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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Electric Fuel pump

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Electric Fuel pump -- page: 1 2     bumper-tosser 05-22-2010 @ 7:13 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 2 Joined: Oct 2009 Am considering installing electric fuel pump on my 40 Ford that has 59AB Block & rebuilt carb. It has been converted to 12 v. Any suggestions as to make & where they can be bought for our old cars. Thanks! LuckyFordGuy 05-23-2010 @ 6:01 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 4 Joined: May 2010 You can new pump at SHOEBOXFORD parts 1 800 732 6029 should be mounted near gas tank works great trjford8 05-23-2010 @ 7:36 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4214 Joined: Oct 2009 Will you be using the electric pump as your only pump or just for priming the carb after it has sat for a time? If it's your only pump you will have to add a pressure regulator as the stock carb will only tolerate about 3 pounds of pressure. You can get electric pumps at your local Napa Auto Parts or other parts stores. Do not get a pump with a rubber diaphram. Get a rotary style pump as they will tolerate all types of gas including methanol.Here's some pump numbers: AC #EP425,Carter # P4070, Airtex E18016, Auto Zone Masterbrand E8016S. I think these are 12 volt part numbers, but double check with your parts person. supereal 05-23-2010 @ 10:37 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 We use the Airtex pump sold by C&G. It is available in both 6 and 12 volt types. You can see it on page 125 of their on-line catalog. www.cgfordparts.com It is quiet and, in our opinion, is better than any others we have tested. bumper-tosser 05-24-2010 @ 12:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 2 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks for input! 37RAGTOPMAN 05-26-2010 @ 5:19 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1958 Joined: Oct 2009 ever consider rebuilding the original fuel pump ? OLD PARTS CELLAR has some great kits,or will rebuild yours, I rebuilt my pump using their parts,and installed the copper washers for the antifeedback of the fuel so the car will start after sitting for a few months,and this was 5 years or more with no problems as of yet, my car sat from DEC to MAY, and it started with out PRIMING the carb,and NO ELECTRIC PUMP,,,, and 6 volts,, the electric pumps are good if you want to use more carbs then one, you should ad a fuel pressure regulator, like was said before, and be careful were you mount it, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN,,, KEEK ON TRUCKIN,!!!!!! steve17551 06-05-2010 @ 2:51 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 3 Joined: Jun 2010 Can someone explain the use of "copper washers to prevent feedback of fuel"? I have thae same problem with my '32 pickup, in which I run a '34 carb. supereal 06-05-2010 @ 5:16 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I don't understand carb "feedback". If the valves in the fuel pump are OK, the gas can't be siphoned from the carb, and even if so, the high float needle position will break the siphon. 37RAGTOPMAN 06-06-2010 @ 8:15 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1958 Joined: Oct 2009 The fuel feedback leak has nothinng to do with the valves in the fuel pump or carb float level, it leaks back from the flex line.IT WERE THE FLEX LINE joins the line on the firewall and the line going into the fuel pump,it does not have to be much, a very little air will keep the pump from working correctly, and making starting a long process, I had a problem for many many years,bought the copper washers from OLD PARTS CELLAR, and had no problems yet and it's been years, last time it sat for 3 months and it started without priming it cranked a few times but that is ok so it will build up a little oil pressure before it fires, Look,,,if you want to keep dumping raw gas every time you car sits for a period of time, just keep doing so, I wish to repair the problem, instead of living with it. the washers are only about $2.00 each not alot of money for what they do, I also bought a new fuel flex line and installed them together, call 781-335-8860 or www.then-now.com they are in WEYMOUTH,MASS I think the owners name is TOM, give them a try , it might work for you what do you have to loose ? also you may also have a small fuel drip from the 2 carb main jet screw plugs on the float bowl,hard to detect over a long period of time,need 2 new fiber gaskets, HAVE GOOD CARB KITS AND FUEL PUMP KITS for modern fuels,I have no ties to this business, just passing good info when I find a good place to do business with, I try staying away from the CHINA TAIWAN,DEALERS. hope this helps, KEEP ON TRUCKIN 37RAGTOPMAN This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 6-6-10 @ 8:20 AM supereal 06-06-2010 @ 10:24 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The usual reason for loss of fuel in the carb bowl is the evaporation caused by "heat soak" after shutdown. Any air leak or vapor in the fuel system can cause loss of prime in the fuel pump. That is why "vapor lock" was often cited as a problem when fuel in the line was subjected to a heat source. It was, more often, a failing ignition coil. Given the displacement of the float, the carb actually holds very little fuel, and any leakage, such as at the power valve gasket or other seals in the carb body, will cause the gas odor. Today's gas has a high amount of volatile compounds and evaporates quickly in unconfined spaces. Perhaps the "copper washers" simply provide a better seal. There doesn't seem to any other reason they would be needed.

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