| ken ct. | -- 05-04-2017 @ 6:15 PM |
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Got any sure fire way to get head off short of removing all the studs.Have tried the puller tool and it just lifts the upper 1/2 of the head about 1/8" but will not lift evenly as the bottom of head is still stuck. Jamming on studs or stuck to block ?????? Not sure. Cannot get a wedge started on the bottom parting line of the block an head. HELP ken ct.
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| carcrazy | -- 05-04-2017 @ 10:24 PM |
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If the engine runs, one thing you can do is have all of the nuts on the studs loosened a few turns before cranking the engine over with the starter motor. If this doesn't pop the heads loose, turn on the ignition and attempt to start the engine.
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| Stroker | -- 05-05-2017 @ 11:59 AM |
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Ken, I've used carcrazy's method when removing stuck aftermarket aluminum heads in the past. Usually, the "problem" is that the steel studs and the aluminum surrounding them have bonded along their length over time due to electrolysis. The resulting corrosion tends to fill the space between the stud and the head, and given that there are 21 of those, it all sort of adds up. If your 36 is running, I'd also put it in high gear with the e-brake set, to provide a little more combustion pressure if they don't immediately come loose.
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| ken ct. | -- 05-05-2017 @ 1:22 PM |
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The top of engine is off ,I would have to reinstall all back to try it. Any other ideas ??? ken ct. I have wedged the top 1/2 of the head a few times an 1/8" and bolted back down but tried to get wedges in the bottom 1/2 not much room to do this at the bottom edge.!! ken ct.
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| shogun1940 | -- 05-05-2017 @ 2:34 PM |
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The head is al and the Corrosion is aloh aluminum hydroxide or something similar ,, so how about vinegar or another weak acid??? Just a thought
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| keith oh | -- 05-05-2017 @ 5:41 PM |
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Try the old closeline rope method, stuff some down the plug holes and let the pistons shove head up by turning the engine over with crank or a breaker bar on crank nut. another method is to go hardware store and get a hole saw that barely fits over the studs and gently saw out the crud between stud and head. Have used both methods they work.
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| ken ct. | -- 05-05-2017 @ 6:23 PM |
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I know about the rope trick,some say its a good way to bend a or more when doing this ??? Is there a hole saw close to the OD of the stud anle can you reuse the head after oversizing the stud holes in the head. (bend rods) ?? I will mike the OD of the studs and see what I can find. Thanks ken ct. They use to make a tool for that,i even posted an ad on here looking to buy or rent one from a member on here no luck !!
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| carcrazy | -- 05-05-2017 @ 8:05 PM |
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Another trick you can try is to heat up the studs with a propane torch until they get red and apply a beeswax candle to the studs so that the molten beeswax can flow down between the aluminum head and the studs. When melted the beeswax becomes less viscus than water.
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| ken ct. | -- 05-05-2017 @ 10:18 PM |
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That's a good one carcrazy thanks. Havent tried that one.Will a propane torch heat a stud red ??? ken ct.
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| 42wagon | -- 05-06-2017 @ 3:11 AM |
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Ken Along the lines of what Keith Oh is suggesting there is a guy here in Connecticut that makes tools for removing broken wood screws. Talk to him, Perhaps he can make a tool to go down between the stud and head. Tom @ 1-860-464-9485 Unscrew UMs T&L Tools 24 Vinegar Hill Road Gales Ferry, CT 06335
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| keith oh | -- 05-06-2017 @ 1:43 PM |
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THE FOORD HEAD STUD drills are 7/16 ID and 1/2 OD that makes the wall only 1/32 thick. I believe someone had a set of them on fordbarn you might look up.
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| carcrazy | -- 05-06-2017 @ 2:07 PM |
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ken.ct, You can heat the head studs to a dark dull red color with the propane torch. Don't get them any hotter or you may start to melt the aluminum heads in the areas near the studs.
