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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Does This Radiator Look Original?

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Discussion Topic: Does This Radiator Look Original? -- page: 1 2

39Fordfan

01-12-2017 @ 3:42 PM

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I've posted a picture of the fan side of the radiator that I pulled out of my '39 Deluxe yesterday.

We have one radiator repair shop in the Twin Cities that will do an old brass radiator that I am aware of. When I took it to them today the guy thought it had been re-cored (incorrectly as Henry built it) sometime in the past.

Specifically, he thought the cores should fill the inside slot between the split above the hole for the crank. On the outside there is a piece of solid metal about an inch wide that covers the gap between the cores, but has a hole to allow for the crank. And he also thought it should have finer fins then the one I've got.

This is a very original car. But not a show car. He said he is not an expert on old Fords and would look into it for me, and let me know before proceeding.

Depending on what he thinks, I am thinking to re-core it, rather than repair it.

Out of curiosity, I thought I would ask the Ford experts here for your opinions. What do you think of the originality of this radiator? Thanks!

This message was edited by 39Fordfan on 1-12-17 @ 3:47 PM

39Fordfan

01-12-2017 @ 3:51 PM

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This the fan-side of the radiator top side up. I'm not sure how to correct the picture above, that is upside down...

This message was edited by 39Fordfan on 1-12-17 @ 3:53 PM

trjford8

01-12-2017 @ 4:57 PM

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That's a "ribbon fin" core. The originals had a "straight fin" core.

This message was edited by trjford8 on 1-12-17 @ 4:57 PM

40 Coupe

01-13-2017 @ 4:27 AM

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Ford had a couple of suppliers for radiators, so not every radiator is identical. Your radiator looks correct. split core is good along with the one sheet metal insert pictured in the split, the position of the cap. The metal channel for the light harness looks correct also, but it is usually mounted slightly lower. Many have a stamping in the top tank, under the cap, on the engine side, 91A. The soldered on tag in the center of the top tank is only a sign the radiator was worked on at one time.

This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 1-13-17 @ 4:31 AM

JT Ford

01-13-2017 @ 6:47 AM

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How much to re-core it?

kubes40

01-13-2017 @ 7:26 AM

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I agree with Alan in that this one has been re-cored at some point. It is not authentic.
I have my radiators done locally for around $500 each.
I take the tanks and brackets home, restore them and return to be installed to the new cores.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth

deluxe40

01-13-2017 @ 7:40 PM

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Here's one I bought at a swap meet years ago. I believe it's original.

39Fordfan

01-14-2017 @ 10:49 AM

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You guys are great! Thank-you for all of your responses, it really helps to have all available information.

Thanks, Trjford. I'm thinking this guy will re-core it with the straight fins.

Thanks 40Coupe. You are always able to add so much great backround to any subject.

JT Ford. I don't know yet how much he wants. He was checking a few things to make sure he gets it right. He might have been still thinking about a repair rather than a re-core, even though I told him I wanted the to re-core it. I'll let you know when he comes up with a price.

Kubes40. Even though no-one's ever noticed it before now, I had a feeling it wasn't totally authentic. I'm always glad to hear from you guys to verify stuff. Depending on what my local guy comes up with, I might be interested in getting information on your radiator guy.
Question for you. I could see how to detach the brackets, but I am not clear on how you take off the tanks and restore them?

Deluxe40 Thanks! It looks pretty different from mine...

39Fordfan

01-14-2017 @ 11:01 AM

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A couple more questions for you.

Do you have any opinions or experience about pressurizing the system to 4 lbs?

I had tried Skip's 4 lb. pressure valve on the overflow. I didn't notice any appreciable change in the system, except it kept the coolant in the system when having to idle on hot days. But I did find the top hoses would collapse as the system cooled off.

Since the overflow was already broken I placed a plastic tube on it and directed it into a makeshift reservoir. Its worked pretty good to keep coolant in the system and off of the ground.

I've got pets and don't want any excess coolant lying around for them to find. I read the non-toxic coolant is bad for brass or old engines in general.

What do you guys do about the coolant overflow on hot days?

This message was edited by 39Fordfan on 1-14-17 @ 11:06 AM

kubes40

01-14-2017 @ 11:04 AM

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I think you are best to let the radiator shop remove the tanks and brackets. All are soldered on. They must remove them to install new cores anyway.
The guy that does my radiators removes the tanks and brackets as soon as deliver the core to be rebuilt. I take all the pieces to my shop, refinish them and have them back to the radiator shop prior to the new cores arriving. I leave the tanks and brackets bare - no paint.
Once he gets the new cores, he assembles everything, I take it home and paint.

I find this the best way to do a super job removing dings, etc. from the tanks. The brass is very easy to work. The brackets, when removed from the assembly, can be blasted and if necessary, straightened.

Cores are available in any size, shape, etc. as desired. If your shop does not agree, find another shop pronto.

I would suggest taking a photo or two for the shop so they know how the brackets are to be installed later. Memory is second best to photos in my opinion

Although I have the upmost respect for George Haney and his workmanship, I have never found a need for an overflow or pressurized system. I firmly believe once you have the radiator properly restored, you too will find no need for such.
My .02¢? Install your new radiator, fill the system to just above the fins in the top tank and test your car.

This message was edited by kubes40 on 1-14-17 @ 11:08 AM

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