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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Buzzing Starter Solenoid

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Discussion Topic: Buzzing Starter Solenoid

Steves46

12-10-2010 @ 7:51 AM

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The starter solenoid on my 46 Coupe is starting to buzz everytime I start the car. What could be causing this? Bad solenoid? Thanks.

TomO

12-10-2010 @ 8:56 AM

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The buzzing is probably caused by low voltage to the solenoid. This can be caused by a weak battery, wrong size or defective battery cables or poor grounding of the solenoid.

Hook a voltmeter across your battery and measure the voltage while cranking the engine with the ignition off. Your meter should read at least 5 volts. Lower readings indicate a marginal battery.

Check the cables by connecting your volt meter at both ends of the cable and crank the engine. Your meter should read less than 5/10 of a volt. A higher reading indicates too much voltage drop across the cable. The ground cable should read less than 1/10 of a volt.

Tom

supereal

12-11-2010 @ 9:37 AM

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Also check the grounding of the starter button to the dash. The button furnishes ground to the solenoid, and depends on the connection between the edge of the button and the dash board. Clean the mounting hole edges and bend the spring clips on the button bezel to get a firm connection. You may have to provide a ground wire to the dash. Before you work on the button, ground the small wire to the solenoid to see if it pulls OK. As Tom notes, the body of the solenoid needs a firm ground, too. We often find the ground strap from the battery to the car body and engine to be missing or corroded. The greater number of electrical problems in old cars are poor grounds due to age, paint, rust, etc.

Steves46

12-12-2010 @ 5:36 AM

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Thanks for the inputs guys. Here is an update. After slow charging the battery (6 year old Optima) and changing the solenoid, the buzzing stopped but after she warmed-up, she started to sputter and then quit. Before it quit, I watched the amp meter and it was showing charge as I stepped on the gas therefore I don't think there are any issues with the voltage reg or generator. At this point, I ruled-out the coil since it was rebuilt by Skip and focussed on the condenser. Changed the condenser, fired her up and let it idle until normal op temp was reached and at least for now, everything is good-to-go. Later this morning I will take her out for a short drive and see if I make it back without anymore problems.

ford38v8

12-12-2010 @ 10:17 PM

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Steve, If your 6 year old Optima isn't the cause of your most recent problem, it nevertheless is ready to leave you on shanks mare soon. Bite the bullet and replace it before IT chooses the time and place.

Your generator showing charge is an indicator that your battery is low and didn't hold the charge you put on it. If it had, the regulator would have cut out to prevent overcharge.

Alan

TomO

12-13-2010 @ 7:19 AM

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Steve, you should check your battery as I indicated in my first post. If it is weak, it will fail on you at the most inconvenient time. Radio shack has some good analog voltmeters that are reasonable or you can drive into a place that sells batteries and they will check your battery for you.

Tom

Steves46

12-13-2010 @ 10:24 AM

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Since I have been operating going-on 6 years with the Optima, it just may be reaching the end of its service life. After the car started sputtering after it reached op temp, I shut it down and changed the condenser (NAPA IH-200), fired her back up and she didn't miss a beat. Took it for a 10 mile round trip and she ran-out great. Nevertheless though I will have the battery load tested just to be sure. I as well as a bunch of folks know all about batteries failing at the worst possible times. In-fact, the 6 volt on my 55 F100 did this very thing on Saturday.

supereal

12-13-2010 @ 10:55 AM

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I replaced one Optima after 7 years, even though it still cranked the car as before. Most common lead-acid batteries seldom make it to five years, so I erred on the side of caution. Lead-acid types sulfate from long periods of inactivity, making the Optima a better choice.

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