LOGIN
  • Post to the EFV-8 Forum
  • Post Classified Ads
  • Shop the Online Store
User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!



(Forgot your Password?)
Remember me on this computer

Not registered yet?
REGISTER NOW!

Back to Home Page Show Forum Rules

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

  1. All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
  2. You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
  3. Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
  4. Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
  5. No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
  6. No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
  7. VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
  8. EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

    http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

    Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
  9. HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Mercury Discussion / Original Engine Identification

   Reply to this DiscussionReply to Discussion | Start new discussionNew Discussion << previous || next >> 
Posted By Discussion Topic: Original Engine Identification -- page: 1 2 3 4

Printer-friendly Version  send this discussion to a friend  new posts first

supereal
10-22-2011 @ 2:58 PM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Anyone buying a collector car should have it checked by a shop that knows their stuff before handing over the cash. Not a year goes by but someone brings us a car after the fact, and finds out they have been "had". There is a whole industry out there designed to part the unsuspecting from their money. If a seller makes claims not backed up by inspection or receipts, drop the deal, regardless of how "nice" the seller appears. If they balk at an inspection, run the other way, even if you really want the car.

Tracker
10-17-2011 @ 9:34 AM
New Member
Posts: 157
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Tom

I had no idea there would be so much response to the
Original Engine post or where this was headed. It started with the water pumps w/wide belts when I read that 51 came with narrow belts.

Once burned ...twice forearmed..the next CM engine I buy I will pull the heads & check the crank or walk away from the sale.

The engine is one thing but not the end of the world since the one I have is running OK. The biggest disappointment of all was the old guy I bought it from. He is the type that gives old people a bad rap ...in other words a lying SOB. I thought him to be the nicest old man I could have possibly dealt with until I questioned him about the origin of my current engine. His parting comment was " I'm not going to make it right because I don't have to " was all I really needed to know. The dealer swap was the most outrageous BS I have ever heard and humorus because it was so stupid.

TomO
10-16-2011 @ 6:44 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Tracker,

That hurts. Now that you have the shop manual, you should be able to determine if the engine that you buy has all of the Mercury items.

Tom

Tracker
10-15-2011 @ 11:01 AM
New Member
Posts: 157
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Ron ...been under the weather and off the air for awhile.

After reading all the comments and getting a Mercury
Shop Manual, I was suspicious of the engine being the original as I was told when I acquired the car. A reputable flathead mechanic called me to say it was
an 8BA engine that someone had put the Merc heads, dip stick and Carb/Intake on to resemble a Merc. It has a 3 3/4 crank.

I contacted the seller who developed severe memory loss as to how that could have happened and was less than helpful. To say that I was upset and flabergasted would be understatement not only about the engine but the attitude of the seller as well. It was a though he was saying tuff ...its your fault you got cheated. He
even tried to sell me on the idea the dealer must have swapped out the engine when the car was new and had problems. BS !!!!

All that having been said, its time to suck it up and move on. I am now looking to purchase a 1951 Merc engine to have rebuilt to original specs. The engine I have is running well and I will eventually re build it for use in something but its not the same. I want an original Merc CV which is what I thought I had before I spent the Mother Load bringing it up to new car appearance.

Regards

Tracker

Tracker
10-15-2011 @ 11:00 AM
New Member
Posts: 157
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Ron ...been under the weather and off the air for awhile.

After reading all the comments and getting a Mercury
Shop Manual, I was suspicious of the engine being the original as I was told when I acquired the car. A reputable flathead mechanic called me to say it was
an 8BA engine that someone had put the Merc heads, dip stick and Carb/Intake on to resemble a Merc. It has a 3 3/4 crank.

I contacted the seller who developed severe memory loss as to how that could have happened and was less than helpful. To say that I was upset and flabergasted would be understatement not only about the engine but the attitude of the seller as well. It was a though he was saying tuff ...its your fault you got cheated. He
even tried to sell me on the idea the dealer must have swapped out the engine when the car was new and had problems. BS !!!!

All that having been said, its time to suck it up and move on. I am now looking to purchase a 1951 Merc engine to have rebuilt to original specs. The engine I have is running well and I will eventually re build it for use in something but its not the same. I want an original Merc CV which is what I thought I had before I spent the Mother Load bringing it up to new car appearance.

Regards

Tracker

supereal
09-21-2011 @ 10:24 AM
Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Almost always, failure for an OD to shift properly lies in the governor. The exceptions include bad holding points in the solenoid. There are two windings, one to pull the solenoid, the other to hold it engaged. It may pull, then immediately drop out, as if it hadn't engaged at all.If you need a diagram of the overdrive control circuit, I can post one.

TomO
09-21-2011 @ 8:04 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Tracker and Ron,

I must have been asleep when I posted that the 52 was the first Mercury with the narrow belts. When the change was made to 2 belts for the water pumps, the narrow belts were introduced.

Thanks Ron for correcting me.

Tom

Ron Westwood
09-20-2011 @ 10:04 PM
Member
Posts: 9
Joined: Feb 2010
          
Tracker-

1950-51 Mercs should have narrow pulleys & belts. Chances are there has been an engine swap if the all of the pulleys (i.e. crank, generator, pumps) are wide ones. Does the oil filter bolt to the head via head bolts or smaller, separate bolts? Is the timing gear cover cast iron or aluminum? Is the distributor body cast iron or aluminum?

TomO
09-09-2011 @ 7:18 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I am glad that you found the leak. Now you know where to look when you replace the carburetor. The pot metal in these old carburetors is slowly self destructing and as the fitting just has a gasket to keep the fuel in the carburetor, it is a very difficult area to seal. Fixing the leak should make an improvement in your gas mileage as well as removing a fire hazard.

The rebuilder should be careful to make sure that the fitting has not been over tightened, damaging the pot metal. If so, he should install a brass sleeve and seal it with gasoline and alcohol proof adhesive, then install the original fitting with a new gasket.

No, I do not charge for my advice. Some day I may need your help to solve a problem and that will be enough of a reward.

Tom

Tracker
09-08-2011 @ 10:45 AM
New Member
Posts: 157
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Tom

We tried the method you suggested on starting the car and shutting it off ...then checking gas line for leaks and it was right where you said it would be....at the bottom of the carb..it was evaporating so fast we could have never found it otherwise. The smell is gone ( right after I purchased a new carb from a member in NC ) No matter...now I have a spare to rebuild which is far better than the core I have.

Do you charge for this ??? At the rate I am spending to fix this car I may have to pay you with Green Stamps !
Thanks to everyone for the help and advice...many knowlegable people on this forum always ready to help out greenhorns like me.

Regards

Tracker

<< previous || next >> 
PAGE: 1 2 3 4


NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.


EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1