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EFV-8 Club Forum / Light Commercial Truck Discussion / Next Carburetor

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Next Carburetor

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MrHenderson
10-16-2024 @ 7:38 AM
Member
Posts: 19
Joined: Jul 2024
          
I bought a Stromberg 97 carb long ago awaiting the day I would hear the engine again. With help from some of you, after 47 years, it was Monday (10/14/24). My 97 had a cast, sealed, vertical sump directly under the accelerator pump, rather than the ones I see with an incline and a cap. After it cooled I saw a moist area on the intake manifold and pulled the carb off to tighten something. There was a visible line on the bottom of the sump. Maybe a mold line I thought. So I flicked it with my fingernail. The whole bottom of the sump fell off in several small pieces.
I have other carbs just not another 97. I see that 59A-9510A is a replacement for practically "ALL". One of the ones on the shelf has got to be a replacement.
I like any ones thoughts as well as a means of identifying an actual 59A-9510A.
Three are Ford Script. Please let it be one of them!
Thanks



carcrazy
10-16-2024 @ 10:02 AM
Senior
Posts: 1699
Joined: Oct 2009
          
What year Ford engine will you be using this carburetor on? If it is a 1949 Passenger Car (1948 Truck) or later, be sure to use a carburetor with a venturi vacuum tap to provide a vacuum signal to the distributor. If you use an earlier carburetor without a venturi vacuum tap on the later engine, with stock distributor, your distributor will have no spark advance other than the initial advance set when the engine is tuned up.

MrHenderson
10-17-2024 @ 11:30 AM
Member
Posts: 19
Joined: Jul 2024
          
Thanks for your suggestion. I should have referenced the vehicle. 1936
I could not use the 59A Ford carburetor after all it also dripped (even worse), even though it runs the engine.
Today I cleaned up the Holley 59A and it seems to hold its fuel. The engine starts easily and runs but not smoothly. While I was in Houston the Regional group recommended the rebuilder I used back in '77.
Vacuum is only 10-12". Could I be dealing with break in conditions? As of yet there is no cooling so
1 minute at a time is all I've been allowing.
I have also forgotten how to determine an idle speed.


carcrazy
10-17-2024 @ 1:31 PM
Senior
Posts: 1699
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Unless your engine is running at a high altitude location, the idling intake manifold vacuum should be about 19 inches of mercury. Check the intake manifold and carburetor for vacuum leaks. Your windshield wiper vacuum motor could be leaking.

MrHenderson
10-18-2024 @ 2:27 PM
Member
Posts: 19
Joined: Jul 2024
          
My '36 PU is just an engine on the chassis right now. I really doubt that there are any vacuum leaks, but I am still hoping to find some cause for the low vacuum.
When I was a kid I timed the distributor by getting Cyl#1 to TDC compression. (old green V8 book)
Lower the distributor timing plate on the side and slowly raising it until the points popped a spark.
I can't make that happen now. I have to be one side or the other of TDC. This (along with easy start and rough run) leads me fear the cam gear is one tooth off. (If so it was professionally done)
Can I confirm or eliminate that possibility before opening her up?
I did go through the distributor in June. Mainly I was correcting what some 17y.o. did. Minor, but obvious to me. On the other hand he had it running for 7 yrs.

carcrazy
10-18-2024 @ 2:57 PM
Senior
Posts: 1699
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Does the vacuum seem to be even as indicated by a the vacuum gauge needle being relatively steady?

You might want to check the compression in each cylinder to see if you have a stuck valve or other conditions causing one or more cylinders to be weaker than the others. Ideally you would like to see about 100 PSI in each cylinder at cranking speed with no more than about 15% difference between cylinders.

MrHenderson
10-20-2024 @ 1:50 PM
Member
Posts: 19
Joined: Jul 2024
          
The current status on my '36 is this. Engine was rebuilt ins '77, but never run until recently.
Starts easily but runs very rough. I am not able to perform the test in the Ford V8 manual which lets you hear the points POP as the timing plate is raised. I use to be able to do this simple setting. So I did the flywheel test which is supposed to result in "approx 3" teeth difference. I counted 4+.
I reset the #1TDC comp, opened the timing cover and found the crankshaft gear timing mark on a tooth pointing up as I expected. The camshaft mark and the camshaft gear mark between teeth are inline and are also up. And the distributor tang slot is @ 10 & 4 (generally). May be able to upload a pic tomorrow. It doesn't look or seem right to me.
Am I missing something?




40 Coupe
10-23-2024 @ 5:41 AM
Senior
Posts: 1697
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The small loge 97, made in South Bend, is the Carb that was used on your engine. You have lost me on your description of the Carb. incline and cap?? The main body has a Float Bowl, not a sump. Suggest post a photo of the area in question. If the bottom of the float bowl fell off, get another main body and correct, don't use the 59 Carb. Look at the Stromberg web site, they sell nearly all the original replacement parts and gaskets. Their Technician is Max Musgrove. He can supply a main body or repair your Carb.or supply the parts you need. It is best to text Max

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