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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Defective Fram C4 oil filter ???

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Defective Fram C4 oil filter ??? -- page: 1 2 3 4     TomO 11-11-2010 @ 7:20 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7256 Joined: Oct 2009 Grant, I am glad that your engine is back in the car and running good. Thanks for posting your solution to the problem and the lessons that you learned. One of the things that make this hobby interesting, is learning new things and relearning old things. IMHO the reason that this forum is so good is that some of us have made so many mistakes over the years and still remember them. Tom Grant 11-10-2010 @ 12:58 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 537 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks, Paul. Next we are doing the brakes, which might actually be finished this week. I haven't forgotten about your invitation, and do intend to look you fellows up some time when I get over to Michigan. Pauls39 11-10-2010 @ 5:47 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 81 Joined: Oct 2009 Grant, Glad you located the problem and were able to post back. We all learned something.I hope you enjoy your V-8 for a long time. Paul Old Henry 11-09-2010 @ 9:09 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 738 Joined: Apr 2010 Congratulations Grant! You have patiently waded through much trial and tribulation and come out the conquerer. One other lesson I have learned about noises that you may have also learned: You can often pinpoint the location and, thereby, the cause of a noise by pressing one end of a long metal rod to your ear while touching various points on the engine with the other end while it's running. It's amazing and fascinating what you can hear inside the engine with this crude stethoscope. There are even less crude engine stethoscopes commercially made for just this purpose. (Here's one for $2.90: http://www.amazon.com/MECHANICS-STETHOSCOPE-ENGINE-DIAGNOSTIC-AUTO/dp/B002A1IQ58 and others at that location for more.) As I believe you did conclude at one point in your venture - it is much better to find the location and cause of a noise before you tear into the engine than it is to try to figure it out after it's all apart. Still Old Henry This message was edited by Old Henry on 11-9-10 @ 10:42 PM Grant 11-09-2010 @ 4:58 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 537 Joined: Oct 2009 TRUE CONFESSIONS FROM THE TENTH CONCESSION What follows is an update on a long-dormant Forum topic: By mid-July, I was so disillusioned by this low-mileage '50 coupe Rouge project that other vehicles here which ran well and were reliable got driven in the interest of summer fun. The '50 engine remained on the floor under a plastic cover which had been taped in place. One day in September, I had become somewhat interested in the coupe again and was turning the engine over by hand when it became obvious that the #2 exhaust valve was sticking in a wide open position. After removing the head and taking apart that valve assembly, the spring was so weak that it could be compressed between thumb and forefinger. Shopping on Ebay produced no new old stock genuine 1950 Ford valve springs. However I did locate a box of 14 new jobber valve springs, still in the box, which were obviously quite old. Based on the likelihood that these springs were probably better (or much better) than the currently-available Chinese reproductions, four new exhaust valve springs were installed while the right cylinder head was off. Many of the recommended procedures provided here on the Forum were not followed, simply because I'm not capable of doing them. As Supereal commented, stuff like that is "better left to an experienced shop". Do we have a happy ending here ? Maybe. For the last ten days, after re-installing the engine, the '50 coupe is running very well. Our dung-dung-dung noise is gone, it starts immediately as long as the choke is pulled out, oil presure is back to 35/40 pounds at idle, and the car drives in and out of the garage with no difficulty at all. As an added bonus, both the engine and the engine compartment are now very clean and freshly painted in correct colors, much prettier than before. There likely are several lessons to be learned here: 1. always, always, do a compression check before deciding that necessary repair work includes removing the engine 2. there was in all likelihood nothing wrong with our Fram C4 oil filter 3. asking questions on this Forum is always helpful 4. never give up. I remain sincerely grateful for the assistance of everyone who was kind enough to submit their suggestions here. Regards, Grant supereal 07-18-2010 @ 9:48 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Having a problem with the fuel pump pushrod or the cam lobe upon which it rides, is unusual. The area is bathed in oil and, unless the engine is run low on oil, or the pushrod bushing is defective and allows oil pressure to decline, I wouldn't expect trouble there. Grant 07-18-2010 @ 8:00 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 537 Joined: Oct 2009 FUEL PUMP & PUSH ROD This morning I located the box in which the fuel pump and fuel pump push rod were stored. The push rod is a beauty with obviously very little use, as compared to other flathead V8 fuel pump push rods which I've seen over the years. It's dead straight with no cupping, mushrooming or significant wear at either end. The fuel pump is brand new, obtained for us by Canadian Tire through NAPA. Hand operation indicates that it seems to be working properly. If necessary the tests shown in Chapter III Section 7 of the 49/50/51 Ford shop manual will be performed. NEXT WEEK When the engine gets flipped over again onto its oil pan, I'll check the camshaft eccentric with a bright light. supereal 07-17-2010 @ 9:11 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 You likely have either a weak valve spring, or one that is broken. Sometimes it is hard to spot a broken spring, and it will require removal to check. Also, be sure to check the keeper on the lower end of the valve to be sure it isn't bent or broken. It is best to install all new valve springs when you put the engine back together. Old valve springs fail, both from fatigue and the loss of the protective coating that prevents erosion of the steel. It is also possible that the valve seat has come loose. We see that occasionally. Grant 07-17-2010 @ 7:11 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 537 Joined: Oct 2009 UPDATE: The starter was bench tested yesterday. It works fine, and is a nice clean unit in what appears to be excellent condition. On the number 4 intake valve, the horseshoe-shaped retainer moves back and forth freely. However, it cannot be pulled out by hand (I tried). The others are in place quite tightly. Why is this one loose ? Have I got one weak or sloppy valve spring ? Next week I am going to have an experienced old-timer visit to assist with further disassembly of the engine. If the camshaft gear and crankshaft gear look okay, then the heads will come off. supereal 07-16-2010 @ 6:49 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Grant: The starter drive usually isn't a cause of problems unless it was become covered with oil and dirt. It is in a place where any oil escaping from the rear main seal can be thrown onto the drive. The starter drive must be kept clean and dry. Many are tempted to lube the drive, but that only accelerates problems. If the ring gear teeth are not damaged, and the drive spring ("Bendix") is in good condition with properly secured special bolts, it should be troublefree.

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