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Discussion Topic:
King Pins, Steering Linkage, etc...
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RAK402 |
12-07-2020 @ 8:42 PM
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Member
Posts: 438
Joined: Jul 2015
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I have the drums and brakes off the front of the car right now. I am trying to figure out if I am brave enough to tackle the king pins on my 1940 Ford Sedan. There is definitely some slop in them. I am also going to look to see if there slop in the steering linkage. Are there any videos that show how to take the tie rod and drag link (I think I am using the right terms) off? If they are loose, can the existing ones be re-used but re-bushed? Sorry, I am showing my ignorance here. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
This message was edited by RAK402 on 12-7-20 @ 8:43 PM
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trjford8 |
12-08-2020 @ 6:57 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4218
Joined: Oct 2009
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Give You Tube a try. It's amazing what is on there for self help.
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therunwaybehind |
12-08-2020 @ 8:49 AM
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New Member
Posts: 180
Joined: May 2019
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First remove the locking pins in the axle to free the pins to be driven out. They have nuts one end. Various measures may be tried if they are frozen by rust. For the king pins themselves, your problem is to get a big enough swing with a 10 pound sledgehammer. They pound out from below as there is a flange on the top which on new ones might a heavy sheet metal swaged on piece. Then with the new pins you need a reamer which I borrowed from The Ford garage. Be careful to line up the holes for grease zerks. The locking pins have to come out first. Tie rod and drag link ends come off nicely with a tool called a "pickle fork" which was common in the 1950's. There is more than one size. It's a bit late to suggest putting the car up on a hoist. Sloppy steering I will leave to other posts as folks have tried to argue with me on cars with crossover steering. Asking about reusing parts sends me to the x-ray, Magnaflux and xyglo embarrassment as I only used them on engine parts. Didn't I value my life? Whatever you do don't chrome plate any of these parts for appearance as it could lead to hydrogen embrittlement. The only thing I ever had rechromed is a bumper, more than once as my wife was an expert at PL without PD.
This message was edited by therunwaybehind on 12-8-20 @ 9:31 AM
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TomO |
12-08-2020 @ 9:03 AM
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Senior
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Joined: Oct 2009
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I am trying to figure out if I am brave enough to tackle the king pins on my 1940 Ford Sedan. There is definitely some slop in them. Replacing the king pins is a doable job,most of it is just brute force. You will have to find a shop that can press out the old bushings, press in the new bushings and then ream the new bushings to fit. I suggest that you find the shop before you start, so you know what to expect. I am also going to look to see if there slop in the steering linkage. Are there any videos that show how to take the tie rod and drag link (I think I am using the right terms) off? To remove the tie rods ends and drag link from the car, loosen the nut so there are just a couple of threads holding, then use a pickle fork to between the spindle and the rod end to force the taper to release. Before removing the ends, take a photo, then count the threads that are exposed and write it down. The left tie rod end has left hand threads, so it is removed by turning the end as if you were putting it on. Count the turns as you remove the ends and write it down. Install the new ends by turning them onto the rod the same number of turns as you used to remove them. Do not adjust the ends to make them fit, turn the wheel to make it fit. Tighten the nuts to draw the taper into the rods. Grease the ends and then take the car to a truck alignment shop to have the toe in set. You can do it with a ruler, but if you get it wrong, the handling and tie wear will be adversely affected. If they are loose, can the existing ones be re-used but re-bushed? Replacement ends are available and rebushing the ends is not economically feasible. I think that you did not show ignorance by asking questions before you start the job, it is a very intelligent person who asks questions and then decides how to follow the advice given.
Tom
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RAK402 |
12-08-2020 @ 9:15 AM
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Member
Posts: 438
Joined: Jul 2015
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Thank you. Are there ball joints in the end of the drag link and tie rod? Are these joints replaceable, or does the entire link/rod need to be replaced? How does one remove the links-a forked pry bar between the parts? Thank you.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
12-08-2020 @ 9:18 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1962
Joined: Oct 2009
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hi RAK402 first I believe you should join the EARLY FORD V8 CLUB, If have not already done so, has many benefits, you get a roster of all the members and a bi monthly V8 TIME;S Joining a local EARLY FORD V8 club in your area, might help. they are all over the world, there are many FORD V8 members that would step up and help you I, am sure, being you own the car, a shop manual would be one of the first things you should buy, for sure, you will need it along the way for sure HOPE this helps 37Ragtopman
This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 12-8-20 @ 9:37 AM
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woodiewagon46 |
12-08-2020 @ 10:00 AM
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Senior
Posts: 704
Joined: Nov 2012
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37RAGTOPMAN has an excellent suggestion. Joining an Early Ford V-8 Chapter near you would be helpful. You might invite the membership over on a Saturday for coffee and donuts and I'm sure most of the members will be very helpful.
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1931 Flamingo |
12-08-2020 @ 11:39 AM
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Member
Posts: 388
Joined: Nov 2019
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Where are you located?? There might be someone nearby that could offer aassistance?? Paul in CT
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RAK402 |
12-08-2020 @ 12:26 PM
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Member
Posts: 438
Joined: Jul 2015
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I will join the Early Ford Club-that is an excellent idea. I do have the Ford Service Bulletin Books. I am in Alhambra, California. Thank you all for the information!
This message was edited by RAK402 on 12-8-20 @ 2:46 PM
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supereal |
12-10-2020 @ 1:50 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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When replacing king pins. take the spindle assembly to a good machine shop, along with the new pins and bushings. Any slack in the pins will be magnified. The old "reamer" process is insufficient. We do it on our piston pin fitting machine. Whoever does it, be sure the bushings are drilled to allow the grease fittings to work.
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