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Discussion Topic:
Fuel vapor lock
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MittieLee1935 |
02-20-2023 @ 2:27 PM
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Member
Posts: 42
Joined: Dec 2019
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My 1935 Ford starts just fine but after driving for 20 minutes quits running. After letting engine cool down it starts and runs fine for another 15 minutes then dies again and will not start until it cools down again. I thought it was the ignition coil getting hot so I bought one surrounded in oil but alas did not fix problem. I am thinking fuel is boiling in line and vapor locking.
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kubes40 |
02-20-2023 @ 4:31 PM
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Senior
Posts: 3406
Joined: Oct 2009
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Doesn't sound anything like the so called "vapor lock" to me. I'd suggest you have the authentic (Ford oem) coil rebuilt and obtain a known good quality condenser. I prefer Hunt's Magnetos for my condensers. About $30 but unlike the "hit or miss" quality of the ones you get at napa, etc., well worth it.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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carcrazy |
02-20-2023 @ 4:47 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1667
Joined: Oct 2009
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What you are experiencing is most likely a coil problem. I have bought new coils from various vendors and had them fail within 10 minutes of running. One thing you can do is buy a brand new Bosch coil for a 6 Volt VW Beetle and wire it up properly for your Ford 6V positive ground electrical system , plus (+) terminal to Distributor and minus (-) terminal to Ignition Switch.
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trjford8 |
02-21-2023 @ 7:31 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4218
Joined: Oct 2009
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It's a good possibility it is your coil. but I would also check to see if you have any crud in your gas tank. I had a similiar problem and it turned out to be a small piece of the hardening type Permatex floating around in the tank.
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JayChicago |
02-21-2023 @ 8:04 AM
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Member
Posts: 484
Joined: Jan 2016
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Since you are not sure if the problem is fuel or spark, I would suggest you do the basic quick-test to determine which. When it won't start.... With engine stopped, look down into the carburetor, move the throttle rod. You should see two squirts from the accelerator pump nozzles. If you see that, you know gas is getting to the carburetor. Remove a spark plug wire, hold it half inch from a head bolt while cranking the starter. Should see blue spark jumping the half inch gap. If you see that, you know ignition system is producing a good spark.
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40 Coupe |
02-21-2023 @ 8:06 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1678
Joined: Oct 2009
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Change the ignition condenser, they are effected by heat. When the car will not start is there spark?
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51504bat |
02-21-2023 @ 2:01 PM
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Member
Posts: 257
Joined: Apr 2020
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A long shot but take off the gas cap and see if the same problem occurs.
______________ No signature
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wmsteed |
02-28-2023 @ 10:56 AM
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Senior
Posts: 613
Joined: Oct 2009
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An unvented fuel cap can cause the same problem that is being described. check the cap to see if it says "vented" or unvented" Over 70 years ago when I purchased my '36 Ford coupe I had a similar problem which was attributed to vapor lock I finally replaced the coil. After many more knee-jerk fixes, none of which worked I read a repair manual in lieu of listening to my friends. One of the things the repair manual listed to be checked was the "Ballast Resister".. My '36 did not have one, or should I say not to my knowledge, Wrong! The Ballast Resister on a '36 Ford / which is typical of most pre '42 Fords, is located inside of the car on the cowl/sound proofing panel above the steering column.
Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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dean333 |
03-08-2023 @ 8:50 AM
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Member
Posts: 258
Joined: May 2012
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Send your coil to Skip Haney, problem solved!
TIM CARLIG
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37RAGTOPMAN |
03-09-2023 @ 6:48 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1962
Joined: Oct 2009
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FOR testing the coil and condensor on the car, drive the car till it cuts out, or will not restart then use a bag of ice on the coil and see if it will starts, if it does the coil is at falt, or possible condensor techs checking out circuits in electronics use a cold spray in a can to check condensors and others electronics hope this helps 37Ragtopman if the coil is bad send the complete distributer to SKIP for a rebuild , and be sure do the coil also, your PROBLEMS will be GONE,
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