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Discussion Topic:
tube shocks for 40 sedan
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40fordor |
12-07-2022 @ 2:33 PM
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New Member
Posts: 116
Joined: Oct 2009
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My car was converted to tube shocks with a good kit in the early 1950's .As you can guess they are shot! I cannot remove the bottom mounting pin after all this time. There is not enough room to drive it out with a hammer and I am reluctant to heat it with a torch under the car. Need suggestions about removal and then what new shocks to use.
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alanwoodieman |
12-07-2022 @ 3:40 PM
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Senior
Posts: 868
Joined: Oct 2009
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are the pins thru the shock arm? thru the axle? pictures would be great. some shock lower attachments were built on the shock with a nut to hold on, pictures will tell us a great deal
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40fordor |
12-08-2022 @ 9:50 AM
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New Member
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Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks for the response. I am not good at computers and pictures, therefore I will try to explain the mounting. The stock spring perch is in place and the bottom of the tube shock mounts in the top hole of the perch. This is where the old shock arm attached. The current pin is inserted from the frame side with the threads going toward the wheel backing pate. The nut is easy to remove but I cannot push or drive the pin back through the spring perch. I purchased this car in 1959 and have not replaced the shocks, no wonder the pin is rusted into the mount. A good mechanic could probably remove it but I have done most of the tasks over the years. It is not as easy at 86!
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trjford8 |
12-09-2022 @ 7:55 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4242
Joined: Oct 2009
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If the mount is in the hole of the original shock arm, that hole is a tapered fit.. Soak it well with PB Baster or something like "Superzilla" and let it sit for awhile. Then use a small pickle fork to separate the mount from the hole. It might take a few whacks with a BFH on the end of the fork..
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wmsteed |
12-09-2022 @ 9:44 AM
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Senior
Posts: 613
Joined: Oct 2009
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I have had excellent results using a good HD heat-gun on bolts/nuts that don't want to come loose. Use a liberal amount of PT Blaster on the fastener, let it sit for awhile then turn the heat onto it.. If the lower mounting pin is attached to the stock shock axle mount, the hole is tapered like a tie rod . As it has been already mentioned, a pickle fork can help to break the mounting bolt loose. Don't beat on the threaded end with out a nut on it to protect the threads.. The attached pix is of a '36 front shock conversion, which is typical of all EFV8's.
Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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wmsteed |
12-09-2022 @ 9:55 AM
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Senior
Posts: 613
Joined: Oct 2009
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By the time a person reaches 86, you should know to work smarter not harder. I'm 88, Tylenol an CBD cream keeps me working on about seven cylinders.. Wm
Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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wmsteed |
12-09-2022 @ 10:32 AM
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Senior
Posts: 613
Joined: Oct 2009
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Attached is a pix of the front axle under my '36.. The axle is a 2" dropped '41 with '41 spindles/king pins, wish bone is a '36 with '41 spring. Axle to wish bone mounting bolt is a 41 with tube shocks shown in the pix.
Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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40fordor |
12-09-2022 @ 12:38 PM
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New Member
Posts: 116
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks to all of you (or youall as we say here). I did not realize the hole was tapered and I can probably get it out with your information. My problem is getting down on the floor and then getting back up. My car is very original except the shocks and some paint touch up on the rear fenders. I have been out of the club since selling my 36 phaeton about 2 years ago. It is good to get advice again this way. Thanks again! Don Stephens
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carcrazy |
12-09-2022 @ 4:44 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1699
Joined: Oct 2009
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Does anyone know where I can purchase two tubular shock upper mounting brackets like the one shown in the previous pictures? I need them for my current project. Thank you for any information you can provide.
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trjford8 |
12-10-2022 @ 7:16 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4242
Joined: Oct 2009
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I have a pair of those sitting in my swap meet box. Send me a PM
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