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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Stops going uphill

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Discussion Topic: Stops going uphill

Dustbowl

02-09-2011 @ 6:49 PM

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My 36 flathead has stopped running unexpectedly on more than three occasions, and always (as well as I can remember when going uphill. Not sure if it is a fuel or ignition problem, although suspect the latter.

Normally, the engine runs well; starts quickly, idles smooth, and has good power. Clean stock carb, well adjusted. Electric fuel pump (changed when I thought original fuel pump might be the source), Distributor and coil rebuilt by Skip a couple of years ago, wiring connections good, plugs clean, etc.

It typically stops after driving 30 minutes or so with warm but not hot engine. Then after about 30 minutes, it will start again.

Any suggestions on possible causes?

1933

02-09-2011 @ 7:28 PM

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There could be a number of things going wrong. I would first see if the gas tank vent is plugged causing a vacuum in the tank. Try running the car with a loose gas cap or without one. Of course be careful.

39 Ken

02-10-2011 @ 4:00 AM

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Make sure it is a fuel problem by taking off the air cleaner, looking in and at the same time stroke the gas pedal a few times to see if the carb will squirt fuel. If not, the it's a fuel problem. It could be a rusted pick-up fuel line in the tank. Going up hill may expose a rust through in the line causing an interuption in the flow. Does this happen when the tank is closer to empty than full? Otherwise, it could be a loose hose clamp on your connections at the electric pump. Check all your connections to be sure they're tight. If you do see fuel in the carb, then it's probably electrical. The ignition resister under the dash could be the problem since you've had Skip do the coil and distributer. Try bypassing it with a jumper wire the next time it happens and see if it starts right up. If so, that's your problem. It could also be a bad condenser. The condensers that are available today are made off-shore and seem to be failing at a great rate. Let us know how you make out. Ken

TomO

02-10-2011 @ 7:54 AM

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You can eliminate the coil and condenser by checking your spark at idle and the engine at normal operating temperature. It should be at least 1/2 inch long, blue in color and make a sharp cracking sound when a plug wire is held close to a head nut. Use an insulated screw driver or fuse puller to hold the wire.

Tom

supereal

02-10-2011 @ 10:17 AM

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Remove the fuel line at the carb and place the end in a container. Then run both the mechanical and electric pumps to see if a steady stream of fuel is produced. I chased a similiar problem with my '47 to the place where even the electric "booster" pump wouldn't keep the car running. As I have mentioned here, the problem was a fuel line between the tank and the firewall. It was full of rust and dirt that occasionally stopped fuel flow altogether. We suspect that the "oxygenated" fuel bearing alcohol was the cause. With a new plastic tank, flex line, and fuel pumps, the line was the only part left because I had only seen bad fuel lines if they had been physically damaged.

02-10-2011 @ 10:48 AM

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My 36 did the same thing last fall. Have new carb & coil/distributor done by Skip. Found that the resistor was by passed and wired direct to the coil giving too much voltage to the coil. Haven't driven it since (live in N lower Mich.) Voltage has dropped from 6 to 4.2 to the coil. This should fix the coil problem..good luck. DK

supereal

02-10-2011 @ 3:47 PM

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A common problem with the ignition resistor is caused by the expansion and contraction of the resistor coil as it heats and cools. This can pull the nichrome wire loose from the terminals. Nichrome (nickel/chrome) wire is very hard to solder, so most resistors depend on a crimped connection to the terminals. You can test the resistor with an ohmeter connected across the resistor with the system wires disconnected. Just wiggle the terminals and look for any changes. Foreign made resistors can be a problem. C&G used to have NOS resistors. I don't know if they still do. Every "road kit" should contain a clip lead to bypass the resist "just in case".

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