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Discussion Topic:
removing alum head "36"
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Stroker |
05-10-2017 @ 8:05 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ken: I was thinking about your problem last night, and came up with a possible solution. If there are only a few studs that are "cementing" the heads, consider marking the exposed ends of the studs with Dye-Chem or a permanent felt-tip pen and scribing a "index line" across the top for reference. Take a pair of thin jam-nuts, (like are used on race-car suspension "Heim ends") and use them to "grip" the stud. Carefully rotate the stud in the block a few degrees left and right. That should break the "bond' between the studs and the surrounding aluminum hole perhaps enough to allow removal. The big "IF" of course is whether the previous engine re-builder properly installed the studs in the block with good old-fashioned white lead, or "better" new-fashioned anti-seize compound. If so, you should be able to twist the studs fairly easily. If the klutz just stuck them in "dry" you may not be able to get enough "grip" with the jam nuts to move them.
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ken ct. |
05-08-2017 @ 10:31 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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That's what I'm going to try and do. ken ct.
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ken ct. |
05-08-2017 @ 7:00 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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I was thinking of that,worth a try I guess,thanks for the tip. ken ct. I'm getting no where as it is !!
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42wagon |
05-08-2017 @ 6:53 AM
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Senior
Posts: 584
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ken Here's another thought. Is it possible that by raising the top edge of the head you have cocked it so that it is binding on the lower edge studs. Would it make sense to put something thin as low down as possible on the sides of the head and then put nuts back on the topside studs and tighten them thereby rocking the head and raising the bottom edge of the head?
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ken ct. |
05-07-2017 @ 5:10 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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I'm going to try that tomorrow thanks Tom. ken ct.
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TomO |
05-07-2017 @ 4:32 PM
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Senior
Posts: 7252
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ken, it may be that your head is free enough from the studs so that you can drive a wooden wedge down the sides of the heads to even them out. With the cast iron heads, I just use a scr*per to pry up on the heads. I wpould be afraid to use it on aluminum heads as the scr*per might damage the head sealing surface.
Tom
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1934 Ford |
05-07-2017 @ 6:34 AM
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Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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I guess I should added Step #8: Use pry tools to help lift the head evenly.
1934 Ford's since 1972
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ken ct. |
05-06-2017 @ 10:39 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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34 ford I use a similer too which threads into the plug holes and has another leg that rests on a lower stud,problem is it pulled uo from off set plug holes so top edge of head lifted up approx. 3/16" but wont lift the bottom edge,your method would probably do the same thing. Plugs on a FH are NOT in the center of head. It lifts the head cockeyed. Thanks for the suggestion anyhow. ken ct.
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1934 Ford |
05-06-2017 @ 5:25 PM
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Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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Here is what I've been doing for 45 years. although it may not be Ford approved. #1 Take an old spark plug out and break the porcelain out of the center and break off the firing tip. #2 Insert a 1/4" threaded rod through the empty spark plug. #3 Round the corners of a 1/4" nut and put it on the end of the threaded rod. #4 Put the other end of the threaded rod in your slap hammer and put another nut on top of the plug. #5 Insert the end with the rounded nut into the spark plug hole in the head. #6 Use the slap hammer to nudge the head upward by slapping the hammer gently, #7 Don't be afraid to change spark plug holes to lift the head evenly. Then save the tool you made because owning a Ford flat head V8, the tool will probable be needed again in the future or for the other head.. 1934 Ford's since 1972
This message was edited by 1934 Ford on 5-6-17 @ 5:27 PM
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shogun1940 |
05-06-2017 @ 2:42 PM
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Member
Posts: 464
Joined: Feb 2010
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IF YOU USE A TORCH AC/O2 ,,CARBOIZE THE HEAD WITH ACETYLENE . IT BURNS OFF AT 800 DEGEEES AL MELTS AT 1100 DEGREES.
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