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Discussion Topic:
Original Engine Identification
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Tracker |
09-05-2011 @ 6:48 AM
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New Member
Posts: 157
Joined: Oct 2009
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Tom Thanks for your comments....I was beginning to wonder if I had been sold a bill of goods but I don't think so now. This car is original down to the 6 volt system and I intend to keep it stock and original. We are looking at the OD issue and also a carb rebuild to address the poor gas mileage. It definately does not go into overdrive consistently and the carb is now hesitating on quick acceleration as if the acc pump is not working correctly. I checked every thing on your earlier recommendation and we have narrowed it down to this. Many thanks to all who have offered help on this problem...this is the best website in the industry for help on the early Mercs...many knowledgeable people willing to help and believe me I am still in a steep learning curve. Regards Tracker
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supereal |
09-05-2011 @ 8:26 AM
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Senior
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Joined: Oct 2009
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The "coincentric" carb was used on both Mercury and Lincoln, and on the big Ford trucks. It was never known for fuel economy, and almost every one I've seen leaked somewhere. They can be a chore to rebuild. When gas was a quarter a gallon, no one worried about economy. Overdrive helped, but city driving seldom reached a speed where it would be triggered, so the revs stayed high. That is why many of us installed a switch to parallel the governor and provide a ground to make it kick on. It gave us six forward speeds, but we always had to be sure that it wasn't engaged when reverse was called for.
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TomO |
09-05-2011 @ 9:00 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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Tracker, I would look for a good used core at a swap meet and have that rebuilt by a reputable rebuilder. As Supereal said, they can be a challenge to get rebuilt correctly. By sending in a core, you will still have your original one to use until you are sure the rebuilt one is good. Once that you are satisfied that the rebuilt one is working correctly, have your original one rebuilt for a spare.
Tom
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Tracker |
09-06-2011 @ 7:19 PM
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New Member
Posts: 157
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Thanks ....I would not know how to set up switch as you describe but I have been getting a lot of help on the OD from Fifth Avenue. They gave us a check list of things to do on the OD...at first pass it lookslike the relay may be weak and working intermittently. Regards Tracker
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Tracker |
09-06-2011 @ 7:27 PM
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New Member
Posts: 157
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Tom ..great advice. I did find a core carb from a Merc O Matic ...it looks pretty much the same except it has a manifold choke rather than the cannister choke mounted high on the carb. I will definately have the core re built first before sending my working ( poorly ) carb off for several mos. BTW, I received a scam e-mail from Spain offering to sell me this part w/no description or even what it was. I had advertised in the Forum Classifieds as sometime back some one was selling NOS carbs but no response from that ad . Regards Tracker
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Tracker |
09-08-2011 @ 10:45 AM
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New Member
Posts: 157
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Tom We tried the method you suggested on starting the car and shutting it off ...then checking gas line for leaks and it was right where you said it would be....at the bottom of the carb..it was evaporating so fast we could have never found it otherwise. The smell is gone ( right after I purchased a new carb from a member in NC ) No matter...now I have a spare to rebuild which is far better than the core I have. Do you charge for this ??? At the rate I am spending to fix this car I may have to pay you with Green Stamps ! Thanks to everyone for the help and advice...many knowlegable people on this forum always ready to help out greenhorns like me. Regards Tracker
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TomO |
09-09-2011 @ 7:18 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
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I am glad that you found the leak. Now you know where to look when you replace the carburetor. The pot metal in these old carburetors is slowly self destructing and as the fitting just has a gasket to keep the fuel in the carburetor, it is a very difficult area to seal. Fixing the leak should make an improvement in your gas mileage as well as removing a fire hazard. The rebuilder should be careful to make sure that the fitting has not been over tightened, damaging the pot metal. If so, he should install a brass sleeve and seal it with gasoline and alcohol proof adhesive, then install the original fitting with a new gasket. No, I do not charge for my advice. Some day I may need your help to solve a problem and that will be enough of a reward.
Tom
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Ron Westwood |
09-20-2011 @ 10:04 PM
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Posts: 9
Joined: Feb 2010
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Tracker- 1950-51 Mercs should have narrow pulleys & belts. Chances are there has been an engine swap if the all of the pulleys (i.e. crank, generator, pumps) are wide ones. Does the oil filter bolt to the head via head bolts or smaller, separate bolts? Is the timing gear cover cast iron or aluminum? Is the distributor body cast iron or aluminum?
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TomO |
09-21-2011 @ 8:04 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
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Tracker and Ron, I must have been asleep when I posted that the 52 was the first Mercury with the narrow belts. When the change was made to 2 belts for the water pumps, the narrow belts were introduced. Thanks Ron for correcting me.
Tom
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supereal |
09-21-2011 @ 10:24 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Almost always, failure for an OD to shift properly lies in the governor. The exceptions include bad holding points in the solenoid. There are two windings, one to pull the solenoid, the other to hold it engaged. It may pull, then immediately drop out, as if it hadn't engaged at all.If you need a diagram of the overdrive control circuit, I can post one.
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