8:04 AM |
|
Since you are not sure if the problem is fuel or spark, I would suggest you do the basic quick-test to determine which. When it won't start.... With engine stopped, look down into the carburetor, move the throttle rod. You should see two squirts from the accelerator pump nozzles. If you see that, you know gas is getting to the carburetor. Remove a spark plug wire, hold it half inch from a head bolt while cranking the starter. Should see blue spark jumping the half inch gap. If you see that, you know ignition system is producing a good spark.
|
|
| 40 Coupe | -- 02-21-2023 @ 8:06 AM |
|
Change the ignition condenser, they are effected by heat. When the car will not start is there spark?
|
|
| 51504bat | -- 02-21-2023 @ 2:01 PM |
|
A long shot but take off the gas cap and see if the same problem occurs. ______________ No signature
|
|
| wmsteed | -- 02-28-2023 @ 10:56 AM |
|
An unvented fuel cap can cause the same problem that is being described. check the cap to see if it says "vented" or unvented" Over 70 years ago when I purchased my '36 Ford coupe I had a similar problem which was attributed to vapor lock I finally replaced the coil. After many more knee-jerk fixes, none of which worked I read a repair manual in lieu of listening to my friends. One of the things the repair manual listed to be checked was the "Ballast Resister".. My '36 did not have one, or should I say not to my knowledge, Wrong! The Ballast Resister on a '36 Ford / which is typical of most pre '42 Fords, is located inside of the car on the cowl/sound proofing panel above the steering column. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
|
|
| dean333 | -- 03-08-2023 @ 8:50 AM |
|
Send your coil to Skip Haney, problem solved! TIM CARLIG
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 03-09-2023 @ 6:48 AM |
|
FOR testing the coil and condensor on the car, drive the car till it cuts out, or will not restart then use a bag of ice on the coil and see if it will starts, if it does the coil is at falt, or possible condensor techs checking out circuits in electronics use a cold spray in a can to check condensors and others electronics hope this helps 37Ragtopman if the coil is bad send the complete distributer to SKIP for a rebuild , and be sure do the coil also, your PROBLEMS will be GONE,
|
|
| MittieLee1935 | -- 03-11-2023 @ 11:52 AM |
|
Okay here is update. I changed out condenser and all 8 spark plugs. I got in car about a hour ago and drove for 20 minutes. Air temperature today is 75 degrees. Just as I made it within 500 feet of my driveway the car started missing and for the first time backfired twice. I turned into my driveway and it died. Last year when it did this except it didn’t backfire I put ice on my coil and it started back up. This last winter I changed out that coil for one with oil sleeve and internal resistor. When the new coil gets cool car will start. I’m worried about backfire. I know thats not so good.
|
|
| TomO | -- 03-11-2023 @ 1:41 PM |
|
Changing parts without performing a few tests to determine the source of the problem can lead to making the problem more complicated to fix. Start your engine with one spark plug wire disconnected from the spark plug and connected to a spark tester ( https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER606?impressionRank=5 ). The spark should jump the 20,000 volt gap, be blue in color and steady in operation. If the spark is orange in color or intermittent failure, the cause of your failure is in the ignition system. Let the engine run long enough for the coil and condenser to heat up. If the spark deteriorates to orange in color or intermittent failure, the cause of your failure is in the ignition system . If the spark fails this test, I would suspect the condenser, because it is the last thing you replaced and the new symptom of backfire. If you still have the original coil that sits on top of the distributor, I would remove it and the distributor and send them to Skip Haney in Florida. ( Skip@fordsrus.com ). He can check out the coil, condenser and point dwell for you as well as repair any problems. If the engine passes this test, check for fuel delivery by operating the accelerator linkage as suggested by Jay. Let us know how you made out. Tom
|
|
| Larry Lange | -- 03-13-2023 @ 9:55 AM |
|
Try a Standard brand UC 14 coil. Larry Lange / Puget Sound Regional Group 18
|
|
| Larry Lange | -- 03-14-2023 @ 11:06 AM |
|
Try using a Standard brand "Blue Streak" UC-14 coil. It helped solve my problem. Larry Lange Puget Sound Regional Group 18
|
|
| RAK402 | -- 03-14-2023 @ 5:26 PM |
|
I have seen references to, and had people warn me about vapor lock for the last 48 years (since I purchased my 1940 Ford Sedan). I live in Southern California where it can get very hot, but have never experienced vapor lock. I have had the car fail to start for various reasons (bad repro coil several times, poor ground, etc.), but never vapor lock. This message was edited by RAK402 on 3-14-23 @ 5:29 PM
|
|
| Jacques1960 | -- 03-15-2023 @ 5:40 AM |
|
I agree with Kubes, having experienced identical symptoms with my ‘36 Phaeton. A “trip to Skip” solved the issue.
|
|
| pauls39coupe | -- 03-15-2023 @ 4:41 PM |
|
Looks like you found the problem, another bad coil, or it is mounted in a high heat area. 1942 stock coils were mounted away from contact with the head and up in the air stream behind the fan. On the other hand many coils from "the land of almost right" are short lived. As others have recommended send an original coil to Skip Haney for a rebuild. If you want to use a round can type coil , buy one from a reliable source , and mount it as far as possible from the engine heat.
|
|
| rustedorrotting | -- 03-26-2023 @ 8:44 AM |
|
years ago i was the mechanic who helped rebuild a 65 galaxy 6 cyl. While I was working on the engine, the rest of the shop worked on the rest of the car. When it was done the service manager/ owner drove it home only to find it died on the way. While I was working on engine, he replaced the gas cap. Guess what the problem was.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=16250 |