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| 40cpe | -- 05-06-2017 @ 2:26 PM |
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Here ya go. G.M. on the Fordbarn has the drill https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187793&highlight=stud+drill post #11 This message was edited by 40cpe on 5-6-17 @ 2:27 PM
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| shogun1940 | -- 05-06-2017 @ 2:42 PM |
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IF YOU USE A TORCH AC/O2 ,,CARBOIZE THE HEAD WITH ACETYLENE . IT BURNS OFF AT 800 DEGEEES AL MELTS AT 1100 DEGREES.
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| 1934 Ford | -- 05-06-2017 @ 5:25 PM |
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Here is what I've been doing for 45 years. although it may not be Ford approved. #1 Take an old spark plug out and break the porcelain out of the center and break off the firing tip. #2 Insert a 1/4" threaded rod through the empty spark plug. #3 Round the corners of a 1/4" nut and put it on the end of the threaded rod. #4 Put the other end of the threaded rod in your slap hammer and put another nut on top of the plug. #5 Insert the end with the rounded nut into the spark plug hole in the head. #6 Use the slap hammer to nudge the head upward by slapping the hammer gently, #7 Don't be afraid to change spark plug holes to lift the head evenly. Then save the tool you made because owning a Ford flat head V8, the tool will probable be needed again in the future or for the other head.. 1934 Ford's since 1972 This message was edited by 1934 Ford on 5-6-17 @ 5:27 PM
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| ken ct. | -- 05-06-2017 @ 10:39 PM |
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34 ford I use a similer too which threads into the plug holes and has another leg that rests on a lower stud,problem is it pulled uo from off set plug holes so top edge of head lifted up approx. 3/16" but wont lift the bottom edge,your method would probably do the same thing. Plugs on a FH are NOT in the center of head. It lifts the head cockeyed. Thanks for the suggestion anyhow. ken ct.
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| 1934 Ford | -- 05-07-2017 @ 6:34 AM |
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I guess I should added Step #8: Use pry tools to help lift the head evenly. 1934 Ford's since 1972
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| TomO | -- 05-07-2017 @ 4:32 PM |
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Ken, it may be that your head is free enough from the studs so that you can drive a wooden wedge down the sides of the heads to even them out. With the cast iron heads, I just use a scr*per to pry up on the heads. I wpould be afraid to use it on aluminum heads as the scr*per might damage the head sealing surface. Tom
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| ken ct. | -- 05-07-2017 @ 5:10 PM |
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I'm going to try that tomorrow thanks Tom. ken ct.
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| 42wagon | -- 05-08-2017 @ 6:53 AM |
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Ken Here's another thought. Is it possible that by raising the top edge of the head you have cocked it so that it is binding on the lower edge studs. Would it make sense to put something thin as low down as possible on the sides of the head and then put nuts back on the topside studs and tighten them thereby rocking the head and raising the bottom edge of the head?
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| ken ct. | -- 05-08-2017 @ 7:00 AM |
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I was thinking of that,worth a try I guess,thanks for the tip. ken ct. I'm getting no where as it is !!
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| ken ct. | -- 05-08-2017 @ 10:31 AM |
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That's what I'm going to try and do. ken ct.
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| Stroker | -- 05-10-2017 @ 8:05 AM |
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Ken: I was thinking about your problem last night, and came up with a possible solution. If there are only a few studs that are "cementing" the heads, consider marking the exposed ends of the studs with Dye-Chem or a permanent felt-tip pen and scribing a "index line" across the top for reference. Take a pair of thin jam-nuts, (like are used on race-car suspension "Heim ends") and use them to "grip" the stud. Carefully rotate the stud in the block a few degrees left and right. That should break the "bond' between the studs and the surrounding aluminum hole perhaps enough to allow removal. The big "IF" of course is whether the previous engine re-builder properly installed the studs in the block with good old-fashioned white lead, or "better" new-fashioned anti-seize compound. If so, you should be able to twist the studs fairly easily. If the klutz just stuck them in "dry" you may not be able to get enough "grip" with the jam nuts to move them.
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