| 39Fordfan | -- 06-04-2010 @ 8:29 PM |
|
Hi there, I've got two issues on my '39 Fordor Deluxe. Ever since it got out of a body off restoration three years ago it has been prone to a little wheel shimmy. If I hit a manhole depression or something similar at somewhere between 15 & 30 MPH it would sometimes begin to shimmy. It always works itself out and I can help it along by either speeding up or slowing down. I've been told this is normal for these old cars and so I haven't worried about it. This Spring it has gotten more pronounced. It happens more often and at higher speeds maybe up to 40 MPH. I don't really have a clear model of what if anything I can do to tighten it up. The second issue is that the steering wheel is coming loose. You can tip the outside edge of it somewhere from 1/4" to 1/2" backwards and forwards. It is starting to mess with the horn switch and light switch inside of the steering wheel. I haven't driven it since this developed this week. I don't see how I can either take it apart to find out what broke or what needs tightening. 1) Do you think the wheel shimmy is a problem? 2) If so, how do I fix it? 3) Do you think the wheel shimmy is causing my steering wheel to loosen up? 4) How do I tighten up the steering wheel? Sorry for the long post, I am just trying to give you the most back-round possible. Thanks!
|
|
| 42wagon | -- 06-05-2010 @ 5:00 AM |
|
Wheel shimmy is a chronic problem with the Ford steering design. Its cause is looseness in some part of the steering train caused most likely by the work that was done during your restoration project. Raise the front wheels on a jack. Grasp the top and bottom of each wheel and try to shake them to see if the king pins have too much play. Go over the other parts of the steering gear and try to tighten the ends of the tie rod and drag link. The steering wheel is another problem. The end of the shaft in the steering column has a taper on it the fits in the steering wheel. Normally the taper is so tight that it causes problems getting the wheel off. On the end of the shaft is a nut that rests on the wheel. For your wheel to be as loose as you say it is this nut probably was not put back during the restoration. To get to it you will need to remove the horn button and light switch. Hope this helps. Ted
|
|
| TomO | -- 06-05-2010 @ 7:59 AM |
|
Wheel shimmy is caused by worn steering parts or unbalanced tires. When you grab the top and bottom of a front wheel, there should be very little movement, less than 1/32". If you have more than that, check the wheel bearing adjustment and check for worn king pins. You will need to buy or borrow an adapter plate to have your tires balanced. Tom
|
|
| supereal | -- 06-05-2010 @ 9:34 AM |
|
Check the toe-in. It should be about 1/16". Shimmy is usually set off by no or negative toe-in, and when it sets up, any loose parts in the steering system will magnify the problem. The last case of shimmy so bad the car had to stop we had was related to a badly out-of-round tire. Even on the rear, it will do it. Try overinflating the tires and/or swapping positions to see if it cures or changes the shimmy. Old bias ply tires will take a "set", causing wheel "tramp". Loose tie rod and drag link ends will make getting control difficult, and a too-tight steering gear will interfere with returning to straight ahead when the wheel is released. As you say the problem is speed-related, I'd bet on an out of balance or out of round tire. Be sure all wheels run true, and haven't been bent.
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 06-05-2010 @ 10:12 AM |
|
39Fordfan, It sounds like your restorer did a cosmetic restoration on your chassis, assembling without regard to correct setup. You obviously didn't get what you paid for, but forget about getting any reimbursement from him after three years. Take your car to a competent shop to have your steering gone over top to bottom. As TomO suggests, also have your tires balanced. '36-'39 wheel adapters are available through a Vendor in V8 Times. Fords are not the only vehicles prone to shimmy, not by a long shot. Any high mileage car or motorcycle can develop shimmy, and as Super says, it can continue until you come to a complete stop... hopefully not too suddenly! Alan
|
|
| 39Fordfan | -- 06-05-2010 @ 10:14 AM |
|
Thanks for your replies... I will start looking into the wheel shimmy issue. Is there a place where I can see a schematic or a model drawing of this steering system? As for the loose steering wheel, how do I take the horn button and light switch off to either install or tighten the nut at the end of the shaft? Any tips? This message was edited by 39Fordfan on 6-5-10 @ 10:17 AM
|
|
| supereal | -- 06-05-2010 @ 10:46 AM |
|
There is a full diagram of your front axle and related parts on page 75 of the "green book". If you don't have one, I can scan and post it for you. To get at the nut that holds the steering wheel, you have to drop the switch body at the lower end of the column and remove the horseshoe shaped "keeper" at the end that fits in a groove. The horn rod can then we withdrawn enough to get at the nut. In many cases, the nut is loose because someone stripped the fine threads on the shaft by overtightening or cross threading. Replacing the shaft is an extensive (and expensive) proposition., so we hope it is just loose.
|
|
| 39Fordfan | -- 06-05-2010 @ 10:52 AM |
|
Great thanks to you Super. I don't have the green book you mentioned. If its not too much trouble to scan it and post it, that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
|
|
| supereal | -- 06-05-2010 @ 10:54 AM |
|
Here it is.
|
|
| supereal | -- 06-05-2010 @ 11:02 AM |
|
Here is the steering gear. The diagram is actually for a '37, but it is similar to your '39.
|
|
| supereal | -- 06-05-2010 @ 11:15 AM |
|
One final thought: Be sure that the steering box is fastened securely to the frame, particularly if the body-off restoration required lowering the steering column. My '47 had a loose steering problem, and after much head scratching, I found that loose steering box bolts allowed the box to wiggle on the frame.
|
|
| shogun1940 | -- 06-05-2010 @ 6:17 PM |
|
when your checking the sterring box, put the wheels straight ahead, then loosen the nut on the top there should be a screw to tightnen up the steering, tightnen it up then backoff ahalf aturn, then just snug up the screw easily hold it and tighnen up the nut. Now check the pitman arm it shoulbe even with the tie rod that connects the two wheels, the arc has to be even or you will get bump steer good luck
|
|
| trjford8 | -- 06-06-2010 @ 7:59 AM |
|
In addition to all the other good advice check the wishbone where it attaches at the center crossmember. Make sure the cap is tight. Also check to see if the rubber cover for the wishbone ball is in good shape. A lose cap or misssing/damaged ball will add to the problem.
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 06-08-2010 @ 5:03 AM |
|
When you had a ground up restoration you should have a bill ,ON what Exactly was Done, a list of parts that was replaced, did they replace the king pins, tierods end,draglink, rebuild steering box,or just ajust steering box, a bad sector shaft bushing and rock to the pitman arm will add to shimmy, it straight ahead position how much play in steering from side to side,,??? rebuilt shocks, shock links, wheel alignment,? also loose wheel bearing will effect the front end,and will not get a accurate wheel alignment with loose ones, it could be what super said, the tires from just sitting get flat spots, and will shake the car for a few miles before they smooth out, KEEP ON TRUCKIN 37 RAGTOPMAN
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=1343 |