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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / Sudden Stop

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Sudden Stop -- page: 1 2 3     supereal 09-07-2012 @ 11:13 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Check your fuel line from the tank to the firewall. We are seeing lots of nearly clogged lines. It is only a quarter inch line, just big enough to supply the necessary amount of fuel. I suspect that alcohol in fuel is accelerating the interior rust of the line. Also be sure that the flex line is not collapsing like a soda straw. As the car starts when there is ample fuel, it usually means poor gas delivery to replenish fuel lost to evaporation when the engine compartment is hot. Try giving the air cleaner a couple of shots of starter fluid when it cranks a long time. If it takes off, you can be sure the fuel system is at fault. swmddo 09-01-2012 @ 10:02 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Well, got the new stud in the starter, and it works great. I still have a problem, most likely with the fuel pump or carb now, since once I stop the engine and start it up again, it just cranks and cranks...eventually, I can get it going if I flood the carb, but that isn't the right way. Steve swmddo 08-25-2012 @ 1:20 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Yes, to both of you! The stud is stripped, and obviously won't keep the cable tight. It does get hot, and causes all the problems. I called C&G and they had a stud kit fr $10. I should be able to pull the starter and replace the stud. Thanks. Steve supereal 08-25-2012 @ 10:26 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 If the starter terminal turns as the nut is tightened, it is more than likely that the connection inside the starter body has been damaged. Given the amount of current reqired to operate the starter, it very soon arcs at the loose connection, and usually burns off at the joint to the brush. A bad connection causes heat, which raises resistance, until the starter won't run. If it cools off, it can often allow the starter to run, at least a small bit. There should be a locknut on the terminal stud below the cable and securing nut. If the locknut is loose, or missing, the terminal will turn. Too often someone gets heavy handed with a wrench on lots of bolts and studs, and it comes to us to be fixed. TomO 08-25-2012 @ 8:09 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 You will need to remove the starter and the I believe the stud is soldered to a wire from field coil. I have never replaced one, as my local generator / starter repair shop is very reasonable in these types of repairs. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 8-25-12 @ 8:12 AM swmddo 08-24-2012 @ 2:14 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 The crazy thing is that when the engine is cold, it starts up almost immediately. I would not suspect the distributor at that point. But once the car has run for 10 minutes, turning the engine off, and then trying to restart, the starter is very slow and sluggish...if I keep cranking, it kind of jumps back into life. It does sound like a connection problem. The idiots who pulled the starter when it didn't need it, probably stripped the stud, and when it gets hot, it expands and the cable doesn't make good contact until it cools off. Steve swmddo 08-24-2012 @ 11:10 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Tom, I think that may be the problem. How difficult is it to remove the stud? Do I have to remove the starter first? Will try the cranking with ignition off, too. Thanks Steve supereal 08-22-2012 @ 5:10 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Over the years, I have found lots of poor connections between the battery cables and the terminals. Most have the terminals either cast on the cables, or crimped on. Battery acid infiltrates that connection, and forms a high resistance connection. It can't be seen, but will absolutely kill the whole system. There is no other reason the whole car goes dead. TomO 08-22-2012 @ 10:40 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve, You will probably have to replace the stud on the starter in order to properly tighten the nut. Make sure that the stud is SAE threads and only use an SAE nut. The metric stud will require a metric nut. The studs are easily stripped and usually replaced when a starter is rebuilt. Some re-builders just use what ever they have on hand and others are very careful to make sure that they replace it with original style. The poor connection could very well be the cause of your sluggish starter. If your points were not set on a distributor machine, they could cause timing problems, which could make it seem as if the starter is dragging. To check if this is the problem, try cranking the engine with the ignition switch off. If the starter turns OK, you may have timing problems. Tom swmddo 08-20-2012 @ 3:42 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Tom, I have a '48. I have been using a 6-volt tubular coil...no resistor. I had NO problems before I did some engine work and put in new spark plugs, wires, points, condenser. All worked well for awhile. Then the sluggish starter motor began after the car had been running for awhile. I put the diode in, per Supereal, and also found that the cable to the starter was lose. The copper threaded screw coming from it, does not lend itself to staying tight. When cold and tight, all is OK. When the car is hot, the cable seems to have loosened some. Not sure if this is the problem or not. Getting frustrated, as everything has checked out OK. Steve

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