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Discussion Topic:
Fuel line plugged
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TomO |
09-30-2018 @ 7:51 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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The first time that I sealed a tank was in 1975 and I sloshed it around with several coats to get a nice solid covering. I let the tank sit empty over the winter and put it in the car in the spring. In the fall of 1976, I had yellow spaghetti in my fule lines and yellow curtains in the tank. I took it back to the stripper to have it stripped again and he told that he had done many tanks the second time because the coating was too thick. when I got the tank back, I followed his recommendation to just use one coat and slush the coating around several times, leaving enough time in each position to allow the coating to flow over the surface. That coating lasted until I had it removed in 2004, because I was concerned that the yellow coating was not ethanol resistant and it would start peeling. IMHO:Thin coats seem to last longer and will protect the tank. Thick coats may not cure properly and tend to fail sooner.
Tom
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woodiewagon46 |
09-29-2018 @ 10:09 AM
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Senior
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Tom O, I read your post and you only used a 1/2 pint to seal a Lincoln gas tank? Everyone I have talked to said a quart isn't enough and to use a minimum of 3 quarts to get entire coverage! Even when I talked to the people at Bill Hirsch, they recommended two!
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mzahorik |
09-29-2018 @ 7:08 AM
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Posts: 209
Joined: Nov 2009
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A filter is a good idea, yet most of the clog was in the pickup pipe of the tank. Seems the the steel lines have a large diameter than any of the connections. At a connection point the hole necks down and this is where the blockage seems to occur. The drain of the last wash was nearly clear. The borescope inspect looks good. I want to blow out the fuel line to be sure that is also clear. All seems to be good. MIke
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woodiewagon46 |
09-28-2018 @ 3:41 PM
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Posts: 704
Joined: Nov 2012
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I would also install a throw away filter as close to the tank as possible to catch anything that might be left in the tank. I would use the car for a while and replace the filter a couple of times. Sounds like you are doing a good job with the acetone, I think that's what I'll try with this Model A tank.
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mzahorik |
09-28-2018 @ 12:13 PM
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Posts: 209
Joined: Nov 2009
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I do two rinses in a row, 1/2 gallon each. Did one today, and there still is a milky tinge to the drain. Figure I'll do one more. I don't have a 'smart phone'. Mine still hangs on the wall. I spend my money on cars. Anyway a mechanic friend has a bore scope which I used in the past. You connect it to a lap top, so you get a big picture. Getting close to being done. Mike
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TomO |
09-28-2018 @ 7:03 AM
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Mike, acetone works better if you do not let the paint dry out between applications. There are inexpensive inspection cameras that connect to a smart phone if you use one. They run less than $25 and work good enough to see if there is any residue left.
Tom
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woodiewagon46 |
09-27-2018 @ 5:41 PM
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If you can find someone with a bore scope to take a good look inside I would borrow it. You want to get all that stuff out. One little piece can ruin the day.
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mzahorik |
09-27-2018 @ 1:38 PM
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Posts: 209
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Today, first I tried to remove as much of the sealer as I could from the sender hole. You can see the fuel pickup and there was a large piece of loose sealer around the pickup. I got that out and then pushed a wire into the fuel line port. A sausage of old sealer came out. Maybe 1/4" in diameter and 6 inches long. I purchased a gallon of acetone and put about 1/2 of it in the tank. Sealed all the holes and sloshed it around for 5 minutes. I looked in the tank and most of the old sealer had dissolved. I drained the acetone and it came out a dark milky color, started out clear. Then the other half was put in the tank and sloshed around for 5 minutes. Now the areas that I can see are clean. Draining the acetone was still milky, but more like water not as opaque. I think I'll let the tank air out and do this again tomorrow or later. Mike
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TomO |
09-27-2018 @ 7:18 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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Mike, The tank was initially coated with a tin-lead alloy (tern) to prevent rusting. If you do not coat the tank, it will start rusting as soon as you finish cleaning it, if the original coating has been compromised. The current Ethanol blend of fuel is very corrosive and any air space will add oxygen needed to assist in the corrosion. The coating that is floating around in your tank failed because of improper procedure in applying it. The coating is like paint. The surface must be clean, the film should not be too thick and the coating should be completely cured before use. I used Bill Hirsch's coating in both of my cars gas tanks and have had no problem with either of them. Acetone will not dissolve his coating if it is cured. The only chemical that softens it is Methyl-Ethyl-Keytone. I still have a couple of drops on my driveway from 2003 when I did my Mercury tank. A thin coat is all that you need. My Lincoln tank too about 1/2 pint to seal it. The Mercury tank took a little less. When you coat the tank, rotate it in all directions slowly, letting it sit in each position long enough for the coating to cover the surface, about 2 minutes. Do this several times and then remove the drain plug and let the excess drain out. If you want to, you can repeat the coating process with the product that drained out according to the instructions. I let the product cure about twice as long as the instructions say.
Tom
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MG |
09-26-2018 @ 3:18 PM
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Posts: 1261
Joined: Nov 2009
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Mike - When you order the floats you should order a couple of the lead washers to seal the bond between the cast seat of the tank and the filler neck - if this is the arrangement you have. These washers can be purchased from MAC's as well. See > https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/gas-tank-washer-lead-ford-passenger.html
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