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Discussion Topic:
37 cowl vent hinge p/n
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TomO |
01-14-2017 @ 8:55 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7264
Joined: Oct 2009
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Gregg, I would look for a small job machine shop and have them make you one from brass. Steel will wear out the hard to find arm and will be noisy during operation. The brass will wear before the steel and will remain quiet in operation for its full life. I have had small parts made by different machine shops over the years and most of them have been small cash deals or a case of beer. Some of them were made just so the shop owner could have a ride in the car.
Tom
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1937sedandelivery |
01-12-2017 @ 8:12 PM
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Senior
Posts: 501
Joined: Jul 2014
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ah, I will buy that...would also buy a roller if I could find one in good shape. I am thinking I will make one, starting from a bolt with the correct (or close) OD, then drill it out for the correct ID. Grind it to the correct thickness and voila! will see how it really goes. Thanks! gregg
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40 Coupe |
01-12-2017 @ 4:52 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1685
Joined: Oct 2009
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I can only guess, it was because steel would eventually rust and seize onto the shaft. There is a possibility for a bit of moisture in the cowl vent operating mechanism area???
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1937sedandelivery |
01-11-2017 @ 7:16 AM
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Senior
Posts: 501
Joined: Jul 2014
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Darn. I will have to find a lathe friend. It seems like steel would have been a better choice than brass for this part. Do you know why Henry did brass? Thanks, gregg
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40 Coupe |
01-11-2017 @ 3:48 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1685
Joined: Oct 2009
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The roller is not reproduced and used originals are usually worn out. 48-700615, Yellow brass, 0.400" O.D, 0.275" I.D, 0.100 W. Nice little job for a manual lathe.
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1937sedandelivery |
01-10-2017 @ 8:35 PM
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Senior
Posts: 501
Joined: Jul 2014
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Hi 40 Coupe, You are right on. The nut is a castle nut, and yes, there is a hole in the shaft for a cotter pin. Bingo, I don't need the lock washer and things just got a bit more accurate, much appreciated. To boot, I do need the brass roller and can nowhere find one. I am going to the Big3 swap meet in San Diego and it is on my list. I would be game for an aftermarket version but can't find anybody that carries it. Thanks, Gregg
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1937sedandelivery |
01-10-2017 @ 8:35 PM
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Senior
Posts: 501
Joined: Jul 2014
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Hi 40 Coupe, You are right on. The nut is a castle nut, and yes, there is a hole in the shaft for a cotter pin. Bingo, I don't need the lock washer and things just got a bit more accurate, much appreciated. To boot, I do need the brass roller and can nowhere find one. I am going to the Big3 swap meet in San Diego and it is on my list. I would be game for an aftermarket version but can't find anybody that carries it. Thanks, Gregg
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40 Coupe |
01-10-2017 @ 3:37 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1685
Joined: Oct 2009
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If the nut for the tension spring and friction washers is a 48- style it should be a slotted hex or castle style and the stud on the hinge may have a hole at the end both for a cotter pin?? I believe your also missing a brass roller 48-700615 to fit over the shaft and inside the slot of the linkage rod?
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40 Coupe |
01-10-2017 @ 3:37 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1685
Joined: Oct 2009
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If the nut for the tension spring and friction washers is a 48- style it should be a slotted hex or castle style and the stud on the hinge may have a hole at the end both for a cotter pin?? If so there will not be a lock washer under the nut. I believe your also missing a brass roller 48-700615 to fit over the shaft and inside the slot of the linkage rod?
This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 1-10-17 @ 3:42 AM
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1937sedandelivery |
01-09-2017 @ 8:01 AM
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Senior
Posts: 501
Joined: Jul 2014
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Thanks MG, I believe you are correct. That certainly makes sense and fills in the gap. Now I can move on to searching for all the other p/n's. I am attempting to document (photo & p/n) every part in my car. Your help saves me time, gregg
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