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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1947 Ford Starting Problems

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Discussion Topic: 1947 Ford Starting Problems -- page: 1 2 3

Bill E Bob

01-23-2018 @ 2:09 PM

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Need some guidance with my assumptions.
I'll preface this with current situation:
1. Starter a bit slow--to be rebuilt.
2. Carb rebuilt with ct Ken kit.
3. Once started, runs fine.
4. New fuel pump.
Problem:
After sitting for extended periods, have to prime before it will start. Once primed, starts and runs fine. Starting after sitting a short time, have to hold accelerator to floor to get enough air in to start.
My "assumption":
A leak around the power valve that allows the carb. bowl to drain after engine shutdown.
IF that is the case, is there a recommended fix. If NOT, any guesses as to what the problem is?
Any assistance is Most appreciated.

cliftford

01-23-2018 @ 7:33 PM

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Pull the dipstick and see if it smells like gas. If so, the power valve gasket is probably leaking. Also check the fuel pump for excessive pressure, should be about 2.5 lbs. You could add a pressure regulator if needed. Also check float level , needle valve and float making sure it is not binding. See previous posts on this subject.

42wagon

01-24-2018 @ 3:13 AM

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The problem of having to reprime the carb after sitting for sometime seems to be a common problem since there are no check valves to keep gas from running back down the line to the tank. Others have resorted to an auxiliary electric fuel pump to reprime the system. I can't offer any advice regarding your other problem.

supereal

01-24-2018 @ 8:28 PM

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That problem is caused by the evaporation of the gas in the carb bowl from engine heat after shutdown. Many of us use an electric pump to reduce cold cranking, and a QuickStart diode circuit to compensate for low system voltage due to starter draw. As to gas running back to the tank, both the position of the float needle in the carb and the check valves make that unlikely.

TomO

01-25-2018 @ 12:25 PM

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Bill, I agree that your guess is probably correct. A leaking power valve gasket will also cause problems with idling as the mixture will be too rich.

I use the power valve gasket with the triangle cutout and tighten it hand tight then add 1/6 turn. Fill the bowl with enough gas to cover the power valve and let it sit overnight. If the gas level is lower the next day, tighten 1/6 turn more. Repeat until either the leak is fixed or you have added more than 1/2 turn. If you have to add more than 1/2 turn, the bowl seat or the power vaolve is bad and need to be repaired.

Tom

Bill E Bob

01-25-2018 @ 1:47 PM

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Thanks Tom. I pulled the carb, checked all the jets, removed the power valve and noticed the threads being a bit rough, sooo, I wrapped the threads with some teflon tape, taking care not to cover any orifices nor bind the spring and reinstalled the valve, however, did not think to do a leak test before reinstalling. Will let the unit sit for some time and see what happens. Will post results.
William(carbfounded)Brown

cliftford

01-25-2018 @ 2:33 PM

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Bill, using Teflon tape is not usually recommended for carb. work. As TomO suggests, get a good gasket to go between float body surface and the power valve. This is the area that needs to be well sealed.

Bill E Bob

01-25-2018 @ 3:28 PM

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Ok. will do.
Thanks
Bill

TomO

01-27-2018 @ 8:39 AM

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The Teflon tape will shred and plug up the passages in the carburetor. I would not run the car with Teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads. The power valve threads are not sealing threads, the gasket does all of the sealing.

White Teflon tape is made to seal water leaks and should not be used anywhere on a 32-53 Ford, Lincoln or Mercury.
Yellow Teflon tape is only for natural gas, not gasoline.

Tom

Bill E Bob

01-27-2018 @ 5:33 PM

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Removed!
Thanks

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