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EFV-8 Club Forum / Light Commercial Truck Discussion / 2 brake questions

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Discussion Topic: 2 brake questions -- page: 1 2 3

jyakel

06-09-2015 @ 4:22 AM

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Steve,
I haven't gotten around to attempting to 'dress' the brake shoes yet. My next day off is Saturday and that day is already full of 'to do' items.

And to be perfectly honest, you have me a little scared to try 'dressing' my shoes in the first place. I may send you a picture of what I find (brake shoe scuffing) when I take the brake drum off. That way I have a 'before' and 'after' if I choose to proceed.
Thank you for the cautions.

John
PS: I agree, the brake shoe/drum geometry is challenging and any 'dressing' must be done right the first time.

len47merc

06-06-2015 @ 5:11 AM

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You're welcome. Keep in mind if you try to dress your shoes yourself where the initial wear points you find are and where the pivot points of the shoes are (bottom). I bring this up because I misspoke earlier - the only place my front shoes were making contact with the drums originally was about 1.5"-2" of the bottom of the shoes nearest the pivot points, not the middle, and as they've broken-in the wear has progressed up the shoes. My memory failed me there a bit and when removing the front hubs/drums yesterday I saw the wear pattern and wanted to correct that today.

Beyond the physical & mechanical aspects of your 'dressing' task it may not be as intuitive as you may think to reshape the shoes to fit your turned drums. Suggest you give the brakes' geometry and function a lot of thought before you start your process.

Steve

jyakel

06-06-2015 @ 4:42 AM

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Steve,
I really appreciate the contact info for Fort Wayne Clutch and Brake. I'll give Scott a call and ask his advice on my current brake situation. As I drive my F-3 I am noticing that the brakes are getting a little better. I hope it's not just my imagination or my 'wishing it would be so'.

I may still pull a wheel and brake drum off and see where the wear (scuffing) is on the brake shoe and see if I can 'dress' it just a little bit. I'll let you know my results. All of this is a learning curve for me.

John

len47merc

06-05-2015 @ 6:42 AM

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IMHO it would be darned near impossible to use a belt sander and your eyes to adequately match the RoC of the drum and be perfectly flat across the shoe. Again IMHO you would likely end up with high and low spots and an uneven surface that will end up increasing spotted heat, cause glazing and then you'll be squeaking like a nest of mice. If you try let us know how your process works and the results achieved.

Btw - Fort Wayne Clutch recommended Brake Materials and Parts in Fort Wayne, (260) 426-3331 - ask for Scott. I called him and they will fabricate on your shoes new braking surfaces that will match the RoC of your drums.

Be interested to hear your results if you try shaping them yourself.

Steve

jyakel

06-05-2015 @ 5:12 AM

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Tom and Steve,
Just a final thought here, what would happen if I took my Craftsman belt sander and sanded and 'shaped' my front brakes shoes just a little? After doing some reading on the Internet about 'arcing' it sounds like that's all arcing is doing is shaping the shoes to the drums. All the arcing sites say the brake shoe should contact the drum in the center of the brake shoe. Clearly, my brake shoes do not contact the drum in the center of the shoe at present. Any reason why I couldn't shape them a little myself?
Please advise.
John

jyakel

06-03-2015 @ 4:54 AM

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Tom and Steve,
Thank you for sharing your experiences and expertise. I guess I'm on course for a somewhat lengthy brake break-in period until the shoes 'seat' with enough surface area to stop my truck with confidence as needed. (By the way, the emergency brake works and holds just fine.)
Any other words of wisdom please send them my way.
I really appreciated your responses.
John

len47merc

06-02-2015 @ 12:25 PM

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My wording may have been a bit confusing and incomplete - the wear on the original drums plus any turning the single, prior owner had performed had resulted in an ~0.039" increase in the drum ID from the original specification, this before taking ownership in 2013. The local shop working on my drums requested my authorization to turn the drums ~0.025" to remove scoring and restore concentricity (thus ~0.64" total from the original spec). They provided their experienced assessment (not recommendation) that given the bulkiness and overall favorable condition of the drums that they could handle this total level of turning and I agreed at the time (even though they were 66+ years old).

Still wish now in retrospect I had not turned them and used them as is (with shoe machining to match RoC) or as stated above simply went with new drums and avoided the lengthy break-in headache.

Steve

TomO

06-02-2015 @ 6:25 AM

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Most shops will not take of more than .050. The drums from the 50's and later are much thinner and will not dissipate the heat causing catastrophic brake fade. The Ford drums should also be kept to that measurement.

Tom

jyakel

06-01-2015 @ 4:07 PM

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Tom and Steve,
Dimple report. Upon my re-inspection, I found all was correct with the installation of the rear brake anchor pins.
Look at this photo attached and you'll see the dimples are facing in as they should be.
Thanks for the suggestion to check my dimples.
John

jyakel

06-01-2015 @ 1:47 PM

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Steve and Tom,
You guys are great. Steve, your brake experience sounds exactly like my current situation. I should pull my brake drums off and see how much brake shoe is really making contact with the drums. My guess is precious little right now. I live in a rural area so I have plenty of country roads to 'break in' my brakes. Unfortunately, I sure don't know of a place that would arc my shoes to my drums. So, I guess I'll have to do it the old fashioned way and drive the brakes easily until they break in. I am very glad to hear Steve that your brakes are now very effective. I could never lock up my brakes right now. Just not enough braking power.

As per Tom's suggestion I am going to check the anchor bolts and the position of the 'dimples'. If I have even one set of anchor bolts backwards that would have a huge effect on my braking I would think.

When I had my drums turned I never thought to ask the shop how much they took off, .050 more or less, no idea. (This learning curve gets steeper all the time.) I'll do some more brake checking and a little more driving and report back to you.
Thank you Steve and Tom.
John

PS: Tom, thanks for the Fort Wayne Clutch and Drivetrain lead. I'm going to look them up on the Internet just for fun.

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