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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1940 Ford Discussion / Sudden Stop

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Sudden Stop -- page: 1 2 3     smiley 06-10-2012 @ 7:41 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 26 Joined: Nov 2010 Got the 40 going again! I put a jumper wire across the resister and nothing happened, so checked the NEW battery, yep goner . Put in new one and all is better. Now I have a spare resister. Hopefully it will work on more than a 40. Thanks for everyones help, this is a great forum. Kenny supereal 06-11-2012 @ 9:57 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Kenny: Be sure to check the charging voltage of your car. Overcharging is one major cause of battery failure. With the engine running fast enough to close the regulator cutout, the voltage should read 7.5 volts, more or less. smiley 06-12-2012 @ 3:31 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 26 Joined: Nov 2010 Thanks for the tip, I'll check that voltage. Thats probably what happened to the battery. Kenny swmddo 08-15-2012 @ 6:04 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 I don't have the circuit breaker/resistor panel, but I assume I can just mount the resistor on the firewall? I have decided that my 6-volt coil (internal resistance) is a problem, so I plan on getting Skip to send me a rebuilt one that uses the resistor. I tried the wire/diode between the starter side of the solenoid and the input terminal on the coil, but I could not tell it made much difference. Steve supereal 08-15-2012 @ 10:38 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 We make up a small panel to accomodate the resistor and several push button reset circuit breakers, and mount it where the original panel was fastened. This allows us to protect several individual circuits, such as lighting. Don't fuse the circuit from the generator to the ammeter because if it is opened while the engine is running, damage to the generator may result. As for the diode circuit, the wire from the diode to the coil should be checked to see that the diode is properly set up. With the diode wire off the coil, put a voltmeter between that wire and a ground and run the solenoid. If you don't see voltage, the diode is facing the wrong way, and is draining the coil voltage thru the starter motor. When the starter is energized, you should see 5-6 volts at the coil with the diode connected. Without it, the voltage will drop considerably when the starter is running, sometimes less than 2 volts, causing hard starting. This message was edited by supereal on 8-15-12 @ 10:39 AM swmddo 08-15-2012 @ 3:45 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Ok, so I connect the diode wire to the starter side of the solenoid, right? Then put a voltmeter between the end of the diode wire and ground. Then I run the solenoid. If I get voltage, I should be OK. If not, I switch ends of the diode. Is a 1.5amp, 1000v diode a good enough one to use? Thanks again. 40 Coupe 08-16-2012 @ 4:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1674 Joined: Oct 2009 Alen: On the 40 the circuit breaker is only for the light circuit and is not wired into the ignition circuit. The resistor drops the 6V battery about in half to the coil so about 3.5V but only when one or both of the points in the distributor are closed. The ignition resistor is encased in a metal shield but it is electrically connected to the shield, since the shield has the two mounting holes it has to be kept isolated from other parts of the car that are connected to the battery, such as all of the body or the frame. Ford mounted it on a insulating piece of compressed cardboard and then mounted the cardboard to the inside of the firewall using separate screws to isolate the resistor. TomO 08-16-2012 @ 7:29 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve, what year car are you working on? the 1933-1938 cars used a resister and fuse block. the 38-40 cars used a circuit breaker and resister assembly, mounted on the firewall The 41 to early 47 used a resister and circuit breaker mounted on the fire wall. These are available from several vendors. The late 47 and 48 mounted the resistor on the coil. The 49-53 cars used a coil with an internal resistor. Tom swmddo 08-20-2012 @ 3:42 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 111 Joined: Oct 2009 Tom, I have a '48. I have been using a 6-volt tubular coil...no resistor. I had NO problems before I did some engine work and put in new spark plugs, wires, points, condenser. All worked well for awhile. Then the sluggish starter motor began after the car had been running for awhile. I put the diode in, per Supereal, and also found that the cable to the starter was lose. The copper threaded screw coming from it, does not lend itself to staying tight. When cold and tight, all is OK. When the car is hot, the cable seems to have loosened some. Not sure if this is the problem or not. Getting frustrated, as everything has checked out OK. Steve TomO 08-22-2012 @ 10:40 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 Steve, You will probably have to replace the stud on the starter in order to properly tighten the nut. Make sure that the stud is SAE threads and only use an SAE nut. The metric stud will require a metric nut. The studs are easily stripped and usually replaced when a starter is rebuilt. Some re-builders just use what ever they have on hand and others are very careful to make sure that they replace it with original style. The poor connection could very well be the cause of your sluggish starter. If your points were not set on a distributor machine, they could cause timing problems, which could make it seem as if the starter is dragging. To check if this is the problem, try cranking the engine with the ignition switch off. If the starter turns OK, you may have timing problems. Tom

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