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Discussion Topic:
Painting The Engine
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carpguy |
03-26-2010 @ 6:27 AM
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Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Oct 2009
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Morning All, I'm getting my engine back from the shop this A.M and need some advice on painting it. Should I paint all the pieces seprate or put some stuff togeather first? I guess I'm asking "Whats the right way" If I'm correct, all cast iron parts are green and other metals black? What about the boltheads? Thank You Gary Moscow, Idaho
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kubes40 |
03-26-2010 @ 7:40 AM
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Senior
Posts: 3407
Joined: Oct 2009
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The engine block, cylinder heads and valve chamber cover were painted prior to machining. Thus, there should be no paint on ANY machined surface. Water pumps (pulleys and bodies) were painted prior to assembly so the shaft (end) remains bare. There should be no paint on ANY of the gaskets either. The cylinder head studs were raven black in most cases. The cylinder head nuts are cadmium. Hope this helps. Mike Kubarth
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dso72 |
03-26-2010 @ 8:40 AM
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Member
Posts: 37
Joined: Oct 2009
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Was the oil pan painted separately? Is so. what finish would the bolts be or the drain plug? Regarding water pumps, should the grease fitting be natural (brass) for a 1935? Is there any reference material available to help us with detailing questions? Thanks for all the help. This is a fantastic site for us new to the early v8 hobby.
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Stroker |
03-26-2010 @ 9:22 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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This photo was sent to me by a fellow EV8 member in New York. It has helped clarify a number of questions.
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carpguy |
03-26-2010 @ 9:38 AM
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Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Oct 2009
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Morning, Thank you for the help. In the picture it looks like the waterpump pulleys where left bare? The carb manifold in the picture is not painted but it's aluminum correct? Since my manifold is cast iron do I paint the boltheads?Thanks Gary Moscow, Idaho
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kubes40 |
03-26-2010 @ 10:34 AM
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Senior
Posts: 3407
Joined: Oct 2009
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As I didn't know what year you were working on I couldn't have guessed if you had an aluminum valve chamber cover (some refer to as the intake manifold). Anyway, if you get the correct aluminum cover,I would suggest you glass bead blast the cover. It will appears as new. NOT sand, but glass bead. Leave it 'natural' in finish. If you choose to keep the later cast iron cover, it was painted prior to machining. The bolts are cadmium plated. The oil pan was gloss black, the bolts and lock washers holding it to the block, raven black. The water pump pulleys were (originally) painted. Roy Nacewicz is an excellent source for all of the correct type fasteners with of course the correct plating. This club does offer a nice book as a reference to 35 / 36 restoration standards. I might suggest you purchase it. Well worth the cost.
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supereal |
03-26-2010 @ 12:17 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Our glass bead cabinet leaves soft metal with a matte finish, so if you want something with more gloss, A chemical stripper followed by buffing would be preferable.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
03-26-2010 @ 5:07 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1965
Joined: Oct 2009
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The Aluminum intake,When it was made and came out of the mold it has a smooth surface,like a skin on it, once you glassbead it will look great, but is harder to keep clean,everybody makes this mistake, if it was never blasted, try a chemical cleaner, the NCRS Corvette club, had a process to clean thier valve covers, and aluminum intakes, for show, maybe a good scrubbing and soaking with dishwaser soap might work, ever see a copper pan come out of the dishwaher, it make the copper clean as a whistle just my 2 cents 37RAGTOPMAN
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carguy |
03-27-2010 @ 6:23 AM
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New Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Oct 2009
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So I'm hearing that I can put my '34 aluminum intake manifold and heads in the dishwasher? Sorry dear . . .
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Grant |
03-31-2010 @ 6:27 AM
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Senior
Posts: 537
Joined: Oct 2009
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With respect to cleaning cast aluminum intake manifolds, we have had excellent results using immersion in Coca Cola (the real thing, not cheaper cola imitations). I pull the manifold up out of the Coke once every 24 hours. Grease deposits dry up, and can then be taken off carefully with a small flat blade screwdriver or a dental pick. This takes a lot longer than bead blasting.....probably a week or so of spending an hour each evening, but the results are well worth the time and trouble. The original sheen turns out nicely preserved with a pretty patina that doesn't look new or blasted.
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