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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1936 Sedan- no spark questions

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Discussion Topic: 1936 Sedan- no spark questions -- page: 1 2

forJJ

06-29-2015 @ 5:32 PM

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I am trying to start my 1936 sedan. It has been sitting for 20+ years. I have re-wired it with a new wiring harness from Tyree Harris. I am getting current to the coil lead wire that attaches to the coil, but no spark. How can I tell what is wrong? Is there a way to test if the coil needs to be re-built? I'm a first timer with early fords, so I am learning as I go. Any help would be appreciated.

VT/JeffH

06-29-2015 @ 7:45 PM

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Hi forJJ, Welcome to the V8 Club Forums! I have a '36 Phaeton.

I'm certain you will get some very helpful responses.

My first piece of advice is to try only one change at a time.

There could very easily be more than a couple of reasons you are having this issue.

Unless you can get a flathead guru to visit your garage (best case scenario). Working thru this forum will get it running, but you'll have to help us by giving us good communications (pictures help a lot) and going slowly.

On finding a guru, here is a link to the Regional Club directory. Plan to attend their next club meeting (bring brownies or donuts, haha). Bring pictures to the meeting. I'm in the group in Maryland called National Capitol RG#36, we meet in the only church in Sunshine MD, on the third Tuesday of the week. Pledge of Allegiance at 7:30pm, jawboning from 6:45 to 7:30.

http://www.earlyfordv8.org/early-ford-directory.cfm

-VT/JeffH

Edited to add my RG info.

Edit again. There aren't three Tuesaday's in a week. Third Tuesday of the month is correct!

This message was edited by VT/JeffH on 7-3-15 @ 10:33 PM

TomO

06-30-2015 @ 8:59 AM

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You can connect your volt meter (COM lead to coil and POS lead to ground) to the input of the coil and turn the engine over. As the points open and close the voltage will vary. with the points open, you should read battery voltage at the coil. with the points closed you should read about 4 volts.

Make sure that your battery is connected with the POS terminal grounded and the NEG terminal going to the starter switch.

Tom

forJJ

07-02-2015 @ 8:00 PM

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Tom--thanks! I will try to test it tomorrow, and see what I get.

I thought I would take the coil off to check it. I attached a pic, I'm not sure what it is supposed to look like, and I couldn't find any pics in the 35-36 book. The metal point in the middle is rusted, is there something missing from it?

Thanks in advance.

forJJ

07-02-2015 @ 8:02 PM

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.

This message was edited by forJJ on 7-2-15 @ 8:03 PM

40 Coupe

07-03-2015 @ 4:17 AM

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What you have is the late 36 coil. A good distributor. I note the center contact is a carbon brush that is spring loaded and should be erect and you can push it down with your finger it will return to the up position. The carbon brush sends the high voltage from the coil secondary to the distributor rotor. Aftermarket vendors sell the brush and the spring behind it. You can gently pull the carbon brush and spring out, if stuck try spraying with a contact cleaner or add a few drops of alcohol to loosen any dry grease. Your distributor does not use the typical 33-36 rotor or inner caps. It uses the later 36-42 style. After several years of storage the distributor points often will develop a film that should be cleaned off so there is electrical continuity. You may try spray electrical cleaner on the two points. I would suggest you do not make any changes to any settings before getting the car to run. previous postings are good steps to follow. If the voltage at the coil, varies when the engine is turned over the distributor points are working if the voltage stays at one level they are not. After getting the engine to run you may want to send the distributor coil and condenser out of testing and service.

This message was edited by 40 Coupe on 7-3-15 @ 4:39 AM

TomO

07-03-2015 @ 6:32 AM

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Here is a link to C&G catalog showing what the brush and spring should look like.

http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgcat.php?searchtype=Search&year_choice=36&searchtextdesc=brush&sd=Search&searchnumber=1A-12259

Tom

forJJ

07-03-2015 @ 5:21 PM

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I just ordered the brush and spring, so I will try that first. I thought I'd post a pic of the car I'm working on.

Thanks for all the help!

TomO

07-04-2015 @ 5:49 AM

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That is a very nice survivor. I am sure that you will get lots of enjoyment out of it.

Tom

07-04-2015 @ 5:51 AM

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I'm not so sure the late '36 coil, which is what you have, uses the same size brush contact and spring as the earlier dome top coils. Seems to me it would use the same brush and spring as a '37 - '41 coil. I have samples of all three style helmet type coils, so could check on this later, or maybe Ken ct will chime in on this with the answer.
While looking at your picture of the coil, and the rust film at the brush mounting area, I would suggest a good cleaning down inside that brush mounting area to make sure you have good electrical continuity before installing a new brush and spring.

John

This message was edited by JM on 7-4-15 @ 5:55 AM

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