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Discussion Topic:
Sudden Stop
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supereal |
08-22-2012 @ 5:10 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Over the years, I have found lots of poor connections between the battery cables and the terminals. Most have the terminals either cast on the cables, or crimped on. Battery acid infiltrates that connection, and forms a high resistance connection. It can't be seen, but will absolutely kill the whole system. There is no other reason the whole car goes dead.
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swmddo |
08-24-2012 @ 11:10 AM
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New Member
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Tom, I think that may be the problem. How difficult is it to remove the stud? Do I have to remove the starter first? Will try the cranking with ignition off, too. Thanks Steve
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swmddo |
08-24-2012 @ 2:14 PM
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New Member
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The crazy thing is that when the engine is cold, it starts up almost immediately. I would not suspect the distributor at that point. But once the car has run for 10 minutes, turning the engine off, and then trying to restart, the starter is very slow and sluggish...if I keep cranking, it kind of jumps back into life. It does sound like a connection problem. The idiots who pulled the starter when it didn't need it, probably stripped the stud, and when it gets hot, it expands and the cable doesn't make good contact until it cools off. Steve
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TomO |
08-25-2012 @ 8:09 AM
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Senior
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You will need to remove the starter and the I believe the stud is soldered to a wire from field coil. I have never replaced one, as my local generator / starter repair shop is very reasonable in these types of repairs. Tom
This message was edited by TomO on 8-25-12 @ 8:12 AM
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supereal |
08-25-2012 @ 10:26 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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If the starter terminal turns as the nut is tightened, it is more than likely that the connection inside the starter body has been damaged. Given the amount of current reqired to operate the starter, it very soon arcs at the loose connection, and usually burns off at the joint to the brush. A bad connection causes heat, which raises resistance, until the starter won't run. If it cools off, it can often allow the starter to run, at least a small bit. There should be a locknut on the terminal stud below the cable and securing nut. If the locknut is loose, or missing, the terminal will turn. Too often someone gets heavy handed with a wrench on lots of bolts and studs, and it comes to us to be fixed.
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swmddo |
08-25-2012 @ 1:20 PM
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New Member
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Yes, to both of you! The stud is stripped, and obviously won't keep the cable tight. It does get hot, and causes all the problems. I called C&G and they had a stud kit fr $10. I should be able to pull the starter and replace the stud. Thanks. Steve
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swmddo |
09-01-2012 @ 10:02 AM
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Well, got the new stud in the starter, and it works great. I still have a problem, most likely with the fuel pump or carb now, since once I stop the engine and start it up again, it just cranks and cranks...eventually, I can get it going if I flood the carb, but that isn't the right way. Steve
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supereal |
09-07-2012 @ 11:13 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Check your fuel line from the tank to the firewall. We are seeing lots of nearly clogged lines. It is only a quarter inch line, just big enough to supply the necessary amount of fuel. I suspect that alcohol in fuel is accelerating the interior rust of the line. Also be sure that the flex line is not collapsing like a soda straw. As the car starts when there is ample fuel, it usually means poor gas delivery to replenish fuel lost to evaporation when the engine compartment is hot. Try giving the air cleaner a couple of shots of starter fluid when it cranks a long time. If it takes off, you can be sure the fuel system is at fault.
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