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Discussion Topic:
Wheel Shimmy - Loose Steering Wheel
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39Fordfan |
06-04-2010 @ 8:29 PM
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New Member
Posts: 191
Joined: Oct 2009
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Hi there, I've got two issues on my '39 Fordor Deluxe. Ever since it got out of a body off restoration three years ago it has been prone to a little wheel shimmy. If I hit a manhole depression or something similar at somewhere between 15 & 30 MPH it would sometimes begin to shimmy. It always works itself out and I can help it along by either speeding up or slowing down. I've been told this is normal for these old cars and so I haven't worried about it. This Spring it has gotten more pronounced. It happens more often and at higher speeds maybe up to 40 MPH. I don't really have a clear model of what if anything I can do to tighten it up. The second issue is that the steering wheel is coming loose. You can tip the outside edge of it somewhere from 1/4" to 1/2" backwards and forwards. It is starting to mess with the horn switch and light switch inside of the steering wheel. I haven't driven it since this developed this week. I don't see how I can either take it apart to find out what broke or what needs tightening. 1) Do you think the wheel shimmy is a problem? 2) If so, how do I fix it? 3) Do you think the wheel shimmy is causing my steering wheel to loosen up? 4) How do I tighten up the steering wheel? Sorry for the long post, I am just trying to give you the most back-round possible. Thanks!
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42wagon |
06-05-2010 @ 5:00 AM
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Senior
Posts: 584
Joined: Oct 2009
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Wheel shimmy is a chronic problem with the Ford steering design. Its cause is looseness in some part of the steering train caused most likely by the work that was done during your restoration project. Raise the front wheels on a jack. Grasp the top and bottom of each wheel and try to shake them to see if the king pins have too much play. Go over the other parts of the steering gear and try to tighten the ends of the tie rod and drag link. The steering wheel is another problem. The end of the shaft in the steering column has a taper on it the fits in the steering wheel. Normally the taper is so tight that it causes problems getting the wheel off. On the end of the shaft is a nut that rests on the wheel. For your wheel to be as loose as you say it is this nut probably was not put back during the restoration. To get to it you will need to remove the horn button and light switch. Hope this helps. Ted
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TomO |
06-05-2010 @ 7:59 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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Wheel shimmy is caused by worn steering parts or unbalanced tires. When you grab the top and bottom of a front wheel, there should be very little movement, less than 1/32". If you have more than that, check the wheel bearing adjustment and check for worn king pins. You will need to buy or borrow an adapter plate to have your tires balanced.
Tom
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supereal |
06-05-2010 @ 9:34 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Check the toe-in. It should be about 1/16". Shimmy is usually set off by no or negative toe-in, and when it sets up, any loose parts in the steering system will magnify the problem. The last case of shimmy so bad the car had to stop we had was related to a badly out-of-round tire. Even on the rear, it will do it. Try overinflating the tires and/or swapping positions to see if it cures or changes the shimmy. Old bias ply tires will take a "set", causing wheel "tramp". Loose tie rod and drag link ends will make getting control difficult, and a too-tight steering gear will interfere with returning to straight ahead when the wheel is released. As you say the problem is speed-related, I'd bet on an out of balance or out of round tire. Be sure all wheels run true, and haven't been bent.
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ford38v8 |
06-05-2010 @ 10:12 AM
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Senior
Posts: 2758
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39Fordfan, It sounds like your restorer did a cosmetic restoration on your chassis, assembling without regard to correct setup. You obviously didn't get what you paid for, but forget about getting any reimbursement from him after three years. Take your car to a competent shop to have your steering gone over top to bottom. As TomO suggests, also have your tires balanced. '36-'39 wheel adapters are available through a Vendor in V8 Times. Fords are not the only vehicles prone to shimmy, not by a long shot. Any high mileage car or motorcycle can develop shimmy, and as Super says, it can continue until you come to a complete stop... hopefully not too suddenly!
Alan
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39Fordfan |
06-05-2010 @ 10:14 AM
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New Member
Posts: 191
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks for your replies... I will start looking into the wheel shimmy issue. Is there a place where I can see a schematic or a model drawing of this steering system? As for the loose steering wheel, how do I take the horn button and light switch off to either install or tighten the nut at the end of the shaft? Any tips?
This message was edited by 39Fordfan on 6-5-10 @ 10:17 AM
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supereal |
06-05-2010 @ 10:46 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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There is a full diagram of your front axle and related parts on page 75 of the "green book". If you don't have one, I can scan and post it for you. To get at the nut that holds the steering wheel, you have to drop the switch body at the lower end of the column and remove the horseshoe shaped "keeper" at the end that fits in a groove. The horn rod can then we withdrawn enough to get at the nut. In many cases, the nut is loose because someone stripped the fine threads on the shaft by overtightening or cross threading. Replacing the shaft is an extensive (and expensive) proposition., so we hope it is just loose.
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39Fordfan |
06-05-2010 @ 10:52 AM
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New Member
Posts: 191
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Great thanks to you Super. I don't have the green book you mentioned. If its not too much trouble to scan it and post it, that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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supereal |
06-05-2010 @ 10:54 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Here it is.
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supereal |
06-05-2010 @ 11:02 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Here is the steering gear. The diagram is actually for a '37, but it is similar to your '39.
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