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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Flexible line - body to fuel pump

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Discussion Topic: Flexible line - body to fuel pump -- page: 1 2

Bob-93021

03-04-2017 @ 10:24 PM

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Working on a 47 Tudor. I just replaced the hard line from fuel pump to carb. When running I noticed a bunch of air being sucked into glass fuel pump bowl. Found that rubber line to fuel pump is rock hard and not sealing on mini fuel filter. No problem, ordered a new flex line and it fits fuel pump but does not have the correct connections to hard line on firewall. Sorry, I do not know correct terminology for fittings so I took pix of it. Is the flare fitting on the body hard line original I am trying to determine if hose is made wrong or my car was changed in the last 70 years. Can you tell me if hose is built wrong?
I tried to place 3 pix in this message but not sure what will pop up in message. Thanks - Bob

Bob-93021

03-04-2017 @ 10:27 PM

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Looks like I can only attach 1 pix per message? Last message showed end of rubber hose at body end. This message has pix of hard line on firewall. Thanks - Bob

Bob-93021

03-04-2017 @ 10:56 PM

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Looks like I can only attach 1 pix per message? Last message showed end of rubber hose at body end. This message has pix of hard line on firewall. Thanks - Bob

42wagon

03-05-2017 @ 4:15 AM

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Bob
Looks like some one changed your hard fuel line at some point in the past. Ford used a straight piece of pipe with brass ferrule that slipped on the end of the pipe and then was crimped tight when the pipe was inserted in the mating fitting and tightened with a wrench. Your new hose appears to be correct for the Ford fittings.
42 wagon

len47merc

03-05-2017 @ 5:13 AM

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Bob-93021 - if after you finish the fuel line repair you still see air entering the bowl and/or fuel leaks back into the fuel cell after being idled for a day or three, and/or the car 'dives' (i.e., 'starving' for fuel) when you push the gas down to increase speed at higher rpms (~>2,000), recommend you remove the glass bowl and seal from the fuel pump while you are at it, clean and re-seat the bowl and firmly re-tighten. You could be thorough and do it now but then you'll have multiple variables & changes you've made and you cannot be sure which problem fix solved the issue, assuming one or the other does.

Amazing how a gas line &/or fuel pump bowl seal can leak air/vacuum and not leak fuel but I found the bowl seal was leaking vacuum/air on a new fuel pump on my '47 even after I'd snugged it prior to install. Drove me crazy trying to find the issue until quick advice from this Forum directed me to this specific root cause.

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 3-5-17 @ 5:16 AM

ken ct.

03-05-2017 @ 6:24 AM

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That could be fixed with a inverted flare fitting at the FP inlet to the flare type fitting on the main line end. I have them if you need one and I would install a new cork gasket at the glass bowl. Do not use a rubber one only CORK. ken ct. 1-203-260-9780 cell

TomO

03-05-2017 @ 8:43 AM

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Only hand tighten the nut under the sediment bowl. Using pliers could warp the bowl mounting surface and you will not get a seal no matter what gasket you use. I like to use a rubberized cork gasket for the sediment bowl. You can check with your local NAPA outlet to see if they have the correct size, other than that you will have to make your own.

Use a mini tubing cutter to remove the flare, fit the line into the flex line with the ferrule. Tighten the line to crimp the ferrule and then open the connection and solder the ferrule to the line. This will give you a good seal.

Tom

Bob-93021

03-05-2017 @ 11:48 AM

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Guys, this is great info. Ok, PO modified hard line using a flare rather than straight fitting with the compression ring. Thanks for confirming that the new flex line is correct. I have had issues on re-pops not being correct so that is one of the things that I needed to solve. So all I need to do is cut the end of hard line and install compression ring and fitting which I have. See pix. If possible I want to keep car as original as possible.
Yesterday I went thru my stash of small brass I did find the parts to convert the hard line with incorrect flare to new flex line. I will not be using them but thought I would include them in pix.
As far as fuel pump goes I am thinking the new line will fix the air bubbles that I was seeing in pump bowl. I will double check for cork gasket. Thanks - Bob

ken ct.

03-05-2017 @ 1:00 PM

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Bob , all you need to do cut off the flare on the main line and use the fitting you show in the upper right hand pic and a brass band or ring like ahead of the nut to complete. Rings can be gotten in any hardware store plumbing dept. 1/4" size. and your good to go. I can send you a cork gasket if you cant find one correct size. ken ct.

Bob-93021

03-05-2017 @ 7:33 PM

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Yes, I am planning to use a mini tubing cutter and install the correct nut and ferrule to bring it back to "as built". I wont be using the extra hardware that I showed on previous post. I found an interesting chart at Bob Drake site that also shows this. I am suspecting that someone in the past could only get the 51-53 flex line so they just flared the hard line? TomO, thanks for the tip on going to NAPA for the rubberized cork gasket. I sometime forget to check with them instead of ordering from across the country. I appreciate the help and comments from all of you - Bob

This message was edited by Bob-93021 on 3-5-17 @ 7:37 PM

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