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Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1932 Ford Discussion / new guy with lots of questions

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CharlieStephens
08-06-2010 @ 2:15 PM
Senior
Posts: 888
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Bart,

First I suggest you start a new thread with a title that will attract people to your specific question. Otherwise you are hidden at the bottom of an old thread that most people have already read.

I posted the same question on HAMB. You might want to check out the responses.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=494859&highlight=stephens

Compare the VIN (or serial number) on the car with the paperwork for the car. You will want to know where this number is located when people come to see the car. A mismatch can kill a sale plus will drag everything out if it is not started early.

Get many good digital photos. You will need to send them to people asking questions. Show exterior all views, engine compartment, upholstery, and as many other as need to show car completely. Include defects and problem areas.

If we are talking about selling a high dollar car (which I define as over $20K based on values shown in “The Old Cars Price Guide” and yours probably qualifies but I didn’t look it up) spend the money and hire a professional appraiser. Talk to the members of local clubs to find an appraiser. Get a professional appraiser and not someone with an interest in buying the car. As a check bounce this number off of some members of a local club. Check for sale ads for similar cars. Remember that low mileage original cars carry a premium. At this time you should have an idea about what you can sell the car for.

Probably the best place for national advertising is Hemming’s Motor news (available at Barnes & Noble). Remember when advertising that it may not be worth the money to get national exposure since most cars will sell within a couple of hundred miles.

Go to the national club web sites and find the local clubs. The national web site for early V8 Fords is where you are currently posting (earlyfordv8.org).

Start by sending an ad (through the people recommended above to avoid having to pay for the ad) to the national club for inclusion in their monthly magazine and then write a letter, call and/or attend local club meetings with pictures. Ask if they would place an ad in their monthly newsletter. If the club is smart they will do this at no cost as a service to their members. If they want more than a token amount for the ad just skip their club and tell them why. Unless you car is very unusual it will probably sell to someone within a couple of hundred miles. Contact all of the clubs within this radius. Remember if you contact the clubs by email to include photos with your email as there is a good chance that someone will forward you email to a general distribution list for the club. You should plan on a couple of months for information to work its way through the system. Newsletters have cut off dates and your request may go through a couple of people before it finally gets to the editor of the newsletter. Advertise the cars with a best offer at the end of the two month period (as determined by the longest publishing time) and reserve the right to reject any or all offers. Stagger submitting your ads so they are all published about the same time. Avoid the temptation to sell to the first offer. If things don’t sell, and it is possible, wait a year and try again.

There are several web sites that have classified sections (be sure your vehicle ends up in the right section). Ads are usually free but donations cheerfully accepted. Place these ads within a couple of weeks before the closing dates in the club newsletters. These sites are:

Fordbarn.com (separate sections for T, A, V8)

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/ (T, A, V8 plus other makes)

Good Luck,
Charlie Stephens



Bart
08-06-2010 @ 1:38 PM
Member
Posts: 15
Joined: Aug 2010
          
I need some help with a car as well. I have a 1936 Ford Tudor Deluxe that I would like to sell. I just don't know a good price to ask. It was restored by my father and is a three time Deerborn winner. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thank you.

myfordgirl
07-06-2010 @ 4:22 PM
Member
Posts: 6
Joined: Jun 2010
          
Thanks for the advice guys. I really would like a new project (even though I have a few going already)

I think I will look longer and not work harder than I should. I really like the idea of a kit car with no rust to deal with

Rich


CharlieStephens
07-06-2010 @ 12:44 PM
Senior
Posts: 888
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Rich,

The common admonition is "don't pay too much for it". I would like to say "don't pay too little for it". Looking at your pictures I would find another vehicle and pay a little more, you will be better off in the long run.

Charlie Stephens

3w2
07-05-2010 @ 10:19 PM
Senior
Posts: 835
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Despite what the sign in the window states, this is not a '32 Ford truck, but rather a '34. You're right, it is really rough, perhaps beyond saving.

Dave

myfordgirl
07-05-2010 @ 7:39 PM
Member
Posts: 6
Joined: Jun 2010
          
I don't know how to post more than 1 pic at a time.
Sorry.

myfordgirl
07-05-2010 @ 7:37 PM
Member
Posts: 6
Joined: Jun 2010
          
I have attached pictures as I promised. There are 2 trucks. I have poste mostly pics of the larger 8 cylinder. I am not sure if the smaller 4 cylinder is salavagable.

Brace yourself...these trucks are rough...

1932BB
07-02-2010 @ 6:36 AM
New Member
Posts: 104
Joined: Oct 2009
          
If this truck has an original V8, Model 18 engine it is extremely rare as most '32 pickups were 4 cyl Model B's. The cabs, and all the sheet metal, was the same for the big trucks, Model BB. The '32 to '34 cabs tended to rust badly on the door bottoms and the bottom of the cab back panel both of which can be very time consuming and expensive to restore. Fenders are reproduced as are frames. If this truck spent many years outside, did it have a radiator cap? Does it have an air cleaner? If not, rain water may have gotten into the engine and made it into junk. I admire your willingness to tackle tough projects, and (hopefully) save another old Ford, but due to scarcity of parts for this model, perhaps you would be better off with something more common such as a Model A. Good luck!

myfordgirl
07-02-2010 @ 4:53 AM
Member
Posts: 6
Joined: Jun 2010
          
Charlie,
I really appreciate the advice. I am going back there today. My restored 53 Chevy is in the parade and a show up there.

I will post pics when I return and try to figure out how to enable PMs.

I am looking for a challenge. I rebuilt my 53 from a rotted out hulk, actually patching fenders that most folks would have scr*pped.

I do agree building it on paper is wise. I figured if I came here you guys could advise me on what I need to do that. What frames and cabs can be interchaged with some modifications, etc.

In the mean time I have attached a link to my current work. Caution...it a Chevy...so don't be offended.;-)

http://rides.webshots.com/album/577941078yrYJgb



CharlieStephens
07-01-2010 @ 1:42 PM
Senior
Posts: 888
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Rich,

I tried to send you a private message but your private messaging has been disabled. I am concerned from the wording in your post that you are very new to the Model B world and could use some serious help. I suggest you post some pictures or PM them directly to a couple of people for comments. The idea about using a different frame will give you many more problems than it will solve. What do you really hope to end up with in the end, a restoration or a street rod? I strongly suggest you build the car on paper and find what it will cost before you put any money into it.

Charlie Stephens

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