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Discussion Topic:
Original Engine Identification
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supereal |
10-22-2011 @ 2:58 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Anyone buying a collector car should have it checked by a shop that knows their stuff before handing over the cash. Not a year goes by but someone brings us a car after the fact, and finds out they have been "had". There is a whole industry out there designed to part the unsuspecting from their money. If a seller makes claims not backed up by inspection or receipts, drop the deal, regardless of how "nice" the seller appears. If they balk at an inspection, run the other way, even if you really want the car.
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Tracker |
10-17-2011 @ 9:34 AM
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New Member
Posts: 157
Joined: Oct 2009
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Tom I had no idea there would be so much response to the Original Engine post or where this was headed. It started with the water pumps w/wide belts when I read that 51 came with narrow belts. Once burned ...twice forearmed..the next CM engine I buy I will pull the heads & check the crank or walk away from the sale. The engine is one thing but not the end of the world since the one I have is running OK. The biggest disappointment of all was the old guy I bought it from. He is the type that gives old people a bad rap ...in other words a lying SOB. I thought him to be the nicest old man I could have possibly dealt with until I questioned him about the origin of my current engine. His parting comment was " I'm not going to make it right because I don't have to " was all I really needed to know. The dealer swap was the most outrageous BS I have ever heard and humorus because it was so stupid.
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TomO |
10-16-2011 @ 6:44 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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Tracker, That hurts. Now that you have the shop manual, you should be able to determine if the engine that you buy has all of the Mercury items.
Tom
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Tracker |
10-15-2011 @ 11:01 AM
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New Member
Posts: 157
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ron ...been under the weather and off the air for awhile. After reading all the comments and getting a Mercury Shop Manual, I was suspicious of the engine being the original as I was told when I acquired the car. A reputable flathead mechanic called me to say it was an 8BA engine that someone had put the Merc heads, dip stick and Carb/Intake on to resemble a Merc. It has a 3 3/4 crank. I contacted the seller who developed severe memory loss as to how that could have happened and was less than helpful. To say that I was upset and flabergasted would be understatement not only about the engine but the attitude of the seller as well. It was a though he was saying tuff ...its your fault you got cheated. He even tried to sell me on the idea the dealer must have swapped out the engine when the car was new and had problems. BS !!!! All that having been said, its time to suck it up and move on. I am now looking to purchase a 1951 Merc engine to have rebuilt to original specs. The engine I have is running well and I will eventually re build it for use in something but its not the same. I want an original Merc CV which is what I thought I had before I spent the Mother Load bringing it up to new car appearance. Regards Tracker
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Tracker |
10-15-2011 @ 11:00 AM
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New Member
Posts: 157
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ron ...been under the weather and off the air for awhile. After reading all the comments and getting a Mercury Shop Manual, I was suspicious of the engine being the original as I was told when I acquired the car. A reputable flathead mechanic called me to say it was an 8BA engine that someone had put the Merc heads, dip stick and Carb/Intake on to resemble a Merc. It has a 3 3/4 crank. I contacted the seller who developed severe memory loss as to how that could have happened and was less than helpful. To say that I was upset and flabergasted would be understatement not only about the engine but the attitude of the seller as well. It was a though he was saying tuff ...its your fault you got cheated. He even tried to sell me on the idea the dealer must have swapped out the engine when the car was new and had problems. BS !!!! All that having been said, its time to suck it up and move on. I am now looking to purchase a 1951 Merc engine to have rebuilt to original specs. The engine I have is running well and I will eventually re build it for use in something but its not the same. I want an original Merc CV which is what I thought I had before I spent the Mother Load bringing it up to new car appearance. Regards Tracker
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supereal |
09-21-2011 @ 10:24 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Almost always, failure for an OD to shift properly lies in the governor. The exceptions include bad holding points in the solenoid. There are two windings, one to pull the solenoid, the other to hold it engaged. It may pull, then immediately drop out, as if it hadn't engaged at all.If you need a diagram of the overdrive control circuit, I can post one.
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TomO |
09-21-2011 @ 8:04 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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Tracker and Ron, I must have been asleep when I posted that the 52 was the first Mercury with the narrow belts. When the change was made to 2 belts for the water pumps, the narrow belts were introduced. Thanks Ron for correcting me.
Tom
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Ron Westwood |
09-20-2011 @ 10:04 PM
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Member
Posts: 9
Joined: Feb 2010
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Tracker- 1950-51 Mercs should have narrow pulleys & belts. Chances are there has been an engine swap if the all of the pulleys (i.e. crank, generator, pumps) are wide ones. Does the oil filter bolt to the head via head bolts or smaller, separate bolts? Is the timing gear cover cast iron or aluminum? Is the distributor body cast iron or aluminum?
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TomO |
09-09-2011 @ 7:18 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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I am glad that you found the leak. Now you know where to look when you replace the carburetor. The pot metal in these old carburetors is slowly self destructing and as the fitting just has a gasket to keep the fuel in the carburetor, it is a very difficult area to seal. Fixing the leak should make an improvement in your gas mileage as well as removing a fire hazard. The rebuilder should be careful to make sure that the fitting has not been over tightened, damaging the pot metal. If so, he should install a brass sleeve and seal it with gasoline and alcohol proof adhesive, then install the original fitting with a new gasket. No, I do not charge for my advice. Some day I may need your help to solve a problem and that will be enough of a reward.
Tom
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Tracker |
09-08-2011 @ 10:45 AM
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New Member
Posts: 157
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Tom We tried the method you suggested on starting the car and shutting it off ...then checking gas line for leaks and it was right where you said it would be....at the bottom of the carb..it was evaporating so fast we could have never found it otherwise. The smell is gone ( right after I purchased a new carb from a member in NC ) No matter...now I have a spare to rebuild which is far better than the core I have. Do you charge for this ??? At the rate I am spending to fix this car I may have to pay you with Green Stamps ! Thanks to everyone for the help and advice...many knowlegable people on this forum always ready to help out greenhorns like me. Regards Tracker
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