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Discussion Topic:
stalling at stops
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fordmerc |
09-02-2010 @ 1:29 PM
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New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: Oct 2009
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Rebuilt engine stalls at stops, runs a little roughly at idle and requires higher idle speed than other engines I've heard. It starts easily, seems to run OK (?) on the street. I need help troubleshooting. Suggestions appreciated.
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alanwoodieman |
09-02-2010 @ 3:27 PM
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Senior
Posts: 868
Joined: Oct 2009
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did you rebuild the carb? sounds like a high float level in the carb, when it loads up can you clear it up by gunning the accelerator?
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fordmerc |
09-02-2010 @ 3:33 PM
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New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: Oct 2009
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Carb rebuilt professionally. If I can "catch it" before it stalls a gentle touch of the accelerator will keep the engine going; hand throttle also works.
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supereal |
09-02-2010 @ 3:45 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The quickest way to diagnose that problem is to use a vacuum gauge. When you have that kind of problem, it is important to find the cause before you start to change things, which usually add another problem or two before you find the actual cause.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
09-02-2010 @ 4:27 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
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On rough idle, maybe the plugs got fouled,this happens sometime with new engine, find out why a rough idle,I think this is most of your problems, bad ignition wires, spark plugs, dirty, or fouled, like super says, stick a vacuunm gauge on it and see what reading , 37RAGTOPMAN and KEEP on FORDIN
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fordmerc |
09-02-2010 @ 5:11 PM
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New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: Oct 2009
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Spark plugs pulled; =OK. Ignition wires new (repro). I'll check with vacuum gauge tomorrow. Thanks for the chart.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
09-03-2010 @ 6:12 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
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check the ignition wires ,by when running and in a dark area, spray the wire with water, [ Windex sprayer will do ] and see if you get arcing, do this to rule these out. if it ran good before. What did you do that is different and making it run different,??? my 3 cents worth,37RAGTOPMAN, an KEEP on FORDIN,,!!!
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fordmerc |
09-03-2010 @ 12:54 PM
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New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: Oct 2009
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No arc with water spray. Vacuum readings don't conform to the algorithm from Supereal.: At idle, needle wavers irregularly at 17-18. Quick throttle push/release, drops to 0-1 then back to previous. Sustained throttle (5 sec) then release, drops to 0-1, stays in the 17-18 range with waver, returns to 12-13 with very irregular fluctuation and rough engine ready to stall up[on release of throttle). After running up and down the street, I have 23 miles on rebuilt engine; I can't say it ever ran perfectly smoothly. I'm reluctant to take it on a long drive because I had a hard time starting it when it stalled at a stop on the last trip, which is what sent me to the forum. Before that I would have been willing to accept "it'll break in later" as an answer. (It did and continues to start easily except for that one episode) Maybe "break-in is still the answer??
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supereal |
09-03-2010 @ 1:59 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Which vacuum readings don't conform to those on the chart? All of the conditions cited are basic, and a large deviation in any one indicates a problem with the area in question. In my opinion, nothing spoils the ownership of an old car more than being unsure that it is dependable. Compared to today's vehicles, our old Fords are very simple machines, and were designed so they could be repaired by those with limited skills, making them ideal for a hobbyist.
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fordmerc |
09-03-2010 @ 3:03 PM
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New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: Oct 2009
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I may have used words incorrectly: my vacuum readings are on the "edge" of each step: -at idle: wavering @17 = really not good, but within range -open/close throttle quickly: drops to 0-2, rebounds to 22 =not good enough but shouldn't be worn rings --not much else fits, especially on a newly rebuilt engine and carburetor (the engine rebuilder has done consistent good work on other engines) I agree that fear of undependability takes the fun out of it.
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