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Discussion Topic:
1937 vapor lock
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mzahorik |
07-11-2020 @ 7:19 AM
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Member
Posts: 209
Joined: Nov 2009
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I've been working on my 1937 humpback and got it to run pretty good. I have found that the short block is not 37, but most likely post war. The accessories, generator, carb, etal are from 37. Anyway, the engine will start easily and run well, (although I sure the engine is rather tired). But even a short ride to the gas station will warm the engine to the point where after the engine is stopped for a few minutes, it will not start again until it cools off. I can squirt gas or starting fluid in the carb and it will not start. I believe the engine is not over heating, the carburetor seems to be OK, good performance and the fuel pump has he correct vacuum and pressure. The carburetor also has a thick gasket between the carb flange and the intake manifold. Also the starter spins the engine at the same speed when hot as it does when cold. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks Mike
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MG |
07-11-2020 @ 7:56 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1261
Joined: Nov 2009
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I suspect a faulty coil or it could be a faulty condenser as well. I would replace the coil first.
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mzahorik |
07-11-2020 @ 8:11 AM
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Member
Posts: 209
Joined: Nov 2009
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Gee... that was one of the areas I spent a lot of time on. I sent my coil to Skip Haney and he 'rebuilt' it. The distributor was re done also, with new points and condenser and set properly. Mike
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TomO |
07-11-2020 @ 8:34 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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Mike, check the spark by holding a plug wire near a head bolt. When idling it should be a blue spark and jump at least 1/2" long. You can do this as soon as the temperature gauge is above cold. An orange or short spark is a sign of poor ignition. Skip's coils have a well earned reputation, so I suspect that the condenser is leaking and overheating the coil. Try a new condenser, but your coil may have been damaged by the condenser. Another cause of coil damage is if the dwell becomes too long or leaving the key on without the engine running. Read this topic for more help: https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=17&Topic=10805&keywords=fuel%20delivery
Tom
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mzahorik |
07-11-2020 @ 8:57 AM
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Member
Posts: 209
Joined: Nov 2009
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Thanks, I'll give it a try. I have a test spark plug where the electrode is low in the insulator and no ground strap. That should have about a 1/2" gap and is constant. Where as my hand is not that steady. Is there a way I could use a standard canister coil temporarily to see if the coil is the problem? Mike
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carcrazy |
07-11-2020 @ 10:24 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1674
Joined: Oct 2009
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One way to verify if your hot restart problem is due to lack of spark, is to spray starter fluid into the air cleaner while cranking the engine. If it doesn't at least try to start, you have an ignition problem.
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mzahorik |
07-11-2020 @ 4:39 PM
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Member
Posts: 209
Joined: Nov 2009
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Boy.... am I disappointed. I had figured I was alright on the ignition. The spark is rather poor even when the engine is cold. I checked and the ballast resistor is OK. I get a little over 3 volts at the coil. But the spark will not jump 1/2", barely 1/8". So I'll have to dig into the ignition again. Thanks for the help Mike.
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51woodie |
07-11-2020 @ 7:08 PM
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Senior
Posts: 517
Joined: Jan 2017
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One thing to be aware of, is don't leave you ignition on if the engine is not running. It can/will damage the ignition component if the points are close during that time.
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37fordguy |
07-11-2020 @ 8:12 PM
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Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Feb 2020
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Just had the same problem-fuel pump rod
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carcrazy |
07-11-2020 @ 8:55 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1674
Joined: Oct 2009
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Check all of the electrical connections in the ignition primary circuit to make sure they are good and tight. I once had a loose connection on the condenser which caused the ignition to fail.
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