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Discussion Topic:
removing alum head "36"
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ken ct. |
05-04-2017 @ 6:15 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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Got any sure fire way to get head off short of removing all the studs.Have tried the puller tool and it just lifts the upper 1/2 of the head about 1/8" but will not lift evenly as the bottom of head is still stuck. Jamming on studs or stuck to block ?????? Not sure. Cannot get a wedge started on the bottom parting line of the block an head. HELP ken ct.
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carcrazy |
05-04-2017 @ 10:24 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1655
Joined: Oct 2009
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If the engine runs, one thing you can do is have all of the nuts on the studs loosened a few turns before cranking the engine over with the starter motor. If this doesn't pop the heads loose, turn on the ignition and attempt to start the engine.
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Stroker |
05-05-2017 @ 11:59 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ken, I've used carcrazy's method when removing stuck aftermarket aluminum heads in the past. Usually, the "problem" is that the steel studs and the aluminum surrounding them have bonded along their length over time due to electrolysis. The resulting corrosion tends to fill the space between the stud and the head, and given that there are 21 of those, it all sort of adds up. If your 36 is running, I'd also put it in high gear with the e-brake set, to provide a little more combustion pressure if they don't immediately come loose.
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ken ct. |
05-05-2017 @ 1:22 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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The top of engine is off ,I would have to reinstall all back to try it. Any other ideas ??? ken ct. I have wedged the top 1/2 of the head a few times an 1/8" and bolted back down but tried to get wedges in the bottom 1/2 not much room to do this at the bottom edge.!! ken ct.
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shogun1940 |
05-05-2017 @ 2:34 PM
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Member
Posts: 464
Joined: Feb 2010
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The head is al and the Corrosion is aloh aluminum hydroxide or something similar ,, so how about vinegar or another weak acid??? Just a thought
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keith oh |
05-05-2017 @ 5:41 PM
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New Member
Posts: 116
Joined: May 2010
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Try the old closeline rope method, stuff some down the plug holes and let the pistons shove head up by turning the engine over with crank or a breaker bar on crank nut. another method is to go hardware store and get a hole saw that barely fits over the studs and gently saw out the crud between stud and head. Have used both methods they work.
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ken ct. |
05-05-2017 @ 6:23 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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I know about the rope trick,some say its a good way to bend a or more when doing this ??? Is there a hole saw close to the OD of the stud anle can you reuse the head after oversizing the stud holes in the head. (bend rods) ?? I will mike the OD of the studs and see what I can find. Thanks ken ct. They use to make a tool for that,i even posted an ad on here looking to buy or rent one from a member on here no luck !!
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carcrazy |
05-05-2017 @ 8:05 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1655
Joined: Oct 2009
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Another trick you can try is to heat up the studs with a propane torch until they get red and apply a beeswax candle to the studs so that the molten beeswax can flow down between the aluminum head and the studs. When melted the beeswax becomes less viscus than water.
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ken ct. |
05-05-2017 @ 10:18 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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That's a good one carcrazy thanks. Havent tried that one.Will a propane torch heat a stud red ??? ken ct.
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42wagon |
05-06-2017 @ 3:11 AM
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Senior
Posts: 584
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ken Along the lines of what Keith Oh is suggesting there is a guy here in Connecticut that makes tools for removing broken wood screws. Talk to him, Perhaps he can make a tool to go down between the stud and head. Tom @ 1-860-464-9485 Unscrew UMs T&L Tools 24 Vinegar Hill Road Gales Ferry, CT 06335
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