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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Replacing a floor on a '40 convertible

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Discussion Topic: Replacing a floor on a '40 convertible

sixpacktux

10-13-2014 @ 10:31 AM

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My '40 deluxe convertible needs a new floor (trunk and backseat area are solid). I bought the floor from Bob Drake this weekend at Hershey. I'm wondering if anyone has some experience replacing the floor on a '40 deluxe convertible?

Trying to connect and brace the cowl to the back half before lifting the body seems futile? OR should I cross brace the cowl half to the back half in all directions (front to back bracing upper and lower, side to side, top to bottom)? I think as long as I put the car on jack stands and level, take a lot of dimensions, photo's I should be able to separate the cowl and back body from the frame separately? Getting the cowl back in the right place and plumb is my major concern obviously.

I'd greatly appreciate any recommendations, thoughts or concerns on the process. Does anyone know of a good resource for this?

Thanks!
Dave

trjford8

10-13-2014 @ 6:13 PM

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From a personal point of view I would leave the body on the frame to replace the floor pan.

shogun1940

10-13-2014 @ 6:49 PM

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i am putting floors in a sedan delivery. i have it braced side to side but with the conv. i would do that and front to back and sid to side .. take a lot of pictures and measurments.. my floors are in three pieces. its a pain taking the old welds out and i have lot of rust to deal with. i have 40 convert also so if you need measurements or pics i will try and help

kubes40

10-14-2014 @ 5:26 AM

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I have replaced the floors in a number of '40 convertibles. I will strongly advice you to leave the body ON the frame and bolted in place. Make CERTAIN the doors are aligned properly before installing the new pan. You may remove the doors of course but it is imperative that the opening remain perfectly fixed.
Bracing is your number one priority prior to cutting the old pan out. Measuring and measuring again is your priority prior to installing the new one.
I like to bolts the body directly to the frame I intend to utilize in the restoration, that is , NO pads.
You will want to brace front to rear in the door opening at both the top and near the bottom. You should also brace from side to side. Again, top and near the bottom. And finally, cross brace.
Yes, it requires a lot of effort to brace correctly. However, the end result is well worth the preparation.
If you are out of alignment when installing the new pan, you will have a heck of a time attempting to align the body panels later.
One last bit of advice... only "tack" in the new pans at first. Then, install the doors to be certain they are still in proper alignment. Check the wood floor board alignment as well as the transmission pan. If all fits well, complete the welding process avoiding any "hot spots" that will distort the pan.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth

sixpacktux

10-15-2014 @ 6:37 AM

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I really appreciate all the input. I agree 100%, bracing is key! It's my understanding the floor and rocker are sandwiched between the frame and the vertical posts (which have 3 bolts to the frame). I've attached an image where you can see the floor and rocker have rusted away around the post. The other side is in a similar condition. If I understand you correctly, I should clear the rust in this area and tack weld new material the best I can to the post if I don't lift off the body? I also need to cut out the bad parts of the rocker and weld in new patches. I should patch the various areas instead of lay down the complete new floor if I understand everyone correctly.

I like leave the body on the frame (reduces risk) and avoid replacing the pads. Right now the doors open and close perfectly which makes me hesitate to mess with it. It makes for prepping and painting the frame and underside more challenging but less risk of scr*w*ng up the car.

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