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Discussion Topic:
New '38 Owner
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juergen |
07-24-2016 @ 8:45 AM
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Member
Posts: 258
Joined: Jan 2010
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Thanks for the kind words. You are right if you use the old fashioned air cleaners where the tops fit over the sides with louvers to let in the air. These are highly restrictive. Go for the ones where the paper air filter is visible (top and bottom only are covered). These are no more restrictive than the Ford type where the air has to turn back up and then down (passing through a wire mesh) into the carburetor.
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ford38v8 |
07-24-2016 @ 12:05 AM
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Senior
Posts: 2764
Joined: Oct 2009
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Juergen, your advice is certainly well meaning, as you make a couple of valid points, however, fitting a modern air filter to a flathead is not as simple as it may seem, due to air restriction from said filter leaning out the fuel/air mixture. It can be done, but requires some decent engineering to accomplish, and the results are not that impressive anyway. By the way, oil bath cleaners were available, but not standard issue on the early Fords sold to city folk. As for the oil filtration system, it was an option also, and did a pretty fair job, given that the oil of the old days didn't suspend particles as modern oil does, those impurities settling out becoming sludge rather than being pumped through the system again and again. I read somewhere that the bypass filtration system ran through a very high percentage of the oil in less than a half hour of driving, somewhere in the mid 90% range as I recall. Not adequate for modern engines with modern oil, but not bad for the old Fords with loose tolerances.
Alan
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juergen |
07-23-2016 @ 10:53 AM
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Member
Posts: 258
Joined: Jan 2010
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Compared to modern cars, the flathead was deficient in not having a full flow oil system or a decent air filter system. So changing oil more often is a good practice. The oil bath air cleaner lets in a lot of dirt. So, when you drive and not when you show a car, I would recommend a modern air filter , dry or wet, to keep most of the particles out of your cylinders.
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Dream38v8 |
07-23-2016 @ 5:29 AM
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New Member
Posts: 178
Joined: May 2016
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Great advice. Thank you.
Ray
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fordv8j |
07-21-2016 @ 11:51 AM
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New Member
Posts: 176
Joined: Jan 2015
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We have two 38's a deluxe coupe we have been driving since 1964,I use 30wt Pennzoil in it.finished our conv.in 2009,been using 10w-30 Castrol in it,I always add a bottle of S.T.P,and change oil every 500 miles,I never add anything to the gas
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pauls39coupe |
07-21-2016 @ 10:47 AM
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Member
Posts: 205
Joined: Jul 2014
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Hi Ray, Using lead additive is pretty muchly money down the rat hole. Ford used hardened valve seats back then and good quality valves. You may experience problems with E10 fuel as the ethanol will attack the original fuel flex line and the fuel pump internals. There are modern replacements for these parts which are compatible with current gasoline. In some area "recreational" gas is available for sale (boats etc), or some guys use 100LL AV gas, both of which remain stable for long periods of time. The downside is the cost, and availability. How much are you going to drive, and how much time will the car sit idle. Most guys use a product like Stable or Lucas gas treatment before storing the car for the winter, or just make that last tank real 100% gasoline, hang the cost. There are probably as many choices in oil as there are V-8 owners. My personal choice has been Valvoline Racing 20-50 or straight 30w for my 1939. It has a higher level of ZZDP than standard oil which is supposed to give better wear protection. A lot of flathead guys like Rotell T oil, the choice is yours. Whatever you use change it often. These early cars did not have oil filters, and with limited use it is best to change the oil every 1000 mile or twice per year which ever comes first. Enjoy your Ford V-8.
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Dream38v8 |
07-21-2016 @ 9:42 AM
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New Member
Posts: 178
Joined: May 2016
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As a new owner of a Flathead I have a few basic questions: - do you use a lead additive with 87 /89 octane gas - what weight oil (non detergent or detergent)
Ray
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