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Discussion Topic:
1933 Ford 5 window Deluxe questions
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1934 Ford |
03-25-2017 @ 5:46 PM
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Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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metlow, Interesting thread. Welcome and good luck in your search. Please keep us posted as to what you end up with in the the Early V8 Ford World. Most of us think of them a fun and do our best to keep them as good as they can be, not an investment. I've paid for what I like and generally keep them long after the shock of the purchase price is lost to history. I agree with the advice you've received, but I know your desire will tell you in the end which car to buy. Keep us in the loop.
1934 Ford's since 1972
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mtelow |
03-23-2017 @ 3:24 PM
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Member
Posts: 16
Joined: May 2015
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All excellent points....Thank You.
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supereal |
03-23-2017 @ 11:20 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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In addition to my friend Tom's advice, be sure that a valid, current title is being offered with any car. Even so, double check with the issuing agency to be sure it is real, and that no liens have been attached. I found that out the hard way many years ago when a title search turned up four liens after the sale, and it took months to run down the holders, any one of whom could have made a claim on the car if they were aware and demanded payment or possession of the vehicle. I was lucky, and will never consider a purchase based on the presumed owner without verification.
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trjford8 |
03-22-2017 @ 7:33 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4220
Joined: Oct 2009
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mtelow, in addition to Steve's good advice check e-Bay. look at the "completed items" section. It will give you an idea of what has been bid on items when the auction ended. Again this can be used as a guide. Also take a look at this website; www.cars-on-line.com. Cars are listed by year and you'll see what is for sale and what has sold. It doesn't give the "sold" price, but you can get a pretty good idea of the market.
This message was edited by trjford8 on 3-22-17 @ 7:35 AM
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len47merc |
03-21-2017 @ 5:44 PM
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Posts: 1165
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Remember it's no more than a 'guide'. The best resources are still the 33/34 book plus a colleague & seasoned veteran's 2nd set of eyes and knowledge. You'll be able to hone in on whether it's a 2, 2 1/2, 2 3/4, 3, etc., with these two. Btw - when you get the book check out the fine, simple details in the book against the car, like, for instance, what color the head bolts should be for a car 'list-priced' as non-driven, Concourse grade 950+ point show car. It still looks like a very, very nice driver and may be worth the/a negotiated price to the right person, perhaps even you, if it meets your vision, needs and especially pocketbook. If an investment, given the market, again IMHO trjford8 is close to, if not on, the mark and if paying much more than that you'll likely struggle down the road to recapture your full original investment. Best of luck -
Steve
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mtelow |
03-21-2017 @ 4:44 PM
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Posts: 16
Joined: May 2015
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A Big Thanks to all that have taken the time to reply. I forgot about the collector car price guide. I'll pick one up the next chance I get.
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len47merc |
03-21-2017 @ 7:48 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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mtelow - I'll let others more conversant in the '33s weigh in with their thoughts on the values you quoted. To perhaps help you with another angle - there are price 'guides' for collector & vintage cars that you can resource to help you with your decision. I will quote one here - that being the 2016 Collector Car Price Guide which gives 'ballpark' prices that fall within a reasonable range of each car's value to buyers and sellers. Some people swear by these guides, others loathe them - you'll have to be your own judge but know that a future buyer of your car may likely quote one or more of these in their negotiations. This guide grades cars in increasing quality from a low of 6 to a high of 1. Each step has a description - I will quote 3, 2 & 1 for you here: A car rating as a '3' is stated as 'VERY GOOD: Completely operable original or "older restoration" showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus, combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components or a partially restored vehicle with all parts necessary to complete and/or valuable NOS parts'. A car rating as a '2' is stated as 'FINE: Well-restored, or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original. Also, an EXTREMELY well-maintained original showing very minimal wear'. A car rating as a '1' is stated as 'EXCELLENT: Restored to current maximum professional standards of quality in every area, or perfect original with components operating and appearing as new. A 95-plus (or in EFV8 terms 950-plus) point show vehicle that is not driven'. Now, given these three ratings, you make the decision as to where your car falls given the departures from original others have noted and then know that the Price Guide shows for a 1933 2D 5W Cpe the prices gleaned from sales, auctions and other pricing resources are $26,330 for a '3', $40,950 for a '2' and $58,500 for a '1'. If it can be called a Deluxe Coupe you can bump those figures up about 2% each. Again, there are other price guides out there that can help you with your purchase. Hope this helps - EDIT - from looking through additional pricing resources and integrating the observations of others herein, one would likely conclude trjford8's value range estimate from a couple of days back is pretty close to on the mark. Steve
This message was edited by len47merc on 3-21-17 @ 8:28 AM
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trjford8 |
03-21-2017 @ 7:21 AM
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In my humble opinion the seller is dreaming at $54,000. He'll be sitting on this one for a real long time. I would continue to look around if you want a more original car. I think you can probably find a better car for $45,000 if you are patient.
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mtelow |
03-21-2017 @ 6:38 AM
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Joined: May 2015
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Thank You to everyone who replied. The owner is asking 54K. I'm still trying to decide if I can live with just a driver, or wait and look for a more correct car that I can enter into some local shows. In its present condition, would 45K be a fair offer to buyer and seller?
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3w2 |
03-20-2017 @ 8:23 PM
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With respect, just because the engine has cast iron heads, a later water pump, and later intake manifold,etc., does not mean that the engine needs to be replaced, at least based on the photos provided, which among other things show a '33-'34 oil pan, not a later one. The components, sure, but not necessarily the engine itself. One other negative is that the color of the rumble seat upholstery is incorrect as it should be copra drab (a dark olive green color).
This message was edited by 3w2 on 3-20-17 @ 8:25 PM
